"No land on Earth possess more wonders than Egypt" "wonders long hidden but revealed occasionally in a glint of gold or a curious tale," "Our story begins with a death the death of an unusual boy," "Worshipped as the son of Re, the Sun god he was a pharaoh of Egypt 3,000 years ago," "We don't know how he died, only that his death was sudden and mysterious," "His body was preserved in the manner of other pharaohs and priests anointed his coffin to prepare him for his final journey into the world of the dead," "The rituals had to be finished before his father the Sun, descended into darkness," "So this young pharaoh was secured in his tomb surrounded by kingly treasures and his seal was pressed into its entrance," "From that time on it was to be a place of peace hidden and undisturbed throughout eternity," "This young King's name was Tutankhamen," "For 3,000 years," "King Tut and his tomb in the Valley of the Kings remained concealed beneath shifting sands," "Other tombs were discovered and completely pillaged but not his," "Believing he could find it, an Englishman named Howard Carter mounted five arduous expeditions but they yielded nothing," "In 1922, he returned to Egypt for a sixth attempt," "That year he brought a beautiful canary to brighten his spirits," "The workmen called it the Golden Bird and told Carter it would bring them good luck," "But as work began success seemed a remote prospect," "And time was running out," "Carter's benefactor," "Lord Canarvon was an English earl fascinated by Egypt but even he was losing faith, and had threatened to cut off the money," "Yet Carter persisted knowing that if found intact the tomb would be filled with amazing artifacts that would help us peer through the shadows of time to glimpse a world of human splendor long lost" "to glimpse our very beginnings," "That's a great story Grandpa but I want to know more," "You live here and I know you can tell me the real story," "About?" "Well, my friends want me to ask about the "curse"" "how anyone ho entered King Tut's tomb," ",will have some terrible things happen to them," "Yes, yes, I know, I don't know if I believe it," "But will you tell me about it?" "So the pharaohs, the tombs the monuments the great civilization ho built them you are not interested in?" "But the Mummy's curse you find," "Exciting!" "Yes, I can see that," "All right then, you shall hear all about it," "But first we must take a trip together," "Where will we start then?" "At the source, of course," "The source of the Nile," "It is the longest river on Earth, the greatest river in Africa crossing nearly half the continent," "It is born of two rivers the White Nile hich rises near Lake Victoria and heads north through Uganda-and the Blue Nile hich descends from the highlands of Ethiopia," "They meet in the desert of Sudan, forming the main trunk of the Nile," "By the time it drains into the Mediterranean Sea its waters have journeyed more than 4,000 miles," "To the outside world the source of the great river was an enduring mystery," "But to the ancient Egyptians, the source was clear:" "the Nile flowed from the realm of the gods," "But hat has the Nile to do with mummies and curses?" "Everything," "There would be no mummies, no ancient Egypt-in fact, no Egypt at all without her," "You see," "Egypt without the Nile is a desert, suitable for camels and scorpions, but not great civilizations, lt's only here along the flood plain of the Nile that the desert's heat is softened, and arid sand is turned to rich farmland," "Nourished and irrigated by the Nile," "Egypt became the longest lived of all the great early civilizations," "In ancient times, so much water raced down from the lush valleys of Central Africa that the Nile overflowed its banks in seasonal floods," "Mineral-rich silt was carried toward the desert of Egypt from lands upstream, here wildlife flourished," "Rich land made possible a vast farming culture and a stable civilization able to turn from daily survival to works of the mind:" "science, mathematics, engineering and astronomy," "They studied the heavens and the seasons gave us the 24-hour day and the 365-day calendar," "Egypt, an old saying goes, was the gift of the Nile," "But the Egyptians believed there was one thing even mightier than the Nile:" "the sun-the God they called Re, the God ho created everything," "Each morning with its rising the Sun God would be born," "Each night in setting he'd die," "But the next morning he would rise again never failing," "He was eternal," "When a king died, it was believed that he became one with Re:" "His son the new pharaoh became Horus the falcon, the living God on earth," "And so the Egyptians accorded their rulers absolute power hich they used to build an extraordinary empire" "an empire of buildings so enormous and art so exquisite we are still trying to understand how such wonders were created" "how stones from the desert were turned into timeless monuments," "Some of the oldest buildings on earth are here preserved by the desert air and the skill of their creators," "Some are so old that they had already stood a thousand years hen Tutankhamen was born," "The enormous obelisks of Karnak were carved from single blocks of granite, moved hundreds of miles by boat rolled on logs and perhaps levered up with huge timbers," "Giant statues of Ramses the Great carved at Abu Simbel are still some of the largest figures ever sculpted from solid stone," "We don't know how they did it, but we do know hy to honor the pharaohs, both in life and after death," "Honor the pharaohs after death?" "Does that have anything to do with mummies?" "Yes, Look at Tutankhamen for example," "When the young kind died, the priests sought to create a magical new body for him," "For 70 days they labored, drying and preserving the royal body with salts and ointments, then wrapping it in hundreds of feet of linen laden with protective jewels, charms and amulets," "And finally, crowning the mummy with an exquisite golden death mask," "Tutankhamen was ready for the afterlife," "Had the boy king lived and died a thousand years earlier, he would have been buried like pharaohs long before him in a monument of colossal proportions the man-made mountain of stone called pyramids," "They probably saw the pyramid's shape as a mystical link between earth and sky," "providing the pharaoh's soul with a stairway to the heavens," "Of the fabled Seven Wonders of the Ancient World only the pyramids of Giza remain-built more than 4,000 years ago," "Nearly 500 feet tall they contain some of the largest pieces of stone ever moved by humans-as much as 50 tons or more," "Yet this was accomplished without heels or pulleys or even iron tools," "How in the world did they do it without modern machinery?" "The gods certainly didn't do it," "They used their minds," "Knowledge built these great great structures," "Highly sophisticated knowledge," "Look," "All of the Giza pyramids are built in perfect alignment with certain stars," "That takes a knowledge of astronomy," "The pyramids' foundations are laid out in perfect angles and dimensions, precisely correct for the height they wanted to reach," "Now that takes knowledge of geometry and mathematics," "And finally, you must get these big stones from down here to up there and you must make them all fit perfectly," "Now that takes knowledge an incredible knowledge of engineering and organization," "Organization?" "Absolutely," "You just said so yourself, lt wasn't the gods ho built these great monuments, lt was people," "Thousands and thousands of people," "Imagine being one of these people living in a tiny village more than 4,000 years ago," "Life would be pretty much the same day in and day out-farming, herding cattle fishing in the Nile," "Then one day, you're selected to journey by boat down the Nile," "You're now part of the great national project to build the pharaoh's tomb," "But you have no idea hat kind of tomb!" "And then you see a monument to the sun to life eternal," "How did they move such heavy stones to such great heights?" "There are many theories, but they probably pulled the blocks up mud-slickened ramps raising the ramps as the pyramid grew," "Masons then set the stones with such precision a postcard couldn't fit between them," "To create the Great Pyramid of Khufu, it took over 20 years, more than two million stone blocks, and some 20,000 people," "And they might have been slaves, but now we think they were mostly peasant farmers recruited to work here part of the year," "With their help, the early pharaohs built more than a hundred pyramids-80 of hich survive today," "But hat about the kings ho came later?" "You told me King Tutankhamen wasn't buried in a pyramid?" "No, he wasn't," "They stopped building them," "And for good reason," "There were robbers ho cared far more about heaps of gold than an eternal journey," "The pyramids, to these thieves, were like enormous billboards saying," ""We've buried the king in here and all his treasure with him,"" "At any rate, a new plan had to be devised," "That's hy 500 years after the last pyramids were built a new era of kings decided that instead of building tombs hich everyone could see hy not build tombs hich no one could see," "Three hundred miles south of the great pyramids across the Nile from the modern city of Luxor is this barren maze of valleys in the shadow of a natural pyramid," "Here no thief could find the royal tombs," "Here the kings and queens of Egypt would remain immortal or so they thought," "But greed breeds ingenuity," "Cleverly hiding their devious enterprises, robbers scoured the Valley of the Kings," "Over time, each of the valley tombs was found broken into and completely plundered-except for one" "Except for the tomb of Tutankhamen" "That at least is hat Howard Carter believed," "And, if he was right it would be the greatest archaeological discovery of modern times" "But after five years he still hadn't found it, and the situation was becoming desperate," "Then, on the morning of" "November the 4th, 1922, a waterboy trying to secure his jug hit an unusual rock," "Carter sent a telegram to Lord Canarvon in England to come quickly and went to" "Cairo to meet his benefactor," "But hile he was away something very strange happened," "The golden bird that had brought them luck was killed by a cobra," "Well, now the cobra was the protector of the pharaoh," "And the canary represents those ho had entered the tomb," "So the cobra ate the canary because of the mummy's curse," "More likely he ate it because he was hungry, I like the curse idea better!" "Well, certainly the workmen believed it was the curse," "The death of the golden bird was a bad omen to them, lt meant that someone close to the project would die within the year," "Rumors of a curse mattered little to Carter," "He hoped his dig would uncover a tomb like this one the tomb of a pharaoh named Ramses the 6th ho ruled long after King Tut," "Carter wanted to find treasure," "But if not, something just as precious," "Pictures, hieroglyphs that would reveal priceless knowledge of how the ancients lived and hat they believed," "These images are from the Egyptian Books of the Dead, passports to eternity hich were buried with a mummy," "To help a dead king reach the afterlife, they supplied answers to questions he would be asked spells to deflect dangers along the way," "But preparation for the afterlife began long before death," "In grand temples once supported by these pillars-among the largest places of worship ever built the living pharaohs gave offerings as a way of communicating with the gods in the world beyond and courting their favor," "Both immense and colorful, temples like the great structure called Medinet Habut were the settings for magnificent rituals that proclaimed to all not only the pharaoh's power and wealth but his devotion to the gods he would one day join on a journey through eternity," "They sure seemed preoccupied with life after death," "Yes, and probably because no ancient people enjoyed life as much as they did," "There are picture stories of invention and adventure of board games and ball games, of dance and music," "of acrobats and mechanical toys, of the affection between husbands and wives, and of family unity and love," "It was the most advanced civilization of its time, and it went on for 3,000 years," "But the empire they amassed attracted invaders," "Among the stories on temple walls are accounts of battles against outsiders ho tried to conquer the kingdom of the pharaohs," "But, the invading empires became more powerful even more determined" "and so gradually, inevitably, the kingdom of Egypt began to crumble," "Well, how could a place as powerful as Egypt just collapse?" "Actually, many things happened, but mostly it was the weakening of the pharaohs' power through civil turmoil, making Egypt vulnerable to invaders," "Little by little much of the pharaohs' great empire-along with its secrets was reclaimed by the desert," "But even as the monuments of Egypt crumble, the stories are rediscovered by modern archaeologists deciphering the distant past," "Scholars and artists are preserving the Great Sphinx for all humanity," "Research within the Giza pyramids has revealed the brilliance of ancient architects hose sophisticated designs prevented the collapse of these inner chambers and passageways," "DNA analysis is helping to identify family ties of the royal mummies and to give us clues about how they lived and died," "New excavations are uncovering the support system of settlements and facilities for the workers ho built the Giza pyramids," "These new discoveries and many more-owe themselves at least in part, to one discovery not quite as modern of the tomb of a teenage pharaoh," "On November 26, 1922," "Howard Carter reached the wall outside the first chamber of Tutankhamen's tomb," "What can you see?" "Carter, please, can you see anything?" "Yes," "Yes," "Wonderful things Wonderful things" "And they were wonderful things, kept hidden for over 3,000 years in four chambers carved from solid rock," "They entered to find the only intact king's tomb ever discovered in modern times," "And in the burial chamber, four golden shrines, inside the fourth shrine, three golden coffins, one inside the other, and at the center, the mummy of the boy king Tutankhamen," "This was the greatest treasure ever found in Egypt well over 2,000 objects of gold alabaster lapis and precious jewels made thousands of years ago by master craftsmen," "They gave us a personal glimpse of a royal life in ancient Egypt-and fueled our drive to continue searching to continue learning," "So through discoveries like Howard Carter's and those of modern archaeologists, the ruins of ancient Egypt means something to us," "The stone creations that still loom up from the desert are mute testaments of humanity's great stride forward from hunters and gatherers, to builders of majestic structures, to dreamers of grand dreams," "These stone wonders are the shape of our beginnings towering symbols of our rise to become thinkers artists, poets,and builders," "These great monuments keep us humble, too," "After all, they managed to survive for nearly 5,000 years," "How long has our modern civilization been around in comparison?" "Not very long," "Not very long," "Now as to the matter of the-the curse:" "Lord Canarvon died from an infected mosquito bite five months after King Tut's tomb was opened," "So it is true, after all," "Well, Lord Canarvon did die an untimely death, but Howard Carter lived to be 65 and the little waterboy ho was one of the first into the tomb because of his size lived to a ripe old age," "as did most of the workers," "Clearly, there was no curse of death," "But beyond all of that, a curse, you see, flies in the face of everything the Egyptians believed in," "You mean life," "Yes, life," "Death, for them, wasn't an end, it was the beginning of a great journey through eternity, here their gods and kings sailed the morning ship across a lake of flames in the sky, rising in new life each day with the sun," "Two thousand years after Egypt's last pharaoh died a modern film crew has just 34 days to bring their ancient world alive," "But putting history on film is always a delicate business and tackling ancient Egypt may be the toughest filmmaking challenge of all," "Ancient Egypt began more than 5,000 years ago and its remarkable civilization lasted 3,000 years," "The magnificent remains of Egypt's glorious past include the pyramids,tempes" "Tut's tomb and its treasures yet the people that created them were a mystery to us," "But today we know more than ever about life in ancient Egypt and director Bruce Neibaur is celebrating our knowledge in a larger-than-life film," "The thing that draws me to history is the fact that we are all part of the same human experience we're all linked together in some way," "What's happened in the past is bringing itself to bear on hat's happening in the present," "Bruce is filming the "Mysteries of Egypt,"" "a giant-screen lmax feature for National Geographic and destination cinema, lt's a monumental undertaking there are hundreds of extras thousands of costumes and props and over eight tons of specialized equipment designed to shoot the biggest film stock in the world," "A standard 35mm frame is about this big 70mm is about this big, lmax is about this big and it's thrown up on a screen six stories high, every detail shows up," "Authenticity is everything," "And the crew is under constant pressure to achieve perfection," "Costume designer Jackie Crier has been working since dawn," "Today, she must transform hundreds of extras into pyramid builders for a crucial scene," "Down river archaeological advisor Zahi Hawass waits for shooting to start with producers Scott Swofford and Lisa Truitt," "I take full responsibility for everything bad in the film," "If anything goes wrong I will throw Lisa" "Scott and Bruce in the Nile," "Getting it right can be difficult, because just how the Egyptians did build the pyramids is still a mystery," "We know they devised a system for moving mammoth chunks of limestone," "We know the system was efficient one 5,000-pound stone could be added to a rising mound every two minutes," "But hat we don't know is how they did it without heels or cranes," "They simply do not show pyramid building anyhere and so hat we are left with are surmises or inferences that we make from the stones the size of the stones," "But you know the rules of physics haven't changed," "We have found sledges," "We have found ropes or fragments of rope," "We have found ramps of pyramids," "The evidence has an interesting tale to tell but getting the story on film requires some distinctly modern tricks," "Production designer Michael Buchanan knows everything has to look just right, I'm trying to make the plaster look like real stones," "So it doesn't