"[ low rumbling ]" "What's wrong ?" "I'm just tired, I guess." "[ train whistles ]" "Have you traveled far ?" "Yeah." "You're a surfer, aren't you ?" "Yeah, I'm a surfer." "I always wanted to try that, but you know, I just" "It seems like it would be so much fun, you know ?" "So healthy." "Yeah, it can be." " Depends." " On what ?" "On whether or not you make it your whole life." "Have you ?" "I guess." "What would you say if I told you that there's a wave out there," "And by the time it hits this little island off of mexico..." "It's gonna be massive ?" "And all I can think about is riding it." "♪♪ [ vocalists, african dialect ]" "[ camera clicks ]" "So you want to surf ?" "And the waves near the town where you live aren't half bad." "And you start to improve." "And then you hear about this wave..." "In a faraway country..." "With a name you can't even pronounce." "What then ?" "How far are you willing to go ?" "What sacrifice are you willing to make ?" "How good do you really want to be ?" "[ camera clicks, typewriter clatters ]" "♪♪ [ continues ]" "Mm." "Ow." "Ow !" "Ouch." "Man, this hurts." "[ camera clicks, typewriter clatters ]" "[ boy ] aw, mickey." "You promised." "Mm." "So beautiful." "Mickey." "So beautiful." "We're dead." "We are dead." "It's cool, don't worry about it." "I'm just teaching her english." "[ no dialogue ] [ camel groaning ] [ camera clicks, typewriter clatters ]" "I've been watching him ride for four days now." "Having chronicled surfing all my life, I'm convinced..." "That he's one of those rare athletes..." "Whose spirit is as great as their talent." "I'm also convinced that he's preparing himself for something extraordinary," "And if I can do anything to help him, I will." "Hey !" "Mickey's at it again." "He promised." "Says he's teaching her english or something." "He's teaching her something." "Ladies first." " [ repeating ] ladies first." "How are you ?" "How are you ?" "I am fine." "I am fine." "Your eyes are very beautiful." "Your eyes very beautiful." "And you're so very handsome." "You're so very handsome." "And so strong." " And so strong." "Very good." " Very good." "Now, if you really want to learn english..." " ♪♪ [ "you don't know me" ] - you listen to country music." "They tell it like it is." "[ repeating lyrics ] you give your hand to me." "You give your hand to me." "And then you say hello." " You say hello." "♪ and I can hardly speak ♪" "♪ my heart is beating so ♪" "♪ and anyone could tell ♪" "♪ you think you know me well ♪" "♪ but you don't know me ♪ [ siren wailing ] [ man speaking french over loudspeaker ] [ siren, loudspeaker continuing ]" "♪ and longs to kiss your lips ♪" "♪ and longs to hold you tight ♪♪" "Sounds like your daddy's here." "Sounds like your daddy's here." "Yep." " Yep." "[ wild chattering ]" "I'm really sorry, sir, but I was just teaching her english." "[ camera clicks ]" "♪♪ [ bluesy jazz ]" "There's a lot of girls out there, mickey." "That's my point exactly." "You gotta pick the right one." "You gotta make 'em come to you." "Otherwise, it's like marlin fishing." " What ?" " Marlin fishing, man." "You see a beautiful woman." "She's like a big game fish." "If you really want her, you're gonna need a boat, bait, tackle, gasoline." "You gotta get out on the high seas." "And if you get a hookup-- if you get a hookup" "You gotta drag it all the way back to the boat." "But I have a question for ya:" "At that point, who's tired ?" " Who, you ?" " No, goddamn it, the both of ya !" "Beautiful women, you know what I say to them ?" "I say," ""you may be a symphony, baby." "But I believe in song."" " I-I don't get it." "You get it ?" " Sometimes." "You all right ?" "You gonna be all right ?" "Yeah, I'm fine." " ♪♪ [ blues, indistinct ] - [ happy chattering ]" "Hey, english !" "Over here." "English." "No tv, you understand me ?" "No shopping malls." "No tour buses." "You hear me, english ?" "No fast foods." "Leave us alone !" "♪ because the nighttime ♪ ♪ night and day ♪" "♪ ah, is the right time ♪ ♪ night and day ♪" "♪ to be with the one you love ♪ ♪ night and day ♪♪ [ chattering in french ]" "[ speaking french ]" "Hey, are they gonna execute us ?" "I wasn't even doin' anything !" "Oh, man." "I'm gonna have a heart attack." "I'm full on gonna have a heart attack !" "Chin up, kid." "High tide raises all ships." "[ keoni ] five more hours and we would have been out of here." "Now we got nothin' !" "[ mickey ] what are you talkin' about ?" "We got till ten." "[ keoni ] we're never gonna make that plane." "The harbor's only a mile away." "We're in jail, mickey." "This ain't about bein' caged, man." "I've seen birds in cages, and you ain't no bird." "All right ?" "Do you know that birds are the direct descendants of dinosaurs ?" "They used to have teeth and shit." "Them guys was fast, even the girl ones." "You know what "dinosaur" means ?" "It's greek, man." "It means, "terrible lizard." think about that." "[ tires squealing, motor racing ]" "[ keoni ] hey !" "That's my board !" "What'll we do ?" "Run like hell !" "Come on, little girls, don't run home in your underwear !" "Come back here !" "I sense angels at work here, boys." "There's that taxi again !" "[ horn beeping ]" "Look out !" "Hey !" "[ continuing, indistinct ]" "Charge !" "[ keoni ] hey, come on !" "Pull me up !" " [ brakes squealing ] - [ screaming ]" "[ mickey ] look at that stinkin' boat." "It's the most beautiful thing I've ever seen." "It's an epiphany." "Know what an epiphany is ?" "[ keoni ] not now, mickey." "Can't you see ?" "We're in trouble !" "No tv !" "No diet colas !" "No shopping malls !" "Do you hear me, cue ball ?" "[ keoni ] hey !" "Hands off !" "I said, leave our women alone !" "[ gulping, gasping ]" "Come on, get over here !" "This thing's gonna take off !" "[ man ] every sport has its own mythology." "Its legends:" "Joe louis, muhammad ali," "Over here." "Come on in !" "Mickey mantle, babe ruth," "Michael jordan." "Faces you see on television." "Surfing has its own mythology too." "Most of it based on what you never see." "Hang on, mickey." "Hang in there, buddy." "[ man ] stories of great rides, told over and over again..." "Of unimaginable waves in obscure, faraway places." "These are the people who seek these moments out," "Traveling like spirits from country to country." " [ keoni ] you okay ?" "Good, get in." " [ mickey ] I'm okay." "[ airplane engine revving ]" "♪ ain't no rain or sunshine ♪" "♪ I'm glory bound get your hands up now ♪" "♪ get glory bound get your hands on now ♪" "♪ get glory bound get your hands on now ♪" "♪ a song could do it a song could do it, do it ♪" "♪ glory bound get your hands up now ♪" "♪ ain't no foolin' ain't no foolin' come on around ♪" "♪ ain't no foolin ain't no foolin' come on around ♪" "♪ get your hands up now singing' ♪ [ man on megaphone, indistinct ]" "That son of a bitch." "I'll tell you about that son of a bitch." "Before enlightenment, chop wood, carry water." "After enlightenment, chop wood, carry water." "Kissed by nature." "Not a bad guy to have around..." "When your back's up against a wall, either." "I like you, mickey." "You're a good lad." "Well, thank you, captain." "That's a very nice thing of you to say." "Straight flush." "I sure hope this doesn't screw things up between us." "[ raucous laughing ]" "♪ glory bound get your hands on now ♪" " Hey, keoni !" "Happy birthday." " Thanks." "Ah, it's a good life." "♪ gettin' glory bound get your hands on now ♪" "♪ song could do it a song could do it, do it ♪" "♪ glory bound get your hands up now ♪" "♪ ain't no foolin' ain't no foolin' come on around ♪ [ electric drill whirring ]" "This isn't just a skateboard ramp, all right ?" "We-- we build temples to adrenaline." "This is like chinese architecture, you know ?" "'cause they didn't build to the size of the human body." "They built temples to the size of the human spirit." "♪ I add some pain I became your satellite ♪" "♪ got to get it all right ♪" "♪ psyched, I know a man called sylvester ♪" "♪ have to wear a bulletproof vest, y'all ♪" "♪ no kinda way no kinda way at all ♪" "♪ music myth children learn ♪" "♪ ride on ♪ ♪ ride on ♪" "♪ into the foam ♪ ♪ into the foam ♪" "♪ ride on into the foam ♪ ♪ hey ♪" "♪ [ continues, indistinct ]" "♪ ride on ♪♪" "You know where waves come from ?" "Imagine you're a giant..." "Standing in the middle of the bay of alaska." "You drop a boulder in the water." "And the rings fan out." "The swells keep going until something gets in their way:" "An island, a continent," "A reef, something that forces them to