look like hat it is!" "The plaster stones weigh only a fraction of the real thing, but the actors' efforts are real," "As the camera rolls, 20-man teams haul the blocks on sledges up increasingly steep ramps," "It's a dazzling sight, and one not seen on the" "Giza plateau in over 4,000 years," "Until now I haven't seen any film that is done on ancient Egypt that is accurate," "All that we see is like 30% accurate, until now," "When I saw the stones going up the hill, it really looked like ancient Egypt," "So this is a huge pay off and to have Zahi's stamp of approval is a big, big relief," "But more than stone was moved to build the pyramids 20,000 laborers traveled to the isolated Giza plateau," "How they got here might surprise you," "Four thousand years ago, the pyramids weren't surrounded by desert," "The Egyptians built harbors and canals that brought the Nile deep into the Giza plateau," "We can imagine, back 4,600 years ago," "Cheops building his pyramid, hat he did he cut this harbor, and the harbor was connecting with the Nile," "The harbor was used every morning hen the workmen are coming," "Everyone is holding his lunch and coming, and coming in boats, and they work here and building the pyramid from the sunrise to the sunset," "Bringing that ancient harbor to life will be one of the most difficult tasks the crew undertakes but Bruce wants the scene on film," "All the modern tools are employed-extras across the river are cued by walkiee-talkie, and even the sailboat has a motor hidden from view," "Duck out, man!" "Turnover!" "Roll it please turning, turning, turning," "But nothing goes as planned the wind won't cooperate and the Nile's current forces the boat backwards," "Oh, man-collision!" "What was done with ease over 4,000 years ago may be too much to accomplish this day," "We have a panic moment here," "See hat I'm wondering, if we had some good lengths of rope that we could throw on shore and draw that in, lt's a last ditch attempt sail the boat anyhere near the shore and have the extras drag it in with ropes," "Throw the damn rope," "But the nightmare continues," "The light is going, and the shot with it, I quit,the boat looks great, yeah all the physical elements are great, just, you know, we just want to get the boat to go up the river" "turn around and come back," "And we finally just we have to move on and do other things," "At least there were no casualties," "During the actual building of the pyramids, mistakes often resulted in serious injury and sometimes death," "Building the pyramid for sure there was many accidents we found about 12 skeletons," "At least ten of them had accidents on their hand two of them had accidents on their leg, lt means maybe a stone fell down on their leg," "Pyramid-building was dangerous work, ln the next scene, the crew will film a runaway column stone, lt's only a prop, but it weighs about 400 pounds," "Actors, extras, and an" "Egyptian stuntwoman must scramble out of the column's path at the last possible moment," "There is little room for error," "While the prop gets a last minute touch-up, the film crew shoots the stone's point of view," "She's quick!" "Thank God, I've done things like this before but not as dangerous," "Finally, both camera and column are ready to roll," "Three, two, one, go!" "The shot comes off without a hitch and the crew now turns to their biggest challenge recreating the funeral procession of Egypt's most famous pharaoh," "Carter, please, can you see anything?" "Yes, wonderful things," "Wonderful things, ln 1922, an obscure English archaeologist named Howard Carter unearthed the remains of an even more obscure pharaoh named Tutankhamen," "Carter had discovered hat all others had despaired of ever finding a virtually unlooted pharaoh's tomb," "And the treasures of King Tut have never relinquished their grip on the world's imagination," "Now director Bruce Neibaur's crew wants to bury King Tut all over again," "High above a desert valley, the crew prepares to capture the boy king's funeral procession," "In Tut's time, the pharaohs no longer built pyramids for their tombs-instead they hid their treasure filled burial sites in the remote valley of the kings," "The valley can be a tricky place to shoot as the director of photography" "Reed Smoot, knows all too well, lt's tough because the sun hits the horizon, it's beautiful for about 30 seconds, and then, boom!" "It's midday," "But everyone feels the pressure and lining up extras can be the bane of any casting director's existence" "Meanhile, costume designer Jackie Crier rushes to outfit them," "I'm not always calm, I'm pretty calm," "Months of research, design and artistry have gone into the costumes," "And into the props as well," "Egypt's finest artisans have carved an exquisite replica of Tut's coffin," "Made of gold over plaster, it looks like the original," "And like the original, it's not easy to move," "How heavy is the coffin, Michael?" "It's a nightmare," "Advisor Nicholas Reeves has arrived," "The author of several books on Tut," "Reeves is here to make sure the boy king's last rites are performed according to ancient protocol," "His only reference source lies deep within the valley of the kings, on the walls of the tomb itself," "Reeves also thinks these walls contain shocking clues about how the young pharaoh died," "Why should he have died at 17?" "There's no trace of TB or any other illness," "Nothing at all," "He was healthy hen he died," "And x-rays taken of Tut's skull suggest the possibility of foul play," "Certainly x-rays of the head show damage hich might have been caused by a blow," "In fact, Reeves thinks Tut was murdered, and that his killer attended the funeral," "But as the sun creeps up over the horizon, the immediate concern is getting the procession underway, and on film," "But before they can start, another question-hat sound should the funeral goers make?" "Taking their cues from modern Egyptian funerals, they decide on wailing," "And production designer Michael Buchanan demonstrates for the bemused extras," "But there's a last minute hitch," "Reeves is bothered by the golden staffs," "There's no time for scholarly debate," "They've got to go," "Action!" "Three thousand years after his death, golden light and mournful sounds fill the valley as the coffin of the 17-year-old boy-king once again makes its way to a final resting place," "From an Egyptologists point of view, hat's quite striking is the colors," "the contrast of the gold against the backgrounds, and the noise and the hole atmosphere of the thing," "I think it's captured very well," "A filmmaker's imagination brings back a lost moment in time," "At last it's time to rehearse the scene here Tut's advisor," "Ay, administers last rites, just as recorded on the tomb paintings," "But Reeves suspects Ay had more than a ceremonial role in the young pharaoh's death," "Ay may well have had a hand in Tutankhamen's downfall, I suspect, He had the most to gain, lt was Ay ho took over the pharaoh's throne after Tut's death," "but we may never know the truth," "With the sacred rites finished," "Tut's coffin was carried deep within a labyrinth designed to foil grave robbers" "sealed in for an eternity, hich turned out to be a mere 3,000 years," "Tutankhamen in life was a minor pharaoh," "He's quickly forgotten by his successors and by the ancient Egyptians," "Now he's probably the most famous king Egypt has ever known, I think if he's looking down on us, he's probably quite happy," "One of my hopes for this film is that people will see it, and they'll be stimulated enough to go to the library to learn more about the project," "I keep looking at this stuff and these beautiful scenes we're getting, because I do feel at times like I can really see hat it was like," "Creating a sense of past is hat they've pursued all these days under the desert sun, hoping to share the secrets of ancient Egypt," "Within these walls lies a mystical city..." "an ancient promise of peace so desired that man has warred over it for thousands of years." "Over the centuries its walls have been reddened by the blood of Jebusites and Jews," "Babylonians and Persians armies of Arabs, Crusaders," "Ottoman Turks, and the British Empire." "Sacred city of the soul for one third of the earth's people, through the millennia it has drawn mankind to itself like a magnet." "To all who live, work, and visit here, this is more than a city;" "it is a haven the fulfillment of some dream or prophecy the legacy of generations who have gone before." "For this man and his family, coming here was the consummation of a promise made," "2,000 years ago." "This man came here as an orphaned boy and found a miniature version of his lost nation." "The dark shadow of Hitler's armies advancing across Europe drove this man on a path that led to the discovery of his roots in the very earth beneath his home." "The magnetism of the city's Holy Places is so strong that this man risked losing his own family to come here." "Proud inheritor of a name that has lived in this city for 1 ,300 years, this man's life bridges past and future." "From near and far they have come, searching for refuge, for their pasts, and the meaning of the present." "Three thousand years of vibrant history, hope, and belief are rooted here within the walls of Jerusalem." "Jerusalem, within these walls in the tiny enclave that is the Old City, some of the greatest dramas in the history of mankind have been enacted." "This is a story of that city crucible of the world's three great monotheistic religions..." "symbol of peace in an area of turmoil and upheaval." "It is a story of peoples of profoundly different cultures who struggle to maintain those differences people who have fought each other, but now live side by side in sometimes uneasy coexistence." "Jews from around the world pray at the Western Wall vestige of the Second Temple..." "object of Jewish yearning and prayer for 2,000 years." "Here, built on the sites where tradition says Jesus spent His last moments on earth, was crucified and entombed, is the Church of the Holy Sepulchre." "Most holy of shrines in the Christian world, this church has attracted pilgrims since the time of Constantine the Great." "In the walls of their ancient quarter," "Armenians strive to preserve the heritage of a vanished kingdom..." "in their lives... andinthehearts and minds of their younger generation." "Consecrated under this Dome is the sacred rock where, tradition says, abraham prepared to sacrifice Isaac..." "over which the ancient temples of the Jews were built..." "from which, Muslims proclaim," "Muhammad journeyed to heaven." "This tumult of people and history intersects in the labyrinth of the ancient bazaars." "Wrapped around the venerable city like the setting for an exotic jewel are the walls retaining traces of the eras of King Herod, the Romans, and Crusaders..." "last rebuilt by Suleiman the Magnificent 400 years ago." "Outside the walls, there is the twentieth century, the new city of Jerusalem, and the administrative center of the nation of Israel." "Inside is a city believed by medieval man to be the center of the Universe, a city known to more people for a longer time than any other on earth." "Here, the heart of historic Jerusalem still beats." "Its ethnic-religious quarters cling to the sites that give them life:" "the Dome of the Rock:" "third holiest place of Islamic pilgrimage after Mecca and Medina and focal point of the Muslim Quarter..." "the Western Wall known as the Wailing Wall..." "symbol of the Jewish Quarter..." "the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, core of the Christian Quarter that has grown around it..." "the Cathedral of St. James, spiritual center of the Armenian Quarter." "Twenty-six thousand souls make their home in the Old City, packed into an area of less than one square mile." "Their story began 3,000 years ago, when King David bought the threshing floor on this hill as the site for the temple of the Jew's one God." "Having subdued the Jebusites, he transformed their city into the capital of the United Kingdom of Israel and thrust Jerusalem center stage in a drama that continues to this day." "Once a royal center of impressive structures and massive fortifications, the City of David has begun to reveal its past to archeologists under the direction of Dr. Yigal Shiloh of the Hebrew University." ""David made this city more important than others by choosing this location to become the capital of Judea at the south and Israel at the north."" "The residential area of David's capital probably looked much like this village of today." "Urbanization undoubtedly began here because of the presence of the Spring of Gihon a constant source of water." "At the end of the eighth century B.C. , anticipating an attack by the Assyrians," "King Hezekiah ordered this tunnel built." ""Why should the kings of Assyria come and find much water?"" "asks the Bible in Second Chronicles Cut deep underground, the tunnel carried the water nearly 1 ,800 feet from the spring outside the wall to a point inside the city." ""This system was done by king Hezekiah as it is described in the Bible and the inscription that was found at the southern end of the tunnel."" "The city survived the siege of the Assyrians." "But in 586 B.C. , Babylonian forces burned Jerusalem, massacred thousands, and exiled the enslaved survivors." "Archeologists have uncovered poignant reminders of those who once lived here, including clay seals bearing names of people mentioned in the Bible." "The lament of the exiles echoes through history:" ""lf l forget thee, O Jerusalem, let my right hand forget her cunning..." "let my tongue cleave to the roof of my mouth, if I prefer not Jerusalem above my chief joy!"" "A half century later, the Persians defeated the Babylonians and allowed the Jews to return." "The Second Temple rose on the site of the first." "This model depicts Jerusalem as it was when Jesus came here to celebrate the festival of Passover." "Although He knew the repressive Roman rulers had labeled Him a rebel," "He continued to preach brotherhood kindness, and charity." "In the last days before His Crucifixion," "Jesus left the temple by these steps." "They are on of the few remnants that remain for in 7 0 A. D. , on the anniversary of the day the Babylonians had sacked the First Temple, the Romans burned the city butchered the people, and took the rest as slaves." "Thus was Jerusalem destroyed for a second time." "Six hundred years later according to Muslim belief," "Muhammad departed for the throne of God from the sacred rock of Jerusalem where the temple had stood." "Aware of the Holy Books of the Jews and Christians," "Muhammad had converted the idolatrous tribes of Arabia to the concept of one God." "Only six years after his death, an army of his followers stood at Jerusalem's gates, claiming the city as their own." "Muslims were to rule Jerusalem for the next 1 ,300 years." "Except for two interruptions when the Crusaders wrested the city from them." "In the 20th century, the flame of war again flared in the Holy Land." "World War I :" "The British march into Palestine to fight the Ottoman Turks." "As it has some 20 times in its recorded history, in 1 91 7 Jerusalem falls." "The Holy City is surrendered to the British." "Mindful that Jesus had walked into Jerusalem," "General Sir Edmund Allenby humbly enters Jaffa Gate on foot." "There are renewed stirrings of Zionism, the concept of a modern Jewish nation" "In 1 947, the United Nations votes to end the British Mandate and partition Palestine into Jewish and Arab states." "May 1 4, 1 948:" "David Ben-Gurion citing"..." "the fulfillment of the dream of generations,"" "makes a proclamation Jews everywhere have long awaited:" ""The State of Israel has arisen."" "The next day, six neighboring Arab countries invade, determined to crush the infant nation before it is born." "With Jerusalem under siege and the Jewish Quarter ready to fall, the Holy Books are removed." "Jerusalem is a divided city." "For 1 9 years the Old City will be ruled by Jordan." "In 1 967, as the Six Day War rages, Israeli paratroopers storm through St. Stephen's Gate." "Defense Minister Moshe Dayan arrives at the Western Wall..." "in Jewish hands again for the first time in 2,000 years." "According to ancient custom," "General Dayan writes a prayer to place in the wall:" ""May peace come to the Jewish people."" "Today, a fragile peace reigns in the Walled City." "The Supreme Muslim Council has remained in charge of the Dome of the Rock the Israelis reclaimed the Western Wall, cherished relic of their lost temple." "Jews from more than one hundred cultural backgrounds have come to live in their ancient capital." "Many are Ashkenazi, from Europe and the Americas;" "the rest, Sephardic and Oriental Jews, are from Mediterranean regions, the Middle and Far East." "When the Jewish community in Yemen heard of the establishment of Israel," "Joseph Zadok and his family decided to emigrate immediately." "For them, the Biblical prophecy of the return to Zion was fulfilled." "His grandson, Shalom, explains:" ""My family knew from the Bible and from our tradition that Jerusalem was the Holy City." "When my family came from Yemen, they wanted to live only in Jerusalem." "We call it center of the world."" "Isolated in remote southern Arabia for some 2,000 years, persecuted by their Muslim rulers, the Jews of Yemen had long dreamed of redemption in the promised land." "They clung to their beliefs, and kept the ancient observances in their purest form." "Now, celebrating Passover, the Zadoks commemorate the Jew's deliverance from slavery in Egypt, just ad Jesus did at what has come to be known as "The Last Supper."" "The Bible promised "They that wait upon the Lord..." "shall mount up with wings as eagles."" "In 1 949 the Zadoks joined the flood of Jews crossing hundred of miles of desert on foot, donkey back, and by truck to Aden." "Those who survived the torturous journey were flown to the Holy Land by an airlift dubbed "Operation Magic Carpet."" "Restricted to certain occupations in Yemen, many Jews were shoemakers weavers, jewelers." "Joseph Zadok was a court jeweler for the King of Yemen." ""Our family has been making jewelry for more than seven generations." "It is our heritage, our tradition." "When we came from Yemen, we tried to keep our traditions."" ""Most of the Yemenite brides in Jerusalem use our wedding dress and jewelry."" "The bride, of European ancestry, carries on her groom's family tradition." "She wears the elaborate jewelry and costume the Zakods lend to bridal parties for a ceremony called the "hineh"" "that accompanied every Jewish wedding in Yemen." "The henna from which the festivity derives its name has long been used as a talisman of good luck." "If the henna applied to the hands of the bride and groom remains