peak..." "And break..." "And roll." "That make sense to you ?" "Probably not." "If you understood what I was saying, I probably wouldn't be saying it." "Say a big swell hits Hawaii," "And you ride one of those huge waves there." "The wave folds back together on the other side of the island," "And back out across the ocean" "Like these rings-- to wherever it needs to go." "Then all you would need to do to ride it again..." "Is find out where it's headed next" "To beat it there..." "However you can." "It's what I've been doing." "I'm trying to figure it out." "Why is it, when the waves are just right," "When it's big enough and hollow enough," "And I'm inside of it," "Everything-- whatever I'm doing," "Why I'm doin' it" "In that moment it all makes sense ?" "Most everybody wants something else from it." "I'm afraid if I ask for more, it'll all disappear." "Hey, I'd be careful if I were you." "I know you're the captain's daughter and all." "We just got into a bunch of trouble because of a woman." " Scared me to death." " You're very young." "Yeah." "I am young." "Where's your home ?" "I live with my friends." "Wherever the surf's good." "You know mickey ?" "He used to be number two in the world." "Pro tour and everything." "Could have been number one, but" "I don't know." "See him ?" "He's the best in the world." "That's what mickey says." "That's what everybody says." "Won't compete on the tour, though." "Don't know why." "Guess he doesn't like hotel rooms or something like that." "But..." "He's a hot surfer." "I guess that's all that matters." "When I'm old enough, I'm going on that tour..." "And cashing in, making a million bucks..." "And buying' my mom a house and fixin' her teeth." "'cause everybody's got to have beautiful teeth." "Even moms." "Do you know that salt water..." "Is the most closely related to human blood ?" "And you know what that reminds me of ?" "Our own essence, gentlemen." "♪♪ [ vocalists, african dialect ]" "Lookin' sharp." "Lookin' sharp." "♪♪ [ continues ]" "♪♪ [ fades, ends ]" "She wants to go with ya." "When my wife was alive," "We found her on the streets of rio as a child." "I brought her on board to save her life." "She recognizes herself in ya." "Same eyes." "Same heart." "Without lies." "Takin' only what you need." "Givin' only what you can." "She feels safe with ya," "Although she knows she'll never stay with ya forever." "[ loud cheering ]" "[ shouting, jeering ]" "Kick his ass !" "Go to him, go to him." "[ keoni ] no, no." "Go on, mickey." "Take this hippie." "Whaddya mean ?" "I got him right where I want him !" "I got this fuckin' guy right where I want him." " Kick his ass !" " [ grunts ]" "[ camera clicking ] [ keoni ] four and 0, four and 0." "Come on !" "How much we bet ?" " All of it." "You lose, we don't eat." "I'm gonna kick your butt." "A little hot sauce'll fix this guy." "The old caliente." "Come on, mickey." "Now !" "You enjoying your visit to bali ?" "Jet lag's got me down a bit, but I'll get used to it." "[ grunting ]" "♪♪ [ blues ] [ camera clicking ]" "♪ baby, please ♪" "♪ baby, please set a day ♪" "♪ baby, please ♪" "♪ baby, please set a day ♪" "♪ please don't say tomorrow ♪" "Soon as my friends and I get it together..." "And all these people move out of the way, we're gonna move the car." "[ camera clicks, typewriter clatters ]" "Yeah, if I understood a word you said, it would be helpful, but obviously I don't." "Wyatt, my man !" "Hey, nice to see you, man." "How you been ?" "[ speaking native language ] no problem." "[ speaking native language ] these guys are friends of mine." "Mab." " Hey, domo, man." "How's it, man ?" " Hey !" "Good to see ya." "What's happening, rush ?" "[ camera clicks, typewriter clatters ]" "Rush !" "Brian !" "Unreal, man." "Good to see ya." "Long time." "Wow." "[ typewriter clattering ]" "♪ baby, please ♪ [ brian ] gotta get back in shape." "It's been a long summer." "♪ baby, please set a day ♪♪" " I believe these belong to you." " Keep them." "You never know when you might need them." "Who are you ?" " Just a fan." "[ laughs ]" "What's up, darrick ?" "I was hoping I'd get here in time to train with you guys." "[ wyatt ] there are only a handful of surfers in the world..." "With the courage and skill to ride really big waves." "And