in the morning, their wedding will take place." "Mr. Zadok, a relative of the groom, is here to bestow a blessing." "Beginning a life together, this young couple shares the rich heritage of their combined European," "Oriental, and Israeli cultures." "During the Jordanian occupation of the Old City, the Jewish Quarter had been nearly destroyed." "When reconstruction began after the War of '67," "Theo and Miriam Siebenberg were the third family to build here." ""lt was my dream to come to Jerusalem." "Jewis have been praying for Jerusalem throughout the centuries, for thousands of years, going back even to the time of the exile in Babylon."" ""The Jewish Quarter is full of our history from 3,000 years ago." "When we came, the Jewish Quarter was completely destroyed, and now everything is built and clean." "The changes were immense."" ""l was born in Antwerp, Belgium." "My family left Antwerp on May 1 1 , 1 940 that's one day after the Germans marched into Belgium."" "As the Nazi horror swept across Europe, the Siebenberg family fled..." "first by car, finally even crossing mountains on foot" "Always fearful and in hiding, for months the refugees traveled against the tide of invaders until they made their way to safety." "After the war, as the Jewish people struggled to create a homeland," "Theo joined the underground." "Eventually, he made his way here." "Like all Jews born in Israel," "Miriam is known as a "sabra."" ""My parents came from Warsaw, Poland." "I was born in Tel Aviv and I went to regular school and then the high school." "And after high school I went to the army, like all the sabras in Israel did." "I thought I'd never leave the army, I liked it so much."" "Miriam and Theo met at a party 20 years ago." "Today they often entertain visiting dignitaries, drawn by the remarkable discoveries the Siebenbergs have unearthed." "When Theo and Miriam completed their house in 1 97 0, archeologists were digging all around them in the Jewish Quarter." "Fired by the dramatic finds being made," "Siebenberg determined to build a museum beneath his home." "As workmen removed 3,000 years of accumulated debris, tangible links with those who had lived on this site through the millennia began to emerge." ""These stones here are each made out of one large block of stone." "They are sections actually of the aqueduct the passed here 2,000 years ago and which brought water into the city of Jerusalem."" ""Now this is a mikvah or Jewish ritual bath, which is 2,000 years old and belonged to the mansion which stood above here." "And of course that was a three-floor-high house."" "The home probably burned when the Romans sacked Jerusalem in 7 0 A. D." ""Now if you look down here, these rooms that you see down below... "" ""... theywerehewnout ofsolidrock about 3,000 years ago." "That's roughly King Solomon's time." "The openings that you see here were called a nefesh, or the soul."" ""The soul would actually rise out of these openings, and there was on top of this a pyramid-shaped stone structure, which was the permanent abode of the soul."" "For Theo Siebenberg, each discovery provided palpable contact with the past and his people." ""Actually we're four floors under the house now." "I find this probably the most exciting part of the excavation." "Actually we're standing in a room which goes back thousands of years, and you can almost feel the presence of the people who lived here at that time you know," "King Solomon's time King David's time."" ""This is a machine gun which was used in the war of lndependence in 1 948."" ""The same week I found this I was excavating three floors lower at the other end of the site, and I found... " this arrowhead in the war against the Romans in the year 7 0 of the Common Era."" ""So you have this whole span of... "" ""Of wars." "Right."" "Absorbed by his passion," "Theo has spent fifteen years and three million dollars creating Siebenberg House, the museum he and Miriam will leave to the public." ""This was used 2,000 years ago for crucifixion." "When you think of it..." "Now take this inkwell." "You wonder what letters might have been written by the owner of the house... "" "These artifacts will enable future generations to experience their connections to ancient Jerusalem." ""This here actually is carbonized wood from the fire of this house 2,000 years ago when the house was destroyed."" ""Don't touch it too often." "I see your fingers peeling if off"" ""Traces of history"" "Fifty years after the armies of Islam burst like a thunderclap across the desert to claim Jerusalem, a Muslim caliph built a shrine over the holy rock from which Muhammad had ascended to the Celestial Spheres." "This magnificent legacy has drawn the faithful for more than a thousand years." "Now, during Ramadan, the Muslim holy month of fasting and atonement, thousands of pilgrims journey to the Old City for one of the Islamic world's most important religious observances." "When prayers are over, the throng disperses through the narrow alleyways of the Muslim Quarter." "The family of Khalil Khalidi has lived in the Holy Land since the day 1 ,300 years ago when his ancestor rode into Jerusalem at the head of a column of Islamic warriors." "Khalil has a shop in the Muslim Quarter where he repairs furniture and antiques." "He specializes in mother-of-pearl inlay." "His neighbor, a blind oud player stops by to pick up the instrument that Khalil has repaired for him." "Through the centuries, his family has provided a succession of scholars to Jerusalem's Muslim community." "Among their proudest achievements and possessions is the Khalidi Library." "Founded in 1 900, it consists of their combined private collections:" "6,000 book and manuscripts in Arabic," "Persian, English, French, and Turkish." "Khalil's uncle and cousin refer to one of the many volumes written by their ancestors." ""My family came to Jerusalem with the Islamic liberation in the year 636 B.C. , 1 5 Hegira." "My family lived in Jerusalem all its time, but they were forced to Nablus for 88 years when the Crusaders occupied the city." ""They came back to Jerusalem with the famous Islamic leader," "Saladin al Ayubib." "They were the political and the religious rulers of Jerusalem."" "With his cousin he examines their remarkable family tree." "Each week Khalil goes to the historic Muslim cemetery outside the city walls." ""At the cemetery I go to pray for my ancestor Muhammad Ali Khalidi." "He was the governor of Jerusalem in the year 1 808." "When I go to visit his tomb, I feel that I am standing in front of a great man with deep roots in this country."" "During the month of Ramadan the Muslim Quarter pulse with activity after sundown." "Here, where ties are old deep, friend and family gather to commemorate their ancestors at a mawlid." "Songs celebrating the birth of the Prophet Muhammad are followed by a sumptuous meal, ending the fast they have observed since sunrise." "Within the walls of the Old City the ancient traditions resonate across the ages, binding the people of the present with their treasured past." "Ironically, it was a Roman emperor Constantine the Great, who adopted Christianity as the faith of his realm and assured the future of the religion." "His mother, the Empress Helena, journeyed here three centuries after Christ's death." "Over the sites where she believed Jesus had been crucified and buried," "Constantine erected the Church of the Holy Sepulchre." "Today the church is shared by six Christian sects:" "Greek, Armenian, Ethiopian and Syrian Orthodox," "Roman Catholic, and Coptic." "The Copts have a tiny chapel at the back of Christ's tomb;" "the front chapel belongs to the Greek Orthodox." "Among their holdings is the stone where Jesus is thought to have lain when He was taken from the cross." "Over the Rock of Calvary where Jesus was crucified the Greek Orthodox maintain a chapel." "Deep in the church near the base of the Rock of Cavalry is an Armenian Orthodox chapel dedicated to St. Helena." "Medieval pilgrims etched tiny crosses in the walls leading to the place where Helena found what she thought was the true Cross." "Painted on the bedrock is a ship with the Latin inscription" ""O Lord, we arrived."" "It indicates that long before this church was built pilgrims journeyed here, believing this to be the site of the Crucifixion." "A mud hut village atop the roof of the church is the only area which the Ethiopian Orthodox, one of the oldest Christian communities in the Holy Land, can claim." "Control of even this modest outpost is disputed in legal wrangles that began in Ottoman times." "Tense rivalries between sects have long raged over rights to this most sacred of Christian shrines." "Cloistered behind protective walls, the Greek Orthodox Patriarchate grew up next to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre." "Its monasteries, chapels, and administrative offices form a body comparable to a miniature Vatican." "As a boy, Father Timothy felt irresistibly drawn to join the monks who serve here." ""l decided to join the brotherhood because I like the aims that the brothers have in front of them, to safeguard the Holy Places, to venerate them, to have them ready for every Christian to come also and venerate."" "Chief Secretary of the Patriarchate and private secretary to the Patriarch," "Father Timothy recalls the path that led him here." ""When I was 1 4 years old, a priest came once to preach about Jerusalem." "For me that was the turning point of my life. I said," "'Jerusalem is the place I am going to be a priest.'" "My parents wouldn't even listen to that." "At last I said, 'lf you are not going to help me, I will never call you mother and father again.'" "Finally they decided to sign my passport." "Then I came here." "I said to myself that I should stay in Jerusalem for life." "I feel deeply every moment in Jerusalem that my life is connected with the life of Jesus."" "Timothy attended the seminary as a young man;" "like this generation of seminarians, he left his native land to dedicate his life to the holy shrines of Jerusalem." "Each of his days begins and ends in prayer his rededication to the compelling forces that induced him to come to the Holy City." ""Jerusalem is the city which fills my heart and should fill the hearts of all Christians with love and peace." "It would be easy to be a priest in my country, but here in Jerusalem I feel closer to God."" "Sequestered behind a huge gate that is unlocked each morning and locked again each night, the Armenian Quarter has existed for nearly a thousand years." "Life within still centers around the 1 2th-century Cathedral of Saint James." "A reminder of the days when the Muslim rulers forbade the ringing of church bells, the striking of this plank announces services." "Today the community gathers to commemorate a holocaust." "For the Armenians are a people whose ancient homeland has been ravaged, many of its citizens killed or scattered." "To Elia Kahavdjian, the service has special meaning, for he is a survivor of the holocaust." "For him, Jerusalem became a haven." "Sixty years ago, he arrived as an orphaned boy;" "now he is surrounded by his loving family." "Survivors lead the solemn procession to the Armenian cemetery." "They are living reminders of one million five hundred thousand who perished." "In 1 91 5, part of what had once been the Armenian Christian kingdom was under Ottoman rule." "Labeling the Armenians "infidels"" "and "a dangerous foreign element", the government began to kill their intellectuals." "Life had little value, as this magazine caption illustrates:" ""Five Dollars Buys a Pretty Armenian Slave Girl."" "Dscribing their policy as the" ""displacement of the Armenian population", the Ottoman Turks drove them on forced marches into the Syrian Desert." "The road was the path of death by disease, massacre and starvation." "Elia Kahvedjian remembers:" ""They took us through the Syrian Desert to Mardin." "We walked I don't know how many weeks, how many months walked." "Near Mardin they bring us to a place where all around it was many hills." "My mother, she says, 'My darling they are going to kill us." "I want to give my son to that Kurd which is coming." "Maybe he will remain alive."" "The Kurdish family fed him cleaned him up, and sold him at an auction to a Syrian Christian family." "The husband was an ironsmith, and six-year-old Elia worked the bellows for him." "When the man remarried, young Elia was put on the streets." "He drifted, begging, for a year, until the American Near East Relief organization placed him in an orphanage and, eventually, brought him to Jerusalem." "A son and daughter and their families gather today to remember the victims..." "and rejoice in Elia's survival." "Kahavedjian learned photography in the orphanage;" "he owns a photo supply store, custom laboratory, and portrait studio." "Although the family now resides outside the Old City, its life still revolves around the Armenian Quarter." "Here, as their parents did," "Kahvedjian's grandchildren learn Armenian culture, language, history, and geography." "To prepare for life in Jerusalem the children are also taught Arabic," "Hebrew, and English." ""..." "I amopeningtoe door I am shutting the door." "I am opening the window I am shutting the window." "I am knocking on the door I am pointing to the wall."" "His family thriving," "Elia Kahvedjian remembers the orphans club he and nine boys formed when, at age 1 4 he began to work." "The quarters where the orphans lived have become the Armenian Cultural club." "For Elia, Jerusalem has provided a refuge of warmth, friendship and opportunity ln his words," ""This is the happiest time of my life."" "The memory of Jesus and the miracle of" "His Resurrection live in Jerusalem every day." "Just as He joined the multitudes that journeyed to Jerusalem each year at Passover, throngs of pilgrims from around the globe come here at Holy Week to walk in His footsteps." "Following the path Jesus took from the Mount of Olives and the Garden of Gethsemane they enter the Old City." "Carrying crosses along the "Way of Sorrows"" "where tradition says He struggled in His agony, they connect with the ancient passion and eternal mystery of Christ." "In the hours before dawn on Easter Saturday, the flames of the lamps that light the Church of the Holy Sepulchre are extinguished." "When the door is opened, thousand of pilgrims press in to experience an Oriental ritual that has been repeated each year for centuries:" "the Miracle of the Holy Fire." "The Greek Orthodox Patriarch arrives, escorted by Father Timothy and columns of monks." "The tomb of Christ has been sealed." "When the seal is removed, the Patriarch will enter to determine if the Holy Fire, said to be sent down by God will burst forth this year." "Symbol of Christ's Resurrection, the Holy Flame is passed to the exultant crowd." "It is said that here Jesus once stood flanked by two thieves." "Here He was crucified and rose again." "In the precincts of the church that commemorates those events, the hearts of the believers are illuminated by the flames of faith." "High on the wall of the Muslim Quarter in the Old City is a house where American pilgrims seeking a spiritual haven, settled one hundred years ago." "Their granddaughter, Anna Grace Lind still follows, the path their quest began." "Her grandmother, Anna Spafford, survived a shipwreck that took the lives of her four daughters." "Later, when a son also died her husband wrote:" ""Jerusalem is where my Lord lived, suffered and conquered, and I, too, wish to learn... especially to conquer."" "Like her mother and grandmother," "Mrs. Lind has dedicated her life to serving the needy of Jerusalem." "Since 1 967, she has administered the Spafford Children's Center, which provides prenatal and baby clinics for mothers and children who might otherwise go without these services." "Mrs. Mary Franji the supervising nurse, has worked here for nearly forty years." "The grandmothers of some of these babies were children when she began." ""Dr. Amireh has quite a number of patients like the... "" ""The main goal of the Spafford Children's Center is to help improve the health of the children in the Old City." "They are mostly Moslems." "We have several Israeli specialists who come to our clinic." "And we feel that this is a very important phase of our work because they are helping in the reconciliation between the Jews and the Arabs." "It may be just a tiny seed but it is a seed that, we hope, brings forth fruit."" ""Okay, fine baby."" ""l live right on the city wall." "I feel it's important that quotation from Isaiah where it says, 'l have set watchmen on my walls O Jerusalem to pray day and night until I make Jerusalem a praise in the earth."'" ""..." "MakeJerusalemapraise in the earth." "" These timeless words from the Bible speak of an ideal Jerusalem a city of glory and peace." "In 1 985 the City of David Archeological Garden is opened." "Amid tangible proof of its Biblical past," "Mayor Teddy Kollek has come to speak of Jerusalem in our time." "Aragmatic and sensitive to human needs, this remarkable man has retained his office through the combined votes of both Arabs and Jews." ""... whenwearelivinginatime  when people want evidence, they want to see, they want to touch what they believe in, and not only believe in the abstract."" ""Jerusalem is a place where meaning survive, when names survive." "In Jerusalem everybody has a religion." "That doesn't mean that everybody goes to synagogue, or church, or the mosques." "But people believe in things." "The people who come to Jerusalem because it has a special meaning for them." "It's not like coming to another city." "We try to give people a feeling they live in a city which belongs to everybody, where everybody has his particular past, and his particular history." "Everybody who lives in Jerusalem tries to link up with the past Jews, Christians Moslems."" ""The most important thing about Jerusalem is its people in their variety." "It should remain in that variety, one should protect that variety." "The people who live here, they are the factor that is most important."" "Through the generations, thousands of human beings have been thrust together to live out their lives in the vibrant microcosm that is the Old City of Jerusalem." "Bound by their fierce connection to the city, despite their differences, the pressures of the years, of violence and suffering, the resilience of these people and the city itself has preserved its timeless qualities." "Even in our ear of materialism and uncertainty, the concepts of love, rebirth brotherhood, and peace still shine forth from within the walls of Jerusalem." "It has been called Morning of the World" "Heaven on Earth and The Last Paradise" "Born of the fiery volcanic eruptions" "Bali is one of the chain of islands that stretches between Southeast of Asia and Australia" "On this isolated dot of land an extraordinary civilization developed which remains unique on earth" "Here, vibrant religious beliefs find expression in music dance, art and rituals created to please the gods and placate and demons of the spirit realm" "Admiring visitors have long feared this culture was doomed" "But the Balinese select what they desire from the outside world while clinging to their age-old ways" "Everything remains centered on a religion practiced only here° ° ° and life itself continues to be lived as a dance of devotion" "Rooted in cults of ancient magic fostered by rites of a mystical religion it is a pageant constantly recreated by its artists" "Bali, masterpiece of the gods" "In the beginning there was nothing" "All was emptiness" "Then, say the old manuscripts a turtle floating on the ocean was created" "and resting upon it the island of Bali" "High in the skies were the flaming heavens of the ancestors and over all, the realm of the gods" "The depths were inhabited by demons of the underworld ln the middle world dwelt the people" "Early migrations added Malaysian and Polynesian bloodlines to the indigenous population" "As the centuries passed people and ideas swept in from India" "China, and Java" "Separated from Java by a strait of just two miles this speck of land 90 miles wide" "60 miles long is the only remaining stronghold of the Hindu faith in the Indonesian archipelago" "In Denpasar, the capital the traditional and the new collide head-on" "Unquestionably the city is changing as it attempts to deal with congestion pollution and overpopulation problems common to urban areas everywhere" "But the people adapt skillfully" "While utilizing material objects and technology from the modern world they hold fast to the powerful traditions that give meaning to their lives" "Some 1 200 years ago" "Hindu thought first fired the Balinese imagination" "The flames of belief were fanned as successive tides of Hindu influence washed over Bali from Java and India" "From its precepts the Balinese fashioned their unique religion Agama Hindu" "According to its teachings the priestly class is the highest of Bali's four castes" "The high priest of Kamenuh begins each day reciting magic formulas accompanied by ritual gestures to prepare holy water" "It is used in such profusion that the Balinese fondly call Agama Hindu "the religion of holy water."" "For the Balinese life is only apart of a never ending cycle of death and rebirth onto the same family one step in the soul's long process of evolution" "Every newborn comes into this world directly from heaven and is therefore, treated with the reverence due a god" "The high priest and his priestess wife officiate at the rite that marks the 1 05th day of a baby's life" "Until today the baby was still so close to heaven that she belonged to the deities" "She was not yet a human beings she did not even have a name" "A temple priest purifies her and magic symbols are inscribed on the petals of a flower to protect her" "While bound to the spiritual realm she was never allowed to touch the impure earth" "Now, her feet touch the ground for the first time" "Relatives take gifts symbolic of riches from a vessel filled with holy water and put them on her" "This ceremony symbolizes the beginning of the human struggle" "The baby is now her mother's child" "Rice is the divine gift that sustains life on earth" "About half the island's population make their livelihood farming the sculpted rice terraces they call " steps of the gods"" "Embraced by the ice fields are thousands of villages and hamlets where most of Bali's two-and-a-half million people live" "In these tightly-knit communities every married man is obliged to belong to the village ward or banjar, and work for the common good" "Like generations of their ancestors before them" "Ketut Kantor and his cousin" "Made Tubuh, were born in the village of Batuan" "They live and work side by side" "Mrs. Kantor was born here too she met her future husband when she was six years old" "When they married she moved into his family compound" "Behind its enclosing wall the compound is laid out according to a prescribed pattern" "By night its open pavilions are used for sleeping by day for family activities" "The villages of Batuan is renowned for its artists" "Mr. Kantor observes" ""ln Batuan most people participate in the arts" "Without art, people would not be normal"" "Each person must have a feeling for art painting, dance, even working in the rice fields"" "Fifty years ago the renowned American anthropologist Margaret Mead noted that the arts are part and parcel of the daily life of the Balinese as much as the village community or the irrigation system" "The compound is a little universe complete with everything from a family shrine to a fruit and vegetable garden" "Bananas and other fruits, coffee and vanilla are grown here" "Little is wasted" "Long ago I studied weaving with my mother I began when I was about eight years old" "Some of the things I weave are given to my children to wear to the temple" "I very much enjoy making offerings because since I was a child I was attracted to the decorations" "Making them is not really work" "Our belief in God makes it pleasurable" "Mr. Tubuh's daughter, Deni has come from her home next door to help" "Soon she will move here she and the Kantors' eldest son plan to marry" "Everyday the woman place offerings throughout the compound to appease the gods and spirits" "These, made of rice dough are specially prepared for a temple celebration" "After school village boys congregate at the Kantors' home to learn to dance ln Bali children dance like American youngsters play baseball" "Kantor has been dancing at religious festivals since he was a boy" "His sons are accomplished dancers, too" "But today they play gamelan the shimmering music of gongs metallophones, cymbals, and drums that accompanies all religious and theatrical events" "Mr. Kantor's father the late Nyoman Kakul was one of the most famous Balinese dancers of his day" "He also taught dance to many of the royal families" "Recalling historic battles the baris dance emulates the fierce poses and frightening expressions of the warrior" "Teaching dance" "Kantor fullfills his obligation to his community and his father's legacy" "A system of water temples high in the mountains coordinates rice farming for the entire island" "The farmers are organized into subaks age-old cooperatives that insure even the lowest terraces receive their share of water" "Mr. Kantor's father bought rice paddies with money he earned touring world capitals in a Balinese dance troupe" "My father taught me how to read the fields use the cows and the best time to plant" "When we work and prepare the land it unifies and makes us one with the land" "As with every major event in Balinese life a propitious day is selected for the seedlings to be planted" "Rituals will ensure protection by the deities and the rice will be watched as closely as a developing child" "Every morning and again when the day's work is done the Balinese baths in village or local streams" "For centuries the highly productive rice-growing system has freed the relentlessly creative Balinese to perfect the arts that serve their community" "On an auspicious night" "Mr. Kantor will present topeng a masked dance-drama for his ancestral gods" "With offerings he requests permission from the ancestors to perform and use the masks" "He says" "These are sacred masks that were used by my father gifts from priest and kings" "Some are 200 years old" "The first time I performed outside my village my father arranged for a special ceremony for my thoughts and feelings to become one with the masks" "When my father died I dreamed he asked me to dance at the temple I took this mean that he gave me permission to wear his masks" "The masks represent historic characters prime ministers and kings as well as clowns" "With them he enacts stories based on Balinese chronicles" "Before I perform I often dream of my father when I dance we dance together" "As stories of the past echo into the present the children learn the history of their island thus binding the generations together" "While pleasing the gods" "Kantor's dance provides him and the community with spiritual enrichment" "The success of human endeavor depends on continually keeping the worlds of men gods and demonic powers in balance" "Communion with divine is made possible through temple celebrations" "Traditionally art has not been created as the expression of the individual but as a group effort to serve the gods and society" "The Balinese have no word for art" "Yet entire villages are made up of families of rice farmers who are also brilliant sculptors dancers, musicians, and painters" "The villages of Mas has long been famous as a community of wood-carvers lda Bagus Anom is a mask-maker as were his father and grandfather" "Anom himself is a masked dancer so he has a deep understanding of the qualities with which a good ritual mask must be endowed ln Bali we can see two kinds of masks" "One mask is for decoration" "So when we start a mask like this" "... andI finishit" "But the mask has no power no soul, no spirit" "That's one" "Another one is the mask that has a spiritual or in Bali we believe the mask has a soul" "So if I make a mask like that the first time cutting the wood I must find a good day like a full moon, new moon" "And then when the mask is finished we make an offering and then bring it to the temple and the priest calls the spirits" "So a lot of it is with the religion activity" "The most difficulty to make a mask is to keep character, spirit, soul lf you want to make a minister you must keep the soul the character like a minister lf you make a king you have to keep the soul to the mask like a king" "So you need to know the story behind the mask" "When I am making a mask when I am carving a mask I am already thinking about the movement and the music, the melody" "So, like music, Carving, and dancing you must have a connection with each other" "So when I'm carving a mask I be thinking about the movement" "Anom continues to create expressive masks for religious performances" "He also makes original and inventive masks for international art collectors who eagerly seek his craftsmanship" "As foreigners became more interested in Balinese creations art entered a new era in this century" "But the connection between art and religion endures" "In the village of Pengosekan headman Dewa Nyoman Batuan exhibits and sells his artworks and those of his villagers" "Batuan reflects on the nature of Balinese art" "Paintings start form religion because everything is coming from God" "Everything is coming from God" "Because when we make painting first we must think about God" "Painting makes men closer to God" "Bima is a character form the Mahabharata a 2000 year old Hindu narrative poem ln this painting that illustrates the Balinese cosmos he stands on the turtle that balances the world" "Below, hell is full of demons mythical creatures and miserable humans" "Bima must rescue his father's soul from hell and secure its admission to heaven" "The painting mirrors the pervasive influence of Agama Hindu on the arts" "A thousand years ago the flickering movements of the wayang kulits or shadow play, were brought from Java" "Puppets cast their shadows on a screen as they are manipulated by a mystic storyteller" "The cinematic images he creates are a favorite entertainment comparable to our TV" "His assistants help set up the puppets noble character on the right evil characters on the left" "Based on Hindu epics this traditional form of spiritual education also incorporates issues of topical concern to the villagers" "Most of the play is presented in classical Javanese a language not understood by most of the audience" "Only the clowns the characters with movable mouths speaks Balinese" "They reinforce the story with the help of slapsticks humors" "The performance wtll last far into the night" "At the end, evil will be vanquished the cosmos restored to order" "At Pangarebongan Temple on the outskirts of the capital a festival links the worlds of men and spirits in one of the most mysterious of all Balinese rites" "A barong, mythical protector of mankind is escorted into the temple" "Within, scores of boys and men prepared to enter trance ln her 1 939 landmark film" "Margaret Mead documented this fascinating phenomenon" "Rangda the witch is the Balinese embodiment of evils" "Each of her followers carries a dagger called a kris" "After an altercation between Rangda and the Barong the Barong tries to revive his entranced followers" "When all have fallen into trance they turn their daggers on themselves" "The participants believe fully in trance and the protection of Rangda and the Barong" "The daggers will not pierce their skin no matter how hard they push" "Trance is an altered state like hypnosis in which the Balinese put aside their usual decorum lt is genuine and still widely practiced" "Trance mediums pray for the spirits of gods and demons to enter them" "Once in trance they are believed to be in direct contact with the spirit world" "They are led outside the temple by warrior dancers who wear black and white symbolic of good and evil" "Rangda appears" "Simply putting on the spiritually powerful masks causes those who wear them to fall onto trance" "Through this communication between the gods and the living the deities demonstrate their presence and power" "Such rituals have kept the Balinese world in harmony for generations" "As foreign artist and anthropologists spread the word of Bali' splendors in the 1 920's and '30s a few hundred foreigners came here each year ln 1 969 the government built a jet airstrip" "The next year, 24,000 people visited" "Two decades later the number had jumped to 400,000" "Fearful of uncontrolled growth the government has restricted large hotels to the southern tip of the island" "After a single highrise hotel was built a law was passed to regulate construction" "No new building can be higher than a coconut palm" "Some visit Bali just for the beaches" "At the same time many discriminating visitors come to Bali for what has been called cultural tourism" "They have become patrons of the arts" "Their interest in Balinese creations is a source of pride for local artists who have found a new source of income by simply continuing to do they have always done so well" "Since the 1 920's, Balinese painters while retaining native subject matter have found inspiration in the works of visiting Western artists" "Experimentation in themes, materials and approach has resulted in a fusion of folk art and modern style" "Sanur Beach has been the site of invasions by the Dutch the Japanese, and more recently, tourist" "Despite inevitable change the people retain their village lifestyle" "Eleven- year-old Wayan Mastri and her schoolmates live in Sanur lt was the Indonesian government that opened education to girls" "Today, education is compulsory for all with parents required to pay a small fee" "On Mondays school begins with the singing of the national anthem in the Indonesian language an important element in unifying the world's fifth largest nation made up of diverse cultures languages, and religions" "While other classes are taught in the Bahasa Indonesian language religion is taught in Balinese" "Just steps away from a popular beach yet worlds away" "Mastri and her family live in a simple compound" "They work together making kites to supplement the modest living her father earns as a fisherman lt takes a full day to craft one kite" "They are sold to tourists for about $1 0 each" "The Balinese themselves are very fond of kites" "Mastri's younger brother and sister take their own gaily painted birds to dance in the wind above Sanur Beach" "At festivals celebrated on each temple's anniversary the gods are called down from their home above the mountains and greeted with elaborate offerings" "Mastir and her family join the stream of worshippers at the Temple of the Dead in Sanur" "By cleaning and decorating the temple" "As well as preparing offerings everyone has shared in creating the festival" "The gods will remain on earth for these days the temple alive with the prayers of the entire village" "When the festival ends the gods will depart until next year when they will be summoned again" "For most Balinese the sea is a terrifying place a realm inhabited by demons of the underworld" "Remarkably" "Bali is one of the new island societies oriented away from the water" "But when the tide is right" "Mastri's father and brother brave the danger" "They have no boat and only a minimum of equipment" "The boy is learning from his father how to catch the tropical fish that provide most of the family's income" "He will sell the fish to an exporter for a few cents each" "In the compound they prepare the fish for shipment to Australia" "The Bags are filled woth oxygen for the flight" "The fish will be sold at high prices to shops that cater to tropical fish fanciers" "At the Tandjung Sari hotel on Sanur Beach" "Mastri and other local youngsters are taught traditional dances" "The management has created a foundation to preserve music and dance" "They believe that since hotels are replacing rice fields as the economic base here they have a responsibility to the villagers" "Every Saturday night Mastri and the others are transformed from school girls into court dancers" "Legong Kraton its story drawn from 1 3th century Java was once performed only in royal palaces" "Traditionally legong is danced by girls who have not yet reached the age of puberty" "Every performance is preceded by rituals to insure that the spirit world will be benevolent" "Contemporary anthropologist Philip McKean observes" "Often the "young find their identity as Balinese framed by the mirror that tourism holds up to them" "This has led many of them to celebrate their own traditions with continued vitality" "This legong portrays a kidnapped princes lost in the forest a heroic prince, and an omen-bearing bird" "Dances learned here are also performed in the banjar and village temples" "The dancers receive a small token payment" "But their deepest reward is in filling a spiritual need in themselves and their community" "There is growing awareness in the Balinese of the priceless value of their culture and its potential vulnerability" "ASTl, the performing arts college in the capital is under the direction of Dr. I." "Made Bandem" "Son of a dance master he learned to dance and play gamelan instruments in his village" "Later he earned advanced degrees at UCLA and Wesleyan University" "ASTl has 400 students and 60 faculty members" "Dr. Bandem also invites dance master from the villages to share with students the diverse styles found throughout the island." "Dr. Bandem" "Dr. Bandem..." "Our curriculum in