here, in a marketplace in bali," "On the other side of the world," "He was about to become one of them." "[ man's voice ] some mornings, when I wake up," "Before my first cup of coffee, i look in the mirror." "I think to myself, is today the last day I'm gonna be alive ?" "'cause you never know when you're gonna go." "When you come out of that wave, if something goes wrong," "The jet ski is your only salvation." "Jet skis, tow ropes." "You guys got equipment on the brain." "I'm comin' to Hawaii this winter, and I'm gonna paddle..." "Into one of those 40-foot sons of bitches with my bare hands." "What are you talking about, mickey ?" "There's no way you can paddle in." "It's just too big." " It's just a wave, man." " It's too fast." " That is horseshit !" "It's just a wave." " You can't paddle 35 m.P.H." "It's just a wave, man." "A big mother of a wave, yes." "But it's just a wave !" "You gotta be in the right place at the right time !" "Dream on." "Then why don't you tow me in ?" "You, no problem." "For him ?" "No way." " And just why the hell not ?" " [ keoni ] because, Mickey, you're crazy." " Everybody knows that." " Well, thank you, keoni." "I love you too." "But I will tell you three guys one thing." "For us, the partying's over." "Starting tomorrow, we train all day, every day." "That's reality." "♪ all around the world ♪" "Two..." "Three !" "♪ no one understands me no one knows what I'm tryin' to say ♪" "♪ everywhere I go no one understands me ♪" "♪ they look at me when I talk to them ♪" "♪ and they scratch their heads ♪" "♪ they go what's he tryin' to say ♪" "♪ oh, but you you speak my language ♪" "♪ but you you speak my language ♪" "♪ yeah ♪ ♪ yeah ♪♪ [ brian ] there are two types of surfers that we have to be concerned with..." "In surfing waves that actually kill you." "One is gung ho." "This guy does not consider the risk." "The other guy is gun shy." "He does not want to accept the risk." "In this cage right here, gun shy and gung ho," "One focuses on his abilities," "And the other focuses on his limitation." "Pete, what is the worst-case scenario you can think of ?" "The worst-case scenario I can see, if someone goes down on a big wave," "And gets held under or maybe shoved into a cave." "When the rescue team goes in to get him, they can't find him." "[ brian ] rush, what is the worst-case scenario in this extreme surf ?" "I think, if you let go of the rope too soon," "And you fade to the bottom of the pit with no speed..." "And the wave just comes from behind and takes you out." "Gobbles you up." "Shane." "I think the worst-case scenario would be..." "To get sucked over the falls on a really, really big wave," "And lose all your air on impact and get sucked down really far;" "Like, 30 or 40 feet deep, you know, and you're getting darker and darker," "And all the clouds surrounding you," "Like you're just about ready to black out..." "And it's really loud and dark." "I think that would be a really-- like a really bad scenario." "[ shane ] how long have you lived here ?" "[ wyatt ] forever." "Came here for the surf." "Couldn't see leaving." "I travel." "But I always come back." "You a writer ?" " Yup." " Got a wife ?" " Mm-hmm." "Kids ?" " Yeah, three." "Girls." " They surf ?" "Of course." "The navy's got these things called "rebreathers."" "Put it in your mouth, and it pulls all the oxygen right out of the water." "Won't be long till we stay down indefinitely." "Rebreathers, my ass." "Guys sound like a bunch of astronauts." "Here's the news:" "You guys don't tow me in, I'm gonna paddle in." "You don't think I know what I'm doing ?" "I was number two in the world." "Full on, mickey, number two, man." "Full on !" "That was eight years ago." "Eight long years, bro." "Eight years ?" "[ all, chanting ] eight years, eight years, eight years !" "Eight years, eight years-- eight years, my ass !" "[ others, chuckling ] eight years !" "[ brian ] the other thing that we have to also understand..." "Is that we can augment our own abilities..." "Through the technology that we have." "But technology isn't everything; you need the speed, the strength," "To handle those kind of poundings." "You need to be as quick and agile to fly," "And you need to be as flexible as you can be to reduce injury." "As we all