ASTl is really a combination between ideals of villages and also modern school" "ASTl is not separated from the society to which it belongs" "The subjects they learned at school is not only technique, music, and dance but also learning anthropology, history and other related cultural background so they can strengthen their appreciation of Balinese artist" "In the countryside the meticulously tended rice terraces yield their golden bounty as they have for centuries" "Working together the Kantor family gathers the stalks one by one" "Mr. Kantor says" "Rice is a very great gift from god" "Rice gives life to the Balinese people" "For the Kantors this marks the successful culmination of another cycle" "A ceremonial dish delivered throughout the banjar serves as the invitation to a unique rite of passage" "This is the tooth-filling ceremony a ritual that symbolically concludes the parent, child relationship" "The high priest has blessed his instruments to make the operation painless" "After death one may be denied entrance to the spirit world if his teeth have bot been filled" "The priest files the points of the canine teeth to form a straight line" "This diminishes what the Balinese consider "animal qualities"" "greed, anger, and jealousy" "The fillings will be buried in the family temple" "Marriage is the final initiation into the community" "All Balinese know their most important duty is to raise a son who, one day, will perform the cremation ceremony for his parents" "From her home next door" "Deni walks to the Kantors' compound for the rite that will unite her with their eldest son" "A priest purifies the couple with holy water and prayer" "They walked in a circle three times" "Deni balances a market basket" "Wayan carries food to suggest how he will provide" "The moment when Deni breaks the string signals the end of their lives as individuals their entrance to a new world as a couple" "Age-old gestures insure fertility" "In the Kantors' family shrine" "Deni takes leave of her ancestral gods" "From this day forward she embraces those of her husband" "All over the island villagers gather at their banjars to prepare for a momentous event" "A fine cremation is the life long ambition of very Balinese" "But a grand send-off requires the work of many hands and much money" "Mass cremations for which the entire village shares expenses are the answer" "Teams of artisans fashion sarcophagi for the great celebrations" "In the Kantors' village the rhythm of the kulkul announces that cremation ceremonies will soon begin" "The people have spent years saving for this day ln the graveyard villagers..." "... custom they may be buried for 25 years or even longer, before the all-important cremation" "Mr. Kantor reflects" "As we dig up our ancestors' remains we remember how they helped is and gave is a good life" "Now we are without them" "We are very saddened" "Mr. Kantor's mother in law died six years ago" "Now her bones are carefully arranged in a white cloth" "Village men and boys assemble to carry the bodies a symbol of their loyalty to the deceased" "The families carry wood for the cremation pyres" "Strict caste rules dictate the shape of the sarcophagus" "Because Mrs. Kantor's mother was a member of the Sudra caste her sarcophagus is shaped like a mythical elephant, fish" "The raucous, joyful journey to the cremation grounds begins" "The sarcophagus are turned in all directions to confuse the souls of the departed and ensure that that will not wander back to their homes" "Carrying holy water and offerings they have spent weeks preparing the Kantor koin the other families at the cremation grounds" "Again, the remains are purified" "Offerings also serve as fuel" "Only when the body is destroyed is the soul free to be reunited with the Supreme Being" "This act is the most sacred duty of every Balinese" "Our greatest happiness occurs whenever we are successful in carrying out a good cremation and freeing our ancestors from the connection to earth" "This type of ceremony does not cause us sadness but creates a moment of happiness" "Cremations are a ceremony to free the souls of our ancestors a way of ending a long life and at the same time beginning a new one" "The ashes are taken to the sea the final act in the cremation that marks the passage from this life to the next" "And between incarnations the soul resides in a place just like Bali but devoid of all trouble and illness" "In the endless round of life by carefully discharging their sacred duties the Balinese have kept their world in balance for centuries" "The effects of modernization on contemporary Bali are profound Paradoxically tourists help preserve and renew the arts while propelling the Balinese toward a share of the wealth that all developing communities require" "Ever since they first arrived on these shores admiring outsiders have feared that foreign ideas might swamp this finely tuned society" "But while the 20th century has given the Balinese new ways of looking at their world it has also renewed their determination to preserve their ancient heritage" "As long as they remain bound together by ties of community, economics religious rituals, and ancestral loyalty" "Bali will remain an oasis of beauty and belief--- the masterpiece of the gods" "In the courtyard of Madrid's Royal Palace the King's Guard recalls an era of regal splendor, privilege and might in Spain's past" "Viva!" "But the saga of Juan Carlos is distinctly modern" "When he became king in 1 97 5 he took the reins of government from Europe's last fascist dictator" "He was to inherit a land touched by forces unlike the rest of Europe° ° ° a land chosen by destiny to become the greatest power on earth ° ° ° then doomed to lapse into decades of decline and stagnation" "In the extraordinary reign of Juan Carlos" "Spain has leapt into the 20th century" "Un, dos, y° ° °" "But as new ideas concepts, and values flood in the Spanish people cherish the ways that are uniquely theirs" "Mindful of the grandeur of their past even as they create a new unknown future they nurture and treasure the timeless traditions that illuminate the Soul of Spain" "Spain." "Dramatic, mysterious, complex" "Greatness and tragedy resonate in its soul lt gave the world the essence of chivalry in Don Quixote° ° ° the quintessence of cruelty in the Inquisition" "Long after the rest of Europe industrialized" "Spain remained poor and agrarian" "Hereditary noblemen and wealthy families still owned much of the land controlled it by the laws and privileges of their class" "Inward looking the people proudly clung to their ancient heritage, customs, and beliefs" "Who are they?" "Where did they come from?" "What shaped the Spanish soul?" "Lying astride the Atlantic and Mediterranean on the Iberian Peninsula" "Spain has been called "that country ripped from hot Africa soldered crudely to inventive Europe" "First settled by wandering tribes from Europe and North Africa it would be colonized by Phoenicians" "Carthaginians, and Greeks" "By 1 9 B.C." "the triumphant Romans dominated the peninsula" "They would leave their indelible imprint of architecture, law, and language" "Later, Roman missionaries would introduce Christianity" "Led by Arab warriors in 7 1 1 Berbers from North Africa swept into Spain" "Soon their rule and Muslim religion gripped the land" "Working side by side" "Muslim, Christian and Jewish scholars relit the torch of learning that led Europe out of the Dark Ages" "Cordoba, capital of Muslim Spain became Europe's most cultured city boasting half a million inhabitants when London and Paris were only villages" "But through the eight centuries of Muslim rule the Christians waged war to reconquer the land until only Granada survived as a Muslim stronghold ln 1 492 the last Muslim king surrendered his crown to the Catholic sovereigns Ferdinand and Isabella" "Through war and lnquisition Spain would expel not only the Muslims but all Jews who refused to be baptized" "Seeking a westward route to the riches of India" "Ferdinand and Isabella would provide" "Christopher Columbus with financial support" "On the 33rd day of his voyage" "Columbus landed in the New World and claimed it in the name of the Spanish crown" "Spain would conquer huge empires in the Americas" "Gold wrested from native peoples would finance wars in faraway Europe° ° ° and Spain would become the world's mightiest power" "But two centuries later its navy defeated its empire in shambles" "Spain's era of supremacy was over" "A long eclipse had begun" "1 936" "With the Second Republic torn by political turmoil" "Spain is plunged into bloody civil war" "An alliance of army officers, monarchists and the Catholic Church joins the fascists in rebellion" "They are supported by Hitler and Mussolini in a conflict that becomes a dress rehearsal for the Second World War" "The death toll from combat and executions will cost the nation half a million lives" "1 939" "With the fall of Madrid" "General Francisco Franco commander of the victorious Nationalist troops assumes powers greater than those of any monarch in Spain's history" "Nationalist, rightist, and authoritarian the dictator Franco embarks on 36 years of repressive control" "When World War I I rages across Europe the wily Franco manages to keep Spain out of the conflict" "The role of women remains static circumscribed by church tradition and male domination" "Physically shattered and spiritually crippled in the long aftermath of war the nation will need years to heal" "Franco orders construction of the Valley of the Fallen to commemorate the Civil War dead" "Although named E1 Caudillo" "The Leader for life he knows that someday he too will find his final resting place here" "Believing a monarchy would best serve Spain" "Franco selects as his successor the grandson of the last king" "Born in exile" "Juan Carlos first set foot on Spanish soil at age ten" "His father legitimate heir to the throne had acquiesced to Franco's desire to educate the boy" "The prince would spend four years in the Army, Navy and Air Force academies attend university and complete his studies at a number of government ministeries" "1 97 5" "The nation observes the end of an era" "For nearly four decades Franco had made all of Spain's important decisions" "Juan Carlos, rarely seen except in Franco's shadow was perceived to be molded in his image" "Would the nation again erupt in rebellion?" "Juan Carlos swore his allegiance to the constitution and the people" ""Desde la motion en el recuerdo Franco, viva elrey!"" "Viva!" "Viva Espagna!" "Viva!" "Perceptive and intelligent he had privately concluded Spain must embark on a new course secretly he had prepared himself for it" "To everyone's surprise he deftly led his people from dictatorship to democracy" "A king who pays taxes lives modestly and is an avid sports enthusiast he soon became the most popular man in the country" "His greatest test came in 1 981 when parliament was invaded by Civil Guards commanded by a right-wing colonel" "As an amazed public watched on television the colonel called for a return to a Francoist regime" "Working through the night as parliament was held hostage the king obtained pledges of loyalty from his principal military leaders and quelled the attempted coup" "His reassuring address to the people included these words" "The Crow° ° °cannot tolerate actions attempting to interrupt by force democratic process" "Under his leadership a vital and dynamic" "New Spain has become an economic success story" "The nation is an eager new member of the European Community its thirty-nine million citizens have a higher standard of living than ever in their history" "And there is freedom of religion, of expression" "The repression of old has evaporated" "A burst of growth has transformed the nation" "Every year Spain attracts 50 million tourists more than the country's total population" "They bring billions of dollars new ideas and customs" "The Spaniards once Europe's poor relations have become conspicuous consumers" "But behind the facade of modern Spain echoes of an older way of life still resonate" "In the same year that Franco died so did Don Fernando de la Camara one of the wealthy landowners who had supported the dictator" "Camar's presence can still be felt in the Seville apartment where his heir, Rocio, lives" "She is now head of her family's agricultural business" "As her father did" "Rocio grows wheat and sunflowers and raises bulls to fight in the ring" "Every year the new calves are rounded up for branding" "In this tough and traditionally male-oriented atmosphere" "Rocio has found acceptance" "Of course it's harder being a woman but society is changing and nowadays there are no real problems, big problems" "If I were a man I'd wrestle those calves but as a woman, I can't" "But there are many important things to do on a ranch where being a woman makes no difference at all" "Diego Reina has been employed by the Camaras for more than 20 years" "He helped raised Rocio and when her father died continued as foreman" "He has had other job offers but he respects and admires Rocio" "He says he will never leave." "Unlike his peers of 25 years ago" "Diego receives an adequate income has his own house and can look forward to retirement with social security" "Today Diego has the right to vote but like many others still prefers the old ways" "Personally, I felt more at ease under Franco than now" "Nobody bothered anybody" "You could bed down in the fields anywhere" "Now you can't" "In the last few years before Franco died life was peaceful in the country" "We ate well in the country and we could save a peseta or two" "Who saves anything nowadays?" "Whether Juan, Pedro or Antonio is in charge the land is the same" "We live off the land and die for the land lt's always the same, always the same" "Diego's land is Andalucia ln this southernmost region of Spain under a brilliant sun and sky olive trees and vineyards have thrived for thousands of years" "Only here in all the world in a small area of chalky moisture-retaining soil is true sherry wine produced" "In 1 7 30 a French farmer founded a sherry dynasty in the town of Jerez de la Frontera" "Today, the heirs of Pedro Domecq are the second largest producers of sherry in the world part of an elite referred to as "sherry barons"" "Still, even at age 7 7" "Jose Ignacio Domecq enjoys driving to work on a second-hand motorbike purchased from his chauffeur" "At the manor house that overlooks some of the Domecq vineyards he meets his eldest son" "The manor was built around an ancient tower used during the Middle Ages to send smoke signals to Africa only 65 miles away" "It provides a vantage point from which the Domecqs can confer about the 4,300 acres of vineyards they cultivate here" "One day the younger Jose Ignacio will take control of their wine and brandy empire is Spain and the Americas" "Domecq produces 1 0 million liters of sherry annually" "The most vital element in creating a distinctive sherry is the human factor° ° ° specifically, the human nose" "In the bodegas where sherry matures the Domecqs exercise the delicate skill which has made the family masters of the art of wine making for 250 years" "We maintain our standardization of quality throughout the different generations" "My father is known in the wine world ° ° °" "° ° °for the nose not only because of the size of it that is you have seen rather big but because he's considered one of the° ° °" "° ° ° most important specialists in Europe in the science of wine" "The unique quality of sherry derives from the solera system" "New sherry is blended with more mature sherry to take on its characteristics" "Fortified with grape brandy and repeatedly blended it ages in oak casks until it reaches maturity" "The most venerable bodega holds casks of rate sherry dedicated to the famous" "Among them is one once reserved for George Iv" "King of England" "A cask was dedicated to Napoleon in 1 81 2" "And after the battle of Trafalgar" "Admiral Lord Nelson's body was shipped to England perfectly preserved in a cask of brandy and sherry" "At his nearby estate one of the 500 relatives who are shareholders in the Domecq corporation indulges in another family passion" "For 20 years Alvaro Domecq like his father before him was famed for his prowess in the Spanish art of bullfighting on horseback" "Today, he raises fine Andalucian horses and hulls to fight in the ring" "Bullfighting was once the leisure pastime of gentlemen on horseback" "Farmhands assisted with their capes" "Modern bullfighting performed by professionals on foot began only two centuries ago" "Bullfights are the highlight of the annual April Fair in nearby Jerez" "For this special event six local breeders each enter a superior bull in the competition for Best of the Year" "Domecq is here sharing the crowd's anticipation and hoping his bull will bring honor to the family's reputation as breeders" "Victor Mendes the matador who will face that bull prepares for his test as he dons the traditional suit of lights" "The bullring manager and other well-wishers come bearing the only protection they can offer "Suerte" good luck" "As his sword handler makes final adjustments" "Mendes reflects on the trial ahead lt's now a fight or game between the rational and the irrational if is possible to arrive to the death the death of the bull" "But sometimes, the death of the man" "To the Spaniard the bullfight is not a game but a revered ritual not a sport but an art" "Its origins can be traced to pagan sacrifices and to ancient Greek and Roman games" "In its beauty, glorification of bravery and disdain for death the bullfight embodies traditional values of Spanish life" "More than spectacle this is mythic theater in which the drama of life and death is reenacted culminating in the predictable but by no means certain death of a noble beast." "In recent years it has lost popularity and there is increasing disquiet among a minority of Spaniards about the morality of their "national fiesta" "But for some it remains an irreplaceable thread in the fabric of their heritage" "As the afternoon turns to evening crowds begin to gather at the fairgrounds" "In this weeklong celebration women wear traditional Andalucian dresses friends meet, sip sherry, make music, and dance" "The region of Extremadura in western Spain has always been harsh and ungiving" "For decades Azuaga like many small agricultural and mining towns has slowly but steadily lost its population" "The future looks bleak unless young people can be persuaded to stay" "Among the few professionals here is a husband-and-wife team of doctors assigned to the local clinic" "Their 1 6-year-old daughter, Alicia feels trapped in the stifling atmosphere" "This is a small town" "There isn't much for me to do I'm not sure whether so stay or leave I'll probably leave but I still haven't decided" "The lack of entertainment career opportunities even participation in sports all make teenagers yearn for greater freedom" "The old ways hold no allure for the young generation" "When Alicia's parents accept job offers in Seville she is thrilled to go with them" "She will become one of the thousands who seek new lives in big cities" "Spain's new constitution carefully spells out the equality of opportunity for men and women" "After high school" "Alicia hopes to join the growing ranks of working women" ""Then after a couple of years when I've mastered that job I'll study business management and after that join a big company" "I'd work my way to the top and eventually have my own company" "As a businesswoman I'd travel I'd like to travel a lot in my work" "Today, many women are entering the ranks of leadership in government politics, and commerce" "The unemployment rate of women is twice that of men" "But like Alicia they pursue an alluring dream" "Spain's greatest contemporary poet Garcia Lorca described flamenco as deeper than the heart of the one creating it and the voice singing it lt comes from the first sob and the first kiss" "Flamenco was born in Andalucia when Arabic and Spanish music mingled with the songs of the Jews" "The gypsies were to abopt it and in their wanderings carry it throughout Spain" "Francisca Sadornil" "La Tati as she is known was born here in Madrid" "She learned flamenco dancing from gypsies married a gypsy in her youth and remains among the rare outsiders accepted by them artistically and socially" "A professional dancer from the age of 1 2" "La Tati has dedicated her life to flamenco" "And flamenco has taken La Tati from a working-class neighborhood to the concert stages of the world" "She reminisces" "I can't remember a time when I didn't dance" "I was born on Toledo Street and there all the neighbors were Andalucians and gypsies" "At No.5 of the Plaza de la Cascorro was Quica the dancing professor of Seville I went to Quica when I was about seven I never paid for a dancing class because there was not money in my family I slept at the academy on a mattress between chairs" "I helped Quica clean the academy and did the errands and this way I learned to dance" "Today, she passes her knowledge to a new generation" "She reflects on teaching" "With recording singers and movie actors can leave their way of singing and playing music but with dancing it's a little more difficult" "If you don't do it through teaching you can't leave a school of dance" "This is why I like teaching very much" "La Tati is highly sought as a teacher" "But as an artist she gets her deepest satisfaction from performance" "My life is shaped on the stage" "All that I feel or live for, everything all my suffering and all my glory all my life is on the stage" "She rehearses for a tour that will take her to France" "The quality of flamenco is to get out of a difficult situation of crying and of sorrow to get into an explosion of happinesse and a feeling born in the soul and the heart" "Flamenco is an expression of the soul" "The guitar is the instrument of Spain ln the working-class neighborhood where he grew up" "Arcangel Ferbabdez has hand-crafted guitars for 36 years" "I had my first job at 1 1 as a furniture maker" "Later I became fond of playing the guitar I started to play flamenco" "Then I met a great maestro of guitar making one of the best in the world" "Since I had found that the artistic environment was not much to my liking I found myself turning to guitar making" "Only fine imported woods are used to create the body of the guitar" "They are carefully heated and shaped as the craftsman gradually brings the instrument to life" "To make a good handcrafted guitar you need at least one month" "The difference between handcrafted and infactory guitars are many starting with marterials" "The materials we use are quite expensive" "You must have knowledge of the trade and put live into your work" "For me that is the secret for making a good guitar" "Nothing else" "Signed and numbered by the craftsman a finished instrument may cost from two to ten thousand dollars" "Through this artist's expression the guitar gives voice to the Spanish soul" "During the decades of Franco's dictatorship the Catholic Church was able to legally enforce its rigid doctrines" "Even between engaged couples premarital contact was forbidden by the strictures of traditional courtship" "Among the middle and upper classes a single woman could not go out without a female chaperone to watch over her" "Today young woman go out alone and party at bars until 4 a. m" "Agatha Ruiz de la Prada is among the contemporary Spanish women who now define their own roles in society" "Agatha lives in a quiet Madrid suburb with her son" "Tristan, and the boy's father" "Her seemingly bourgeois home life is not quite what it appears" "My mother and father separate when I have more or less 1 2" "And my mother goes to live to Barcelona" "So for me it was very nice because I have two cities and two houses and I have always the liberty of choosing one or the other I have never believed in marriage" "Liberty is very important for me and marriage is something that I don't like" "Ruiz de la Prada is a designer and business woman" "These dolls, whose costumes she creates, sold over a million in Spain alone last year" "She also designs highly original clothing" "When I was little I wanted to be a painter" "One thing that I have ever hate is the big distance between a picture on a wall and the way that people live I think that you when you like some picture you must wear it." "No?" "And you must eat with it and you must sleep with it" "You must put it in your life No?" "Humorous and deliberately outrageous her design has brought her international recognition" "The impulse behind them in fact, springs from a traditionally Spanish attitude that of the rugged individualist" "Barcelona" "Spanish's largest seaport the nation's second city and industrial powerhouse" "Barcelona is also the center of a rich and highly original artistic tradition" "This legacy is evident everywhere° ° ° in a mosaic pavement created by the great Joan Miro° ° °" "A design created by Picasso in his self-imposed exile during the Franco years° ° °" "and the undulating curves of a facade by Antonio Gaudi" "A genius who used the sinuous forms of nature as the vocabulary for his architecture" "Gaudi was dubbed visionary-and madman" "Son of a coppersmith he was modest and self-effacing refused by the one woman to whom he proposed he would dedicate his life exclusively to architecture and God" "He maintained" "God continues creation through man ln 1 884 he began work in the Sagrada Familia the Expiatory Temple of the Holy Family lt would be his masterpiece" "But in 1 926 returning from evening church services to sleep in his workshop" "Gaudi was struck by a streetcar" "Three days later he died" "Thousands followed the funeral cortege to his final resting place the crypt of his unfurnished basilica" "Today, Gaudi's vision continues to take shape above him" "From the beginning construction has been funded by public donations" "Only some 50 artists and craftsmen are employed" "Architect Jordi Bonet like his father a specialist in the works of Gaudi has been entrusted with completion of the building" "As much a sculptor as an architect" "Gaudi preferred to make models rather than work from drawings" "Using them" "Bonet is able to continue according to Gaudi's concept" "A model of the nave the central part of the church reveals columns whose design was inspired by shapes found in nature" "They will support the ceiling of the nave filling the shell that has stood empty for over a century" "With all of these Gaudi original elements it is possible to continue it and to build in his place the nave" "But it is not so easy to continue it but I hope to have or to honor in the same spirit of Gaudi" "And for them we are working with all our forces to make the best" "Gaudi said the nave of this temple is a forest with the columns as the trees" "And then the light comes through this forest of columns little columns big columns lt's a forest" "Gaudi's dream was that this church would be a beacon of the Christian faith" "Every year hundreds of thousands from throughout the world visit his unfinished poem in stone a structure one architectural historian has called the greatest ecclesiastical monument of the last one hundred years" "Holy week." "Across the nation cities and villages ready for a ritual of faith that occurs in few places outside Spain and nowhere with more passion that in Seville" "Manolo Acosta dresses in the garb of an ancient religious brotherhood" "For me, Holy Friday is one of the fundamental things of my life..." "so important that I am thinking about that day the whole year" "With his brotherhood he will accompany sacred figures form their neighborhood church to Seville's cathedral and back" "Thousands gather in anticipation of the moment when a priceless, handcarved image of the Virgin emerges from the cathedral" "Platforms called pasos support lavish figures of the sorrowing Virgin Mother" "Christ, and scenes of his passion" "From Palm Sunday until Easter processions retrace the Stations of the Cross" "Proceeding blindly under the directions of a guide 30-40 bearers support the pasos which may weigh up to two tons" "Marching with their brotherhoods thousands of penitents atone for sins committed through the year" "They wear masks and hoods designed centuries ago to conceal the sinners from all but God" "As the people of Spain approach the 2 1 st century they seek to define their new identity strengthened by the timeless elements of Spanish life the ardor for spectacle and beauty the rich history, proud land and enduring traditions that are the soul of Spain" "India is a land of dreams" "Where images, however fleeting are remembered long after the journey's end" "The railway is her lifeline crossing not only distances" "But bridging the boundaries of her many cultures" "For over 900 million people the railway has become a great unifier" "over one-and-a-half million must work to keep it going" "The great Indian railway touches the lives of everyone" "For nothing is more a part of this country than the trains which are part of its soul" "Over a century ago the sound of the steam locomotive could be heard across the land as it rolled through the desert and the plains of India" "In those days villages and cities were isolated by vast distances and the coming of the train woul change them forever" "Legends were told of the great fire eater that walked on lines of steel and breathed white clouds of smoke" "Those who did not fear it came to see it for themselves ln remote outposts where there were no stations banyan trees often marked the train stop" "And people anticipated its arrival like the coming of a great ship" "There was always entertainment to greet the travelers celebrating the trip for themagical event that is was" "What had taken weeks by bullock cart could now be made in a matter of days" "The hero was the driver" "He was assigned one engine for life and cared for it as though it were a part of him making sure it was fed coal and watered lt was like a living creature preparing for the long journey ahead" "If there ever was a heart and soul of the railway it began here with these locomotives" "They were the symbol of the British Empire and held the romance of an age when men and machines united the country for the first time" "But this era couldn't last forever" "Now, the superfast express trains command the rails and are moving India into a new century" "The railway is a living legacy of the British, who dominated the subcontinent for nearly two hundred years" "They laid down the first rails in 1 850 and by Indian independence dozens of railways reached across hundreds of princely states and territories." "Today, all have been merged into one" "Stretching nearly 40,000 miles and connecting over 7,000 stations it is the largest railway under a single management in the world" "The frontier Mail, the Tamil-Nadu Express the Punjab Mail all long-distance trains, renowned in history" "But one of the oldest is the Grand Trunk Express and it travels nearly the length of the country" "Indians love to travel whether it be on a religious pilgrimage or to visit relatives far away" "They pack everything and bring everyone" "They can go anywhere in the country for less than seven dollars" "Space has a whole different meaning on an Indian train" "People like to sit next to each other talk and share stories" "And a stranger isn't a stranger for long" "More than 1 1 ,000 trains" "Travel through India everyday" "But it's in the three-tier second-class coaches that the real spirit of the country can be found" "If anyone wants to know what India is all about you could just travel in one of these trains and you could talk to people you see" "You'll actually meet people from different parts of the country and you can actually have a look into the various cultures you see, now there's a cultural diversity in India" "You can actually enjoy this cultural diversity traveling in such long trains say from which go from one end of the nation to the other end" "Such long trains you can enjoy if you are really interested you'll definitely you will experience it" "Every Indian train has ticketless passengers who are part of its character:" "gypsies, beggars, and sweeper boys who make their living earning tips between stations I meet every type of people here" "Maybe they are millionaires they are the poorest" "They are engineers, doctors, bankers" "Every type of persons I am meeting here" "And when I travel I talk I have an opportunity to talk to them make friendship with them" "We sometimes come closer to them and we become family friends for life" "For centuries explorers have been drawn to the east ln the 1 660's the British took possession of the strand of islands that curved into the Arabian Sea" "They would make them the great port city of Bombay" "Their Gateway of India still stands as a memory of their empire's former glory" "Bombay's now one of India's fastest-growing cities" "And the British presence seems unchanged at Victoria Terminus" "Opened in 1 888 it was built on the site of the first railway station" "But now it's the headquarters of Central the busiest of nine zones in the Indian railway" "From this historic place one of the most important me in the railway oversees his domain" "This is the seat of power of the General Manager" "Every morning" "Birendra Vishnu calls upon his officers to account for every detail in a monumental system" "From major accidents to minor delays nothing escapes his attention" "It was from this same office that the British ran their railway" "And with independence in 1 947 they turned it over to Indian leadership" "But now the G. M. controls a far more complex network with 200,000 men beneath him he runs 2,000 trains a day" "Ah Madhan" "What is happening today?" "What are your prospects of loading?" "Sir, yesterday, we made 8.5" "Alright, you just speak to C. M. E" "Your diesel utilization has slumped" "Your diesel utilization is slumped" "Your six-wagon balances in all the yards are heavy" "The stable loads are heavy Just speak to C. M. E." "Hello Madhan?" "Ah, Rambu Rao, Kutny shed for the last fifteen days it has been having very high failure rate" "Vishnu is more than a figurehead lf something goes wrong he shoulders the full responsibility" "And every month he makes it a point to leave his office and visit his men in the fiel" "Like a present-day maharaja" "Vishnu holds court in his private inspection coach with full kitchen staff in attendance and all the ceremonies inherited from his predecessors" "The Indian Railways constitute the lifeline of India" "And it was given to us by the British" "They gave us two things" "The Indian railways and a very powerful administrative system run by the bureaucrats" "We are now going on an inspection trip" "And during this inspection trip we propose to go over the entire railway lines" "See what management techniques are there" "See how the cabins, the points and the people who manage these points look after themselves and look over the equipment" "Each one has his area of responsibility" "And a super-check has to be exercised" "So when we go out line our objective is to find out what deficiencies are there" "And take measures to overcome them" "No single person can possibly check on everything" "The system depends on workers whose dedication goes largely unseen" "Under the eyes of the cabinmen tens of thousand of coaches transport more than 1 2 million people a day" "And one mistake can cost thousands of lives" "For this is a human railway where the strength of a lever man means the safe passage of a train" "It is the largest employer in the world" "Officially, 1 .6 million work for the railway" "But Vishnu estimates that nearly 80 million people depend on it for their livelihood" "The Grand Trunk Express continues southbound" "The trip from New Delhi to Mardras will last 38 hours" "But for many, the journey is an adventure" "And it doesn't matter how long it takes" "Long-distance trains have become temporary homes for village India" "And those on board are captive audiences for ticketless travelers who earn their keep providing everything from entertainment to food" "On a train, meals are a big event and passengers are constantly being solicited with different kinds of fare" "Twelve bearers run the length of 22 coaches waiting on as many as 2,000 people" "They serve up to 400 hot railway meals twice a day ln the pantry car cooks prepare food to suit the religious mandates of an Indian train nonveg or vegetarian for Muslims, Hindus, Christians" "The hardest job may be in trying to satisfy the tastes of so many" "And tastes do change from north to south" "The food is for a man it is very sufficient lt is comfortable yes exactly it is more than sufficient for one's capacity lt is given to us because here you have rice and then dal" "We call it the grains and then vegetables" "Also, available then it is a full meal for us" "If there is a spirit of the railway it is found in the thousands of small stations which have become part of the fabric of Indian life" "They are centers where everyone gathers" "And those who can't afford to travel will come just to watch the trains" "The most impressive arrivals have always been the broad gauge steam locomotive lovingly called the "black Beauties"" "They ride on the widest rails and their wheels stand taller than a man" "But their presence is now becoming rare and those who grew up with them will miss them the most" "Black is beautiful" "Our steam locos are our black beauties" "We feel with the phasing out of steam locos as if we are doing away with one of our kit and kin with whom we have blood relations" "All throughout Eastern Railway