know, when we surf big waves," "You can be held under for more than one wave." "You can be held under for a two-wave hold down." "You could even be held under for three waves." "We understand the risk that's involved." "We know exactly what we're up against." "We know exactly what our bodies are able to do." "Practice extreme safety..." "When we're doing extreme things." "[ wyatt ] technology is taking surfing into another dimension," "Allowing a rider to match the speed of a 50-foot wave," "Traveling at 35 miles per hour." "But the question is, at what price ?" "Will only the most skilled stand a chance to survive ?" "To ride waves this big..." "Is to put yourself..." "In god's hands." "[ indistinct chattering ]" "♪♪ [ chanting in indonesian dialect ]" "What's the matter ?" "You all right ?" "[ groaning ] - side pain." "Can't breathe." "What's up ?" "All right, keoni." "What is it ?" "Take a deep breath." "Breathe." "Relax." "Relax." "Okay, let's walk him home." "Get him up." "[ groaning ]" "[ mickey ] he's burnin' up." "Maybe malaria." "I'll be fine." "Hey, no matter what, no hospitals, okay ?" "'cause I hate doctors." "One time, my mom..." "Had this skin disease." "It got really infected, and we had to take her to the hospital." "Stupid doctor gave her all the wrong things." "[ sighs ] ruined her teeth." "Ruined her hair." "She made her look all old." "My dad freaked." "Drove his truck right through the doc's living room." "[ chuckles ] right through the picture window." "You'll be okay." "You're strong." "Strongest man on earth." "[ shane ] what is this place ?" "[ wyatt ] my home." "[ wyatt ] there's this rock concert once a year." "We get invaded for three days, and then they'll all disappear." "♪♪ [ rock, indistinct ]" "Daddy !" " Daddy !" "Daddy !" "Daddy, daddy !" "Daddy !" " Daddy !" "Hello, girls." "Hi, daddy." "Hi, daddy." "Hi !" "Look how big you are." "Oh, god, I missed you." "Wyatt !" "[ chanting in balinese ]" "[ chanting continues ] [ keoni's heart beating ]" "It's not like I'm dyin' or anything, man." "I just got a temperature or somethin'." "Everybody's got a weak spot." "[ wyatt ] help me get him to my house." "Serena's with him." "Hope it's not malaria." "[ man on loudspeaker ] welcome travelers." "Time to rock." "Just remember, for the next 72 hours," "We are guests in another people's land." "So listen up." "There's trash cans and port-a-potties galore." "I need graphite too." "So spend wisely, and if you choose to partake," "For heaven's sakes, be discreet." "And above all, if you hit pay dirt, share thy bounty." "♪♪ [ female vocalist, indistinct ]" "[ playful screaming, squealing ]" "[ audience hooting, whistling ]" "[ gasping ] [ wyatt ] this is for you, and this is for you." " How come you're not over there with your friends ?" " Too many people." "I know what you mean." "I want to show you something." "All over the world, people are returning to their tribes." "I don't blame them." "Probably don't realize it, but you and your friends are part of a tribe." "You think ?" " It's a tribe built on mutual respect..." "And a common understanding of what it takes to do what we do." "Never really thought of it that way." "What do you think about riding waves that are too big to paddle into ?" "Do they frighten you ?" " Yeah." "What about using a jet ski to help you get in ?" "That's one way, yeah." "Mickey thinks they can be paddled into." "He hates jet skis." "He thinks it takes the purity away." "What do you think ?" "I haven't really made my mind up yet." "♪ dream through a warning sign ♪" "It's morning." "The night is over." "♪ numb your senses listless sleep of dreams ♪" "Hey." "You okay ?" "♪♪ [ continues, indistinct ]" "Rough night, huh ?" "The guys are out there training'." "I gotta get out there." "You'll be all right." "They'll take care of you." "Need anything ?" "♪♪ [ ends ]" "Oh, man !" "Come on, mickey." "Focus." "Focus." " I got it." "[ darrick ] wait for the whip." "Perfect." "Perfect !" "[ darrick ] faster !" "Faster !" "This is wrong !" "I got it !" "I got it !" "[ wyatt ] as I watched them train today, I was filled with a certain sadness." "[ typewriter clatters ] so many people aspire to greatness; so few succeed." "I could see the separation happening before my eyes." " Good !" " The big waves of hawaii would be waiting for them." "A challenge to one," "A threat to the other." "It's gonna get worse before it gets better." "I wish there was more i could do." "You could talk to me." "I like it when you talk to me." "Did you see me out there today ?" "I heard it was brutal." "That's my point exactly." "Shane got it." "You'll get it." "Takes time." "You were number two in the world, mickey." "Yeah." "I was." "[ pete ] just got word from hawaii." "There's a huge swell coming in." "Huge." " We'd love to hang with you guys, but I think it's time to go." "[ darrick ] might only get one shot at a swell this big." "Well, we gotta hang around, wait for the kid to get better." "Only take a couple of days." "[ clicks tongue ] see ya in hawaii." "All right." "We'll pick it up where we left off." " Right on." "Hopefully, we'll get there in time for the swell." "All right." "[ all muttering good-byes ]" "Hey, take care of the kid, huh ?" "Yeah, no problem." "[ groaning ]" "He ain't comin' in, you know." "I know." "[ mickey ] he's been preparing' to surf big waves all his life." "But he'd never leave the kid while he was sick." "He's got a strange way of showing his feelings." "You'll get used to it." " Hm." "To all my friends, good evening." "[ crowd shouting ]" "[ woman ] brothers and sisters, i can't tell you how blessed we are to have you here tonight..." "At this musical carnival of ours." "And I want you to give it up for skull." "[ crowd cheering ] [ male emcee ] all the way from stockholm, sweden !" "Whoo !" "♪♪ [ male vocalist, indistinct ]" "♪ chaos it's a one-way ticket ♪" "♪ to chaos and I'll be on ♪" "♪ chaos it's a one-way ticket to chaos ♪" "♪ chaos ♪♪" "I want to be just like you." "But I don't tell you that." "[ crowd shouting ]" "You're strong." "Strongest man on earth." "[ chanting in balinese ]" "[ chanting continues ]" "I said shut up !" "[ screaming ]" "[ screaming ]" "[ screaming ]" "[ man whispering, indistinct ]" "Shut up !" "[ whispering continues ] [ whispering ] leave me alone, alone, alone" "♪♪ [ hard rock ]" "[ screaming ]" "♪♪ [ woman vocalizing ] [ monkeys chattering ]" "[ screaming, crying ]" "Why you fightin' with me ?" "Let me go." "[ crying ]" "It's okay." "You'll be okay." "You'll be okay." "It's over." "[ shane ] keoni's not getting any better." "♪♪ [ female vocalist, indistinct ]" " I'm gonna take him home." "Get him to a doctor." "♪ blow you and I away ♪" "I knew when I came with you it wouldn't be forever." "My father's boat's coming back through." "I miss him." "♪ when the earth below ♪" "♪ shakes us from each other's arms ♪ - shane" "It's been a beautiful journey." "♪ I'll never forget you ♪" "♪ forget who you are ♪ i love you." "♪ I'll stay alive ♪" "♪ with the warmth of your breath inside ♪" "♪ I'll watch you fly ♪" "♪ wipe the tears from my eyes ♪♪" "[ man on radio ] hawaiian national sea and weather forecast..." "For local coastal waters reporting small craft and shipping lanes stage five alert." "Small craft warnings anticipated by 1800 hours." "[ continues, indistinct ] I'm ready." "Fever's gone." "Let's go !" "My point exactly." "[ man on radio ] small craft and shipping lanes stage five alert." "Does serena know what I did ?" "With the fire and all ?" "Yeah." "♪♪ [ male vocalist, indistinct ]" "Was she mad ?" "No, she wasn't mad." "I really liked her." "♪ lap up the rain ♪" "♪ released from all my sin ♪" "♪ I run you'll stay ♪ [ radio chatter ] ♪ was all-night surfer red ♪" "♪ when I held you that night ♪" "They beat us here." "[ mickey ] of course they did." "You leave first, you get there first." "♪♪ [ continues ] who's that guy in the baseball cap ?" "That's the wizard." "Mike stewart" "The only guy with guts enough to ride this place on a body board." "He's been mapping' the reef all summer." "♪♪ [ ends ]" "It'll be here by morning." "How big ?" "Big." "[ group ] ♪ merry, merry, merry ♪" "♪ a merry, merry christmas to you ♪♪" "♪♪ [ singing in hawaiian ]" "No hard feelings, but, uh..." "We took a vote." "I'm not towing you in." "Yeah, well, I'll be there just the same." "I'm not towing you in." "[ chuckles ]" "Yeah, I know." "You voted." " Merry christmas, darrick." " Mele kalikimaka to you too." "[ slaps buttocks ]" "Looks like the kid's feeling