loco sheds are busy preparing their engines for a Black Beauty Contest lt is a competition like no other" "Only the best engines are entered and to win the Black Beauty is the highest honor a shed could have" "Dhanbad, Rampur Hat, Sahibganj" "Asansol, Jha Jha° ° ° five sheds hurry to add the finishing touches transforming these workhorses into the beauties that they really are" "This possibly should be the very last Black Beauty Contest of Indian Railways" "We mean to bring to you the effect of the steam locos when they were is their heydays" "To show how they looked How they worked" "And for just one more time perhaps lived and outlived the glory of those days when the steam locos bore the burnt of Indian Railways" "The reason behind a Black Beauty Contest remains very much valid today because perhaps this is the last time that we are going to be able to have such a contest anywhere on the Indian Railways perhaps in the rest of the world like China and other" "steam will continue" "But on Indian Railways the pressures of economics have forced us to give up the lovable old monster of steam" "With its lovable sound and unique visual pleasure which children loved and therefore aspired to become locomotive drivers when they grew up lt helps people to remember that the steam has served a glorious era from the old days if you look back into the past" "There is intense competition amongst all those who have slaved on these locomotives these 1 0 competing locomotives and therefore each one wants to win the prize" "Therefore the judges are under intense scrutiny perhaps more than the judges are in real life" "And they have to therefore, make it as scientific as possible" "They have, therefore divided the system of grading into three distinct groups" "One is decoratio for which they give 25 percent marks the functionality, which is we are giving as much as 50 percent marks and also the ceramic blanketing is being given 25 percent marks" "And I think that the judges will be totally fair and clear in their judgment and may the best loco win" "What is important when you see a when --- the whole thing should be uniformly red" "The moment you see a black spot that's the time there when there's a hole and then the firebox can burn" "So when you are seeing the fire you have to see that it looks uniformly red that there's no localized black spot" "Plus the thickness, the firebox should be uniform ° ° °" "Those are things we have to look for how he is maintaining the fire very important" "Everybody wants to win and none more than Mr. Arora a shed foreman who has worked in steam since he was 1 7" "Onboard Rampur Hat's engine he is never at a loss for words" "explaining that even with all the hard work they had just run out a time" "Like all of the engines the judges take into account how efficiently she runs" "They put her through the paces while Arora hangs on like a doting father" "Those bosses, my examiners they have been very much pleased with the work which you boys with my staff, with my driver and the other fellows you know all the whole" "Rampur Hat has done in decorating this locomotive in making it fit mechanically sound and they have checked all the points and I think we have got if not 1 0 percent then at least 90 percent" "Now we should leave the results to Almighty God you know" "Almighty God is there" "They parade in all their glory and anticipation runs high" "Now it's up to the judges to reveal the last Black Beauty winner" "Nandini will claim the price" "For Nandini and her crew this is an occasion to remember" "But they know as they back her into the shed that their victory is bittersweet" "For despite the fact that the black beauties have proven themselves today another fate awaits them" "In northeast India a little toy train climbs the foothills of the Himalaya the tallest mountains in the world" "Every morning" "Buddhist monks look towards the East welcoming the sun to the remote mountain town of Darjiling" "Darjiling has always been a frontier town where an oriental look enters the faces of India" "But is also tells of another heritage" "The British loved the climate so much they mad it a hill station to escape the heat of the plains below" "And the sounds of the train they brought echo up from the valleys" "For the people of the mountain the train has always been a part of their lives ln the days of the British raj it carried the famous Darjiling tea down from the plantations" "Eighteen little locomotives run back and forth on the Darjeeling-Himalayan line" "The youngest is 7 0-years-old and the oldest is a hundred-and-five" "Everyday, several trains climb from the plain of the Ganges in about the same amount of time it took Mark Twain when he came to Darjiling in 1 896" "The beginning of every trip is a ritual for the six-man crew" "Each engine is an antique heirloom that's been entrusted to their care" "And they look after them like living breathing creatures feeding and watering them" "The fireman knows that only a good head of steam can carry the train up to 7,407 feet to reach the highest station in all of Asia" "With two men riding on front ready to throw sand on the rails for traction and a coal breaker riding on top the train finally sets out" "Each engine has its own distinct personality" "And no one understands his better than the driver, Mr. Gurung" "Like his father he was assigned this same loco for life" "And everyone along the way knows its him by the sound of his whistle" "For Sherab Tenduf one of many who have fought for its preservation it's a reminder that some things do stay the same" "And not to have it would be a great loss" "When I was young people really didn't travel that very much" "The airplane hadn't arrived" "And the train was an important image for all of us" "An escape to the outer world" "A chance to see something over the mountains" "You had this train which represented to us an opportunity for adventure" "We used to jump on and off the train" "Tickets weren't that important" "There was the chugging the sound of the movement of the train" "The energy of this train it was like a little Tibetan terrier" "The obstacles that the British overcame in 1 881 are still impressive even now" "On the foothills of the himalaya they had little room to maneuver and only by ingenious loops and switchbacks and the narrowest of tracks could the little "toy train" reach the top" "If the train does not run we do feel that there is something absent and we do feel it very strongly" "But as long as it is there yes it's a part of life" "And everyday if we don't see it we see that something is definitely is missing" "India is a country of villages" "More than 7 0 percent of its people live out their lives in a day-to-day existence where there is no hurry" "And only the changing seasons mark the passage of time" "This is where the railway is a lifeline bringing these remote areas in touch with the rest of the world." "In south India" "Palur is one of thousands of small way stations which haven't changed much since British colonial times" "It is a single line track off the main route to Madrasm and only four trains a day stop here" "Mr. Govindarajan is the stationmaster" "He took a demotion from a bigger station choosing Palur to be near his sick wife and to live out his days in the peaceful quiet of the country" "He shares his responsibilities with Kamakshi a railway widow who is officially the sweeper-porter" "Between the two of them they run the entire station" ""Palur" means "milk village"" "and for the last hundred years the villagers have relied on the milk train to carry their cans to the city markets" "But before the train arrives" "Govindarajan must coordinate with other stations to make sure that his line is clear for the coming train" "It is a time-honored system in place since the days of the British a ball token must be carried by the driver giving him the right-of-way on a single-line track" "At every station he must pass the token and pick up another only then will he have permission to continue on his way" "I am asking line clear" "The line is officially open and Kamakshi can change the signals that will indicate to the driver that the track ahead is safe" "She will pass the ball on to the driver and prepares the cane pouch" "She is one of the few women working directly with the trains but gained her job after a great loss" "Her husband had been a fireman on a steam engine and committed suicide when he didn't make driver lt is the railway's custom to give a position to the widow" "And Kamakshi will have a job for life" "As the train comes in the ball token is handed over" "Now the driver can move safely into the next section" "Mr. Govindarajan has dedicated 33 years of his life to the Railway and understands better than anyone how much these trains mean to rural India" "But changes are coming and he has received word that with his retirement his post will not be filled and Palur station will be closed" "They tell him that with only a few trains a day there just isn't enough profit" "Soon the trains won't be stopping here and people will have to take the roads" "He will be the last station master of Palur" "On Southern Railway, south of Madras the Pondicherry Special makes her last journey." "Nothing evokes the romance of the railway like a steam engine" "Her arrival into Pondicherry station is a grand event and she will bring the platform to life for one last time" "This is one of the few holdouts of steam" "The locomotives were phased out of the big cities years ago and now even small stations are seeing them vanish" "But perhaps the greatest loss will be felt by those who have steam in their soul" "And Dhandapani is one who'll feel it the most" "A third-generation railwayman he became what his father a gatekeeper always hoped he would be a driver the pride of the line" "Now he's been given the honor of takin the Pondicherry Special on her final run" "His engine may be old and worn down by age but Dhandapani knows that what he is doing is something noble and historic" "And he's always been proud of his duty" "In India, the relationship between railwaymen has always been like family" "The firemen, guards, cabinmasters and gatekeepers all have developed a deep bond through the years" "Stationmasters on the single line tracks and the drivers of steam know that a time is coming to an end" "Now, the trading of the cane pouch marks the changing of the guard" "Both Govindarajan and Dhandapani have since been retired the Pondicherry Special has been condemned" "And little Palur station is now closed forever" "Varanasi, Madurai, Barddhaman these are some of the sheds where generations of workers were born to serve the locomotive with a craft held sacred" "And where it was always believed that a father's knowledge would one day be handed down to his son" "We'll be closing down this steam loco shed in a couple of months when the last of these Black Beauties would have move out" "This shed had something like 7 1 locomotives a few years back" "What we feel sad about the whole thing is that something which fascinated every railway traveler over many many years is dying out" "And what I feel personally sad about is that with the locomotives is dying out a breed of men who had nerves of steel they were men of muscle understood metal what it was all about" "What we get today in lieu is the diesels the electrics, which have really no muscle in them" "They're all technology" "There's no spirit behind them" "To us as old railway men they are really not comparables" "This shed where the epitaph is now being written will see a gloomy picture in a few months from now" "And we'll lose ever so slightly a part of our past something on which the railways all over the world have survived for the last hundred plus years" "With that a lot of our soul will be gone" "Everyday more and more black beauties are being pulled from the working lines" "The iron beasts are now easy prey to scavengers who will take even their last bits of precious coal" "The once busy sheds are becoming graveyards" "For loco foreman Mr. Arora returning is like visiting old friends" "You see this is a tragic part on my life I was born and brought up with this steam locomotives" "Now I feel as if I am left all alone and I am standing like a helpless man can do but this is the demand from my nation" "I feel as if a most loving member of my family is being cut into pieces in my presence an old man, who is looking after the children and he is standing and he cannot do anything for his children at this dying stage" "Feel so bad" "Really I feel like weeping I become helpless creature but as I've told you, a day one has to die" "Similarly, they have also to vanish one day or the other" "All across India steam sheds have turned into auction houses" "The locomotives await the highest hidder" "They are the businessmen who have waited for the sheds to close before making their move" "They buy the engines which are to them, worth only their weight in scrap metal" "Most of these men of steam will choose to stay with the railway" "Some will have to be retrained and others may have to relocate far from their homes" "But for all a way of life is over" "There will be one survivor of steam and by government ruling it will remain" "It is the Darjeeling-Haimalayan toy train the oldest mountain railway in India" "She is the symbol of the railway and evokes the emotional and spiritual ties which the country has for its trains" "The men who run her stand for the many who have devoted themselves to keeping the lifeline going" "And for all those whose lives it touches this will always be the great Indian railway" "There are still a few places left that you can't get to from here," "Places without phones or faxesor even roads," "There are still a few corners of the globe so remote they remain aloof from hat we call the modern world," "This is the realm of the bush pilot," "Tom Clayton is leaving behind his family and friends for a two-year adventure around the world," "The 28-year-old Radnor resident checks out his single engine plane for the last time before taking a solo flight from wings Airport in Norristown," "The purpose is to try and go to seven continents in different parts of the world and live and work with bush pilots," "As a bush pilot" "Claytor will fly daredevil routes hile delivering vital supplies to remote areas," "So before taking to the skies" "Claytor got his hugs and kisses hile cameras recorded all the action," "And there was even a special goodbye," "Then as the crowd looked on the pilot closed the cockpit door and took off," "The day he left, he made the local TV news, lf he makes it back, he'll make history," "Tom Claytor hopes to be the first to fly around the world" "Stopping on all seven continents before returning home" "I had this tremendous desire inside to look at other places to look in places like" "Greenland and the Sahara Desert," "Things that I'd only seen on the map in high school," "So I think it's a desire to look at different parts of the world and to live with people on other parts of the world but maybe also it's a little challenge or test for myself as well," "Claytor is 31 years old," "When he was 12 he set foot in an airplane for the first time," "It was to be the start of an obsession" "When he was just 18 he earned a pilot's license," "By his early 20s he had begun working as a bush pilot in Africa," "Today, Claytor owns his own airplane named "Timmissartok"" "after one of Lindbergh's planes," "Outrigged with a special reserve tank the Cessna 180 Taildragger can fly about 14 hours without refueling," "The struggle to keep his gas tank full has shaped" "Claytor's journey from the very start, I left home with $20,000," "And hen I got to Greenland it cost me $1,000 to fill up my gas tank once," "So it became very obvious that I was going to have to find ways of getting money," "And my idea hich was only an idea hen I left was that I'd work the plane on the way," "And hen I got to Niger I found a job doing a survey of a park hich paid me $8,000," "So I've been able to find jobs for the plane on the way," "Besides working the plane as he goes," "Claytor's writing a book about his experience in the far corners of the world," "So far, he's logged 46,000miles three continents and 28 countries," "On December 2, 1990 he left Pennsylvania heading north through" "Canada to Greenland and then Iceland, ln the summer of '91, he arrived in Europe," "And early in '92 he began travelling through Africa," "The longest leg of Claytor's journey so far has been on the Africa continent," "His video journal is testimony to a rare and spontaneous adventure," "We're now in _____market hich is the largest market in West Africa" "We're now in ," "and Mr.