better." " Yeah." "♪ [ off-key ] she gave me her number and her eyes were as big as the moon ♪" "♪ soon I know I'm gonna be in her arms tonight ♪" "♪ hugging and kissing ♪♪ [ dog barks ]" "What's going on ?" "[ barking continues ]" " Uuh !" " Jesus, mickey !" "What the" " Stay out of this !" " What the hell's wrong with you ?" "Shut up !" "You've been told !" "All right, so you ride one of those big sons of bitches tomorrow." "Then what ?" "What's it gonna prove ?" "[ shane ] I've never tried to prove anything to anyone in my whole life." "[ mickey ] get out on the pro tour and make some money !" "Show people how good you are !" "Calm down." " Shut up !" "You lose that step, man, and it's gone." "[ snapping fingers ]" "And it ain't comin' back." "You're gonna burn out." "People burn out." "[ cricket chirping ]" "I'm paddling into one of those bombs tomorrow." "I know you are." "I hate the stink of those goddamn jet skis." "I know you do." "You think I'm nuts, don't you ?" "It can be done, you know." "I know it can." "You just gotta catch it right." "You ever gonna tell me what's on your mind ?" "You ever gonna tell anybody what's on your mind ?" "Jesus." "I'm treating' you like a chick." "Line up with the palm tree on the cliff." "Sit deep." "The wind comin' up the face is gonna be like nothing you ever felt." "This wave's an animal." "[ stewart ] imagine 50 to 60 olympic-size swimming pools..." "Converging all at once on this reef shelf here." "It's about 30 feet deep when it initially breaks..." "And then it shallows out to about 15 feet." "So there's a lot of intensity and force coming in all at once." "♪♪ [ male vocalist, indistinct ]" "♪ get off of my porch ♪" "You're up first." "You're gonna run with it a while outside." "I got the power." "Forty, fifty miles an hour." "I know it's gonna seem like a long time, but wait-- wait for the whip." "Hey." "Where's mickey ?" "Don't worry." "He'll be here." "♪ I'm gonna get my pistol ♪" "♪ and call out the dogs ♪" "♪ I'm gonna get my razor ♪" "♪ and feed you to the hogs ♪ [ stewart ] the wave generally comes in at a northwest direction," "Maybe 350 degrees on the compass." "The waves surge over the shelf towards the beach." "So if you can make it past the initial intensity of that impact," "The rest of this current should take you over to the channel." "But you're gonna have to hold your breath for a good 80 yards underwater." "So we're gonna be in the mach ten express ?" "Mach ten express." "♪♪ [ continues, indistinct ]" "If the guy wipes out on the inside corner and gets dragged underwater to the inside," "He's gonna get spit out along the shoreline here..." "Because the current comes in parallel with the beach." "So watch here if you do get caught in that inside section..." "Because it can wash you onto the rocks." "♪♪ [ continues, indistinct ]" "♪ I'm not goin' down ♪" "♪ so easy ♪" "[ man on radio ] what's mickey doing out here ?" "How'd he get out here ?" "Okay, guys." "You gotta make sure he stays out of the way." "Over." "Shane's up !" "Shane's up !" "♪♪ [ ends ]" "I'll be taking off on a 30-foot wave, impacting the water at such speed," "And hitting the bottom, which is about 40 feet deep..." "On jagged coral." "Then hoping you survive if you're getting carried all the way in." "It's possible." "♪♪ [ male vocalist, indistinct ]" "When I was pinned to the bottom-- i jumped off the bottom." "I couldn't get up." "It pinned me back down." "I started counting." "I got to 21 seconds before i pushed off the bottom again." "Fortunately, i saw a blue spot, and i went through and I made it." "♪♪ [ ends ]" "[ man on radio ] man down, man down !" "Team one, team one." " Go, go !" "Do something !" " [ man ] mayday !" "We got a man down !" "♪♪ [ female vocalist, indistinct ]" "[ man #1 on radio ] okay, we got a visual." "Let's go." "High speed, boys." "High-speed pickup." "Over." "[ man #2 on radio ] okay, wilford's got him." "He's on board." "[ man #1 ] okay, boys, vacate." "Go back out in the channel." "[ keoni ] what do you wanna do ?" "[ shane ] go again." "You sure ?" " I'm sure." "♪♪ [ male vocalist, indistinct ]" "♪ when you see me in the cage ♪" "♪ you'll seek you'll never find me in a rage ♪" "♪♪ [ continues, indistinct ]" "♪ I don't care ♪" "♪ I don't care ♪" "That has to be the biggest wave i ever saw in my whole life !" "You're up." "Grab the rope." "I'll tow you in." "I can't." "I'm scared, man." "Everybody's scared." "I'm really scared." "What do you wanna do ?" "How am I ever gonna face that kid again ?" "How am I ever gonna face anybody again ?" "It doesn't matter." "You just had a bad day." "Let it go." "Go tell the kid I'm cool" "That I'm just waiting for the right one." "I know you are, mickey." "It can be done, you know." "You can paddle into these waves." "You could do it." "♪ I'm waiting now ♪" "♪ awaiting rebirth ♪" "♪ craving it in the darkness ♪" "♪ ooh-ooh-ooh-ooh ♪" "What the hell's going on out there ?" " He said he's just waiting for the right one." " ♪ beautiful ♪" "♪ here ♪" "♪ breathing in god ♪" "♪ breathing in love ♪" "♪♪ [ continues, indistinct ]" "Jesus, mary and joseph." "♪ it's beautiful here ♪" " ♪ there is safety right here ♪ - mickey !" "♪ here ♪" "♪ wonderful ♪" "♪ seek care ♪" "♪ you ♪" "♪♪ [ holds note ]" "♪ feeling shame ♪" "♪♪ [ continues, indistinct ]" "♪ I'm born with you ♪" "♪ here, the shame ♪" "Mickey, no !" "Come on !" "We got a man down." "Go !" "Do something !" "Get him !" "Go !" "Go, go !" "Get him !" "♪ I have desire ♪" "♪ for the world ♪" "♪ and I have desire ♪" "♪ for you ♪" "He's not comin' up !" "♪ what will I think of this world ♪" "♪ what will I do in this world ♪" "♪ will I be afraid of this world ♪♪" "[ gasps ]" "[ gasping ]" "♪♪ [ male vocalist, indistinct ]" "♪ in a crowded world you leave an empty house ♪" "♪ I see you're lonely so leave me alone ♪" "♪ leave me alone ♪♪" "♪♪ [ man singing in hawaiian ]" "The big waves of hawaii." "Until we ride, we're just men..." "Waiting for a train." "Mickey was right, you know." "I hate the sound of those damn jet skis." "Me too." "My son !" "Hi !" "I love you, keoni." "I'm so sorry, mrs." "Mccormick." "I'm so sorry." "♪♪ [ ends ]" "♪♪ [ female vocalist, indistinct ]" "What would you say if I told you..." "That there's a wave out there," "And by the time it hits this little island off of mexico..." "It's gonna be massive," "And all I can think about is riding it ?" "Then what ?" "My point exactly." "[ chuckles ] what's so funny ?" "You ever had one of those friends where it doesn't even matter" "All you gotta do is just think about him and you smile ?" "No." "That's too bad." "♪ every chain ♪" "♪ today ♪" "♪ so I stay ♪" "♪♪ [ continues, indistinct ] [ people chattering ]" "♪ vow never ♪" "♪ ever again ♪ [ gulls cawing ]" "[ no dialogue ]" "♪ come on dive right in ♪" "♪ dive again ♪" "♪ my old friend ♪" "♪ your love will let you in ♪" "♪ but until ♪" "♪ the light ♪" "♪ it glows forever ♪" "♪ I will be there too ♪♪" "[ gull cawing ]" "[ speaking spanish ]" "Muy peligroso." "Gracias." "[ wyatt's voice ] so you wanna surf." "And the waves near the town where you live aren't half bad." "And then you hear about this wave..." "In a faraway country..." "With a name you can't even pronounce." "What then ?" "How far are you willing to go ?" "What sacrifice are you willing to make ?" "How good do you really wanna be ?" "Closed-captioned by captions, inc." "Los angeles" "♪ heaven ♪" "♪ savior of the whole world ♪" "♪ heaven ♪" "♪ love can make it ♪" "♪ love can take it in ♪" "♪ new moon in your star way ♪" "♪ it's to light your way ♪" "♪ you won't see the starlight ♪" "♪ you won't see the stars bright ♪" "♪ it's a brand-new day ♪ ♪ heaven ♪" "♪ it's a brand-new day ♪ ♪ it's a brand-new day ♪" "♪ heaven ♪" "♪ sing all over the whole world ♪" "[ bird call ]" "♪♪ [ men chanting in african dialect ]" "♪♪ [ chanting continues ]" "♪ it's a brand-new day ♪ ♪ heaven ♪" "♪ you believe in me ♪" "♪ it's a brand-new day ♪ ♪ heaven ♪" "♪ you believe in me ♪" "♪ it's a brand-new day ♪ ♪ heaven ♪" "♪ it's a brand-new day ♪ ♪ it's a brand-new day ♪" "♪ it's a brand-new day ♪ ♪ heaven ♪" "♪ it's a brand-new day ♪ ♪ it's a brand-new day ♪" "♪ it's a brand-new day ♪ ♪ heaven ♪" "♪ it's a brand-new day ♪ ♪ heaven ♪" "♪ you believe in me ♪" "♪ it's a brand-new day ♪ ♪ heaven ♪" "♪ it's a brand-new day ♪ ♪ heaven ♪" "♪ it's a brand-new day ♪ ♪ heaven ♪" "♪ you believe in me ♪" "♪ it's a brand-new day ♪ ♪ heaven ♪" "♪ you believe in me ♪" "♪ it's a brand-new day ♪ ♪ heaven ♪" "♪ it's a brand-new day ♪♪"