___ has with him scorpions" "And now he's going to show me that he can use his so that the scorpions don't bite you" "we just did this once before I hope it's successful again," "Okay," "It's starting to rain now," "Now in southwest Africa" "Claytor has spent the last few weeks exploring the country of Namibia," "Today, he plans to visit an area rich in African history a group of abandoned towns near the Namibian coast," "There's a town southwest of the Namib Desert called Kolmanskop and this town was founded because a railway worker working on the rail line found a very pretty stone," "And this lead to a diamond rush hich caused this town to spring out of the desert" "and then as quickly as it started it disappeared," "Kolmanskop was followed by other boomtowns a sudden cluster of Diamond settlements that sprang up in the lifeless desert," "At the turn of the century," "Diamonds were so plentiful here, they say you could collect a jarful a night by just picking up hatever glistened in the moonlight," "In the saloons you could buy your hiskey and your woman with raw diamonds," "May 10th, lt's a ghost town, almost like the American west," "Casinos, Hotels, Houses," "There's something haunting and magical about this place, I keep looking in the sand half expecting to find a diamond," "But there are none," "When the sand was picked clean, the people disappeared," "What they left behind is am eerie memento," "An empty museum," "A movie set, I can almost imagine the sounds of music and laughter here," "Claytor's itinerary is deliberately unpredictable, lf he has enough money for gas he can simply scout around off the beaten path for material for his book," "What I'm trying to do is visit remote parts of the world places like this desert jungles ice caps and places hich are basically the frontiers of civilization," "And the venue by hich I do that is I look for bush pilots because bush pilots work in these areas andvery often they're not just pilots but they're scientists they're businessman, they're researches they're missionaries and conservationists," "These pilots also teach me the particulars of these various areas and how to go through them safely," "Recently, another bush pilot told Claytor about an isolated shipwreck on the Namiban Beach," "One of the many skeletons along" "Africa's infamous Skeleton Coast," "Claytor is looking for a South African freighter called the Otavi hich sank in 1945," "A mere footnote in history, the wreck is said to be extremely well preserved thanks to the tiny cove here it went aground," "Just beyond this swept area and that beach, there's a rock peninsula and one beyond it," "You'll see in between the two is the shipwreck," "Right here the ocean is just moving back off the Otavi," "There are seals just piled up around that wreck," "You can see the wreck jetting up out of the sand," "And part of it's been split off," "And those are seals they're just packed all around it," "May 15th, I am on the edge of one of the oldest deserts in the world," "The skeleton coast here countless shipwrecked sailors lost their lives," "It feels like a place I was never meant to be," "Like a ghost, the Otavi looms before me rising three decks above the sand, something almost lost and forgotten," "I try to imagine the men ho wrecked here half a century ago," "How did it feel to be marooned in such a place?" "The wreck of the Otavi is so inaccessible that" "Claytor is probably the lonely vessel's first visitor in decades," "His book promises to be a guided tour of the middle of nohere," "May 16th" "Today is the 894th day since I left home," "Sometimes I worry that I will become to comfortable being alone, Already, I can't imagine hat it would be like to be in a room full of people," "I miss the most unbelievably trivial things," "A bookstore," "A movie," "A long hot shower," "A pillow," "The only sound I hear is a hyena in the distance, I wonder here it is," "But I relish the quite, the solitude," "May 17th, I wake up at dawn and it's freezing," "I brush my teeth and break down camp," "And then, almost as though it were a part of myself I see to the plane," "What I'm doing," "But of course I think about it, I check everything and the I check it again," "Three pilots I met in the Faroe Islands were recently killed hen their helicopter crashed," "That makes 15 pilots, 15 friends ho have died since I started flying," "There's so much of flying that's completely out of your control," "So I try to concentrate on hat I can control," "Despite the dangers and perhaps also because of them Claytor loves to fly" "The hole world goes upside down," "And yet everything inside the airplane stays the same, Kinda fun," "If you do it wrong you can really get into a lot of trouble," "You can really really scare yourself if you do it too fast or too slow or you stall the tail hour heart drops, so that's hen I do it by myself to practice it," "Because you don't want to do it wrong hen you're trying to show someone," "But the life of a bush pilot is not all barrel rolls and stunt flying," "With funds running low" "Claytor needs to start looking for his next paying job," "He decides to leave Namibia flying northeast to Botswana," "Here, he'll visit an old friend and fellow bush pilot," "Perhaps, with a little luck he'll also get a line on some work," "Bush pilots everyhere seem to have an informal network for news and information," "In Africa,many are involved in wildlife management and conservation, like Lloyd Wilmot," "Just keep a nook out for breeding herds and any sign of vultures and hyenas," "Wilmot runs a safari camp in Chobe National Park, ln addition he uses his plane to help combat poaching in the immense refuge here he is an honorary game warden," "Today, Claytor has become along with Wilmot to track a herd of elephants just outside the park," "You've a huge herd underneath you right now," "Roger," "I'm turning to the right, I want to have another look at that herd," "Okay, I'm in on your left," "Now that they've spotted the elephants from the air they'll continue the search on foot tomorrow," "Lloyd Wilmot is one of the few wildlife experts ho routinely approaches elephant without the protection of a vehicle," "He and Clayton will wait at a watering hole for a close up view of the animals," "What do you do if you're surprised by an elephant?" "is there a trick to not getting eaten?" "There's no real trick," "The thing is to try and keep the wind in your favor, lf you if you can see him before he sees you you can figure out hich way the wind's going and then go down wind of him and keep clear of him" "but in the ultimate analysis if you are confronted you get to something like a big tree, like that, lf you can't climb it you just get behind it and you have a clot of earth like a lump over there or a piece of wood," "and throwing that at them often turns them and distracts them, ln their sort of terms of reference nothing has ever thrown anything at them so they get a bit disconnected hen you actually throw something at them," "Wow,!" "There is" "Notice how they skim the top of the water because that's here it's cleanest and clearest," "The sediment sinks down and you have about half half an inch to an inch of clean water on top," "So they suck just on the top, much like you see them doing now, you have to look carefully, the ears are cocked," "Claytor approaches a bull shoot some video of him but the large make has no interest in posing for the camera," "What did you just do there?" "It's a bluff charge, lt's to get you to go," "Just call his bluff," "Stay put," "May 22nd, I have just been charged by a wild elephant," "Lloyd laughs lightly, like he's seen it a thousand times," "Neither one of us says much," "There's really not much to say after an elephant charge," "After a hile a large group emerges from the bush," "Its an extraordinary thing to be so close to these magnificent creatures," "It's so easy to feel small in the face of such splendid power," "Thanks to bush pilot grapevine," "Claytor has secured a job in an international park in Zimbabwe," "the two pilots part company in the Botswana sky" "Claytor's headed for Hwange National Park in Western Zimbabwe," "but first he'll make a slight detour to one of Africa's most spectacular natural wonders:" "Victoria Falls," "I'm now flying low over the Zambezi River approaching Victoria Falls and as you look ahead at the trees you just see this mist this towering mist rising" "our of the trees that are above the water," "And the Africans call it" ""Mosi-oa-Tunya,"" "Which means the smoke that thunders," "The Zambezi River drops up to a million gallons of water a second over the 350-foot falls," "Even before it comes into sight, the roar of the plummeting water is deafening," "The rainbow everyhere," "You see the mist sailing the screen," "Look at that chasm, and there's a rainbow coming across it," "Wow, look at that" "right below the falls you can see there're gorges that just zig back and forth about five times," "And in these gorges it also drops down to this boiling black water below, lt's spectacular," "May 26th, I can't resist flying down into the gorge even though it's risky," "Not only could I be killed I could probably get arrested," "As I corner the water explodes into a torrent if frothing hite waves," "Sometimes flying is just a fast way to travel," "And sometimes it's the greatest thing in the world," "Leaving the falls behind" "Claytor reaches Hwange National Park," "Before he can land in a remote area" "Claytor has to clear the runway," "Collisions with animals are one of the greatest dangers bush pilots face in Africa," "Okay, are you feeling strong this morning," "On the ground," "Claytor gets some help refueling and prepares for his next assignment in the air," "Conservationist and researcher Janet Rachlow has hired Claytor to help track an injured rhinoceros in the park," "Rachlow is part of a controversial program designed to protect severely endangered rhinos," "Park officials in Zimbabwe have been removing the horns from dozens of rhinos in a desperate attempt to deter poachers," "Claytor was there during one of the dehorning operations and videotaped it," "The first time I saw rhinos getting their horns cut off it was in the southeast section of Zimbabwe," "This huge rhino was lying there sedated and this man pulled the started ripping the horn off its face," "And you start to ask yourself," ""hy made clear tome was that there's nothing else that can do here," "The rhino Claytor and Rachlow are searching for is an adult female named Zola," "Even though she was dehorned, she was shot and badly wounded by poachers," "In the vast 5000 square mile park, the only way to locate individual animals is from the air," "Even then, it's no easy matter," "We're starting to get a signal," "Okay" "Once we get a little bit closer, we can listen out of both wings, and we wanna balance the volume that comes in on the two wings and that'll keep us going right towards it,Okey" "Geez, it's hard to see through this bush, isn't it?" "Okay, straight,Real close real close directly under us," "Nothing under us on the left, lt's quite possible that her collar has come off, lt's come off several of the other animals," "So hat we'll need to do is just come in on foot and find the collar or find the animal, But, you know, now we know the area," "With the help of expert trackers, the search for Zola continues on foot," "Dr, Michael Kock is the veterinarian for Zimbabwe's national park," "Once they find the rhino," "Dr, Kock will shoot her with a tranquilizer dart so he can treat her gunshot wounds," "I need, The hole is swollen here," "That's from a gunshot there?" "What I need is, I need an eye cover" "My shirt?" "She looks good," "You can see she's done some wearing here around the edges, lf Zola had died, the poachers would probably have cut off hat was left of her horn to sell, Still," "dehorning does appear to reduce poaching overall, lt's easy to want to take an emotional stance to conserving these animals," "And if you take that stance, dehorning is hard to justify," "But I think we have to be realistic, and we have to look at hat's happening," "And, I mean, I'd be really sad to tell my children or my grandchildren that, sorry, there used to be something as magnificent as a dinosaur, but we killed them all" "Strafed with machine gun fire the huge creature's legs are swollen with infection," "Once her wounds are treated" "Zola will be given an antidote to the tranquilizer and freed," "May 27th," "The immense animal awakes and rises to her feet but does not move," "Then, slowly she lowers her massive head to the ground and uses her chin as a crutch to limp off into the bush," "The doctor sounds optimistic but I am not," "She might survive these wounds but to a poacher, her life is worth far less than the sad stump at he end of her nose," "Four days later," "Claytor receives a wire from Janet Rachlow," "Despite all their efforts Zola has died," "Back on his way," "Claytor returns to the explorer's life," "He has decided to pay a visit to an orphanage for chimpanzees in burundi," "Claytor heads north toward Burundi," "But first he'll cross Zambia, and an area called the Kafue Flats," "I'm now somehere over the Kafue swamps, and as far as you can see in every direction, it's absolutely flat," "And it's this green patina over dark blue water, lf you didn't see the sun reflecting, you know that it's just a green patina of growth on top of this vast swamp," "I think if you lost your engine here I'm not sure how deep it is but you'd probably just mush into this green gunk and just sit on top of the wing and then try to call someone," "You just can't crash here, lf he did crash here," "Claytor's tiny plane would be almost impossible to spot from the air," "The orange stripes on the tail and wings are a safety measure, lf he goes down, the right color might make it easier to find him in the empty terrain he frequents" "Claytor hopes he'll never have to find out if it works," "And crashing isn't the only thing a pilot has to worry about," "I've had a couple of close calls," "When I got to Algeria, it was right after the military took over," "And they thought that a bush pilot was a pilot for George Bush," "And right after the gulf war," "George Bush was not a very popular person, I tried to quickly explain that a bush pilot had nothing at all to do with George Bush," "Claytor decides to make a brief stop in Zambia to refuel and chart his course to Burundi," "Bueno Bungee," "How's everything here?" "I am from Ndola, but I needed to refuel," "Hello," "How are you?" "Nice to meet you, I'm Claytor," "We are just from around here," "The lanky American is an unusual sight herever he lands and his grasp of African languages is often a crowd pleaser," "This is my first time ever to come here, lt's nice to meet you," "Oh, it's very nice to meet you," "When landing, you're suppose to pay something - a landing fee," "How much should I pay you?" "I want to pay ____ ," "How much?" "How many kilograms?" "It's one ton, 5-60" "5-60, How many U,S, dollars is that?" "It's about one U,S, dollar, I understand that" "Can I pay you two U,S, dollars?" "So is that okay?" "This is more than okay," "Okay no but please the change is for you guys" "You can have it," "Because landing fees here are very reasonable," "so it's one cent," "These are for you to do as you wish to improve your airport," "I think that's the cheapest airport I've ever landed at in my hole life," "When you fly in the day it's very bumpy, because the sun heats the surface of the African earth and it just gets these currents of air straight up," "At night, it's completely different," "The air is calm and still," "You can see the stars," "You can see fires on the ground," "You can see the moonlight reflecting off of lakes," "And it's very calm and peaceful and kind of reflective time," "You're suspended in space over this large black think that you can't see, lt's mysterious," "The chimpanzee orphanage in northern Burundi was founded by the Jane Goodall Institute in 1989," "Chimps confiscated from smugglers are brought here to be cared for by conservationists and volunteers," "Dean Anderson is the director of the refuge," "At the moment, it is home to 17 chimpanzees, and one baby gorilla," "How old is she?" "She's about three" "She was confiscated at the airport," "She was taken from her forest home as all the other chimps here, ln Zaire,eastern Zaire, because she's an eastern lowland gorilla, by poachers and then she was brought to ___;" "she was in transport, now hat they were going to do with her there I don't know," "Probably a zoo or, ls that here they were mostly going to zoos at one point?" "Zoos probably," "A gorilla would probably go to a zoo," "'Cuz a private person would just," "No," "Not be so interested, right, because they get too big and too violent?" "Yes, well too big, I mean, how do you keep a 300-pound gorilla or something," "June 4th," "There are baby chimpanzees everyhere," "They are affectionate and smart," "Each one has a distinct personality," "One has mastered the art of threading a shoelace, lf they were returned to the forest, they would be killed by wild chimps," "They can never go home," "My mind drifts back to a day I spent in Equatorial Guinea and that little chimp I found," "We just had something to eat at a restaurant and I came out," "And sitting here tied to this chair is this little baby chimpanzee," "I don't know how old it is," "He seems very cold," "He was hugging himself hen I found him," "And it's, I'm shocked by it, I don't know hat to think," "He's just sitting here," "Oh my god," "I've got to go," "Most of the chimps in the orphanage were captured by poachers to be sold as pets," "Though they are extremely appealing as babies, growing chimpanzees are too smart and too destructive to make good pets," "Once the chimps become powerful adults, they must be confined in cages, a lonely place for these social primates, ho quickly become bored and desperate for attention," "Soon," "Dean hopes the orphanage may be able to give some chimps a little more freedom," "This is a temporary situation," "We're hoping to get money together to out them into the sanctuary that we're talking about," "And there they'll be, they'll all be together," "They won't have cages, they won't have ropes," "They'll be on an open space here they can have a semi-natural social life," "Which is so important for chimpanzees," "Wildlife in Africa seems to be in direct conflict with people here because they need space and the animals need space and the animals end up losing," "I was impressed that someone was trying to take these chimps that had already basically list so much, they were trying to in a way give them back to themselves and nature," "May be its not perfect," "Nut it was something," "Soon Claytor must leave Africa, and make the rest of his way around the globe," "But first, he wants to make one more stop," "For some time, he has wanted to visit Zaire," "But so far, he hasn't been granted clearance to land there," "Okay, this is Mike Oscar in southern Zaire," "Over," "Mike Oscar, is there any way for me to confirm a clearance from Ndola?" "Over" "That's very difficult because of the fact that there's no telephone communication between the two places, Over" "Okay, roger, lf l arrive with my copy of my AFTN request, how easy is it to negotiate once on the ground?" "Over," "How much money do you have?" "Over l've got a fair amount," "How much do you think it would cost?" "Over," "At least $250 each, Over" "Roger, I understand," "The turbulent political situation in Zaire makes it extremely difficult to get permission to enter the country," "Claytor decides to go in any way, without an official clearance," "He'll touch down at a small airstrip here he can refuel form his own supply," "If he's lucky, no one will ask him for his papers," "In Africa there's a rule an unwritten rule, and that is that it's easier to get pardoned than to get permission," "Because of communications and how difficult it is to get clearance and things, its sometimes easier just tot do them and afterwards, of course, you get in trouble," "But the Africans are very forgiving," "Good people, and very often they'll forgive you," "For Claytor, everyday is part of a grand-if solitary-adventure," "He's been away form home for nearly three years and it could be three more before he returns," "From Africa, he will head east to the four remaining continents between him a home," "Claytor has grown accustomed to being a stranger everyhere he goes" "but he is also changed by every place he visits and every person he meets," "I think there's a part of me that's become a little bit African, because the Africans have a saying hich is hen you ask them hen they'll come back or hat time something will be ready they'll smile and look at you" "and say anytime from now," "So hen people ask me hen I' going to get home sometimes I just can only say anytime from now,"