"THIS IS NOT THE TALE OF IMPRESSIVE DEEDS IS A PIECE OF TWO LIVES TAKEN IN A MOMENT WHEN THEY WERE CRUISING TOGETHER ALONG A GIVEN PATH" "The Plan:" "To travel 8 thousand kilometers in four months" "The method:" "Improvisation" "Objective:" "Explore the Latin American continent that we only know by books motorcycle diaries" "Good Night Granado" "Equipment: "La Poderosa" (The Powerful)" "A '39 Norton 500 that's battered and leaks" "The Pilot:" "Alberto Granado" "A chubby friend, 29 years old and biochemist  self proclaimed scientific vagabond" "The Pilot's dream: crown the trip with he's 30th birthday" "Copilot:" "That would be me" "Ernesto Guevara de la Serna" ""El Fuser", 23 years old" " Ernesto is going away?" " No, Ernesto stays" "Ernesto, could you takes us with you, please" "Look dad, I'm sorry, but no matter how many times you tell me..." "Please Ernesto, you are only 3 assignments away from your MD title" "And that can wait" "MD student" "Leprosy specialist" "Amateur Rugby player" "Hey Fuser...nice Fuser!" "And occasionally, asthmatic" "Departure date..." "January 4th" "The route: from Buenos Aires to Patagonia and then Chile then to the north up to 6 thousand meters by the spine of the Andes to Machu Picchu" "From there, to the lepers home of San Pablo in the Peruvian amazonia" "Final Destination: the Peninsula of Guajira in Venezuela at the north point of the continent" "We settle at the Peninsula of Guajira, the point of this great continent" "Mouths full of wine, nice music" "That beer is good, ah?" " Fuser, on January 4th, you should be done with all your exams, right?" " Yes" " If you want, i can make a detour to Miramar to visit your little girlfriend - "little girlfriend"" "A couple of days" " Look Fuser, look at that guy over there" " What?" "Do you want your life to be like that?" "You don't want your life to be like that, Fuser" "What you want is to fuck in every country in South America" "Hey boy...and in every town if we are lucky enough That's and extra ingredient, right" "What we had in common: our restlessness, our dreaming spirit and the untiring love for the route" "BUENOS AIRES, ARGENTINA January 4th, 1952 Km 0" "Let's go Ernestito, we don't have the whole day" " Isn't it too much Granado?" " Not enough chief." "Norton 500, "this" is a motorcycle" "Your son is in good wheels, don't worry" "You should expect some difficult times son" "But the truth is that i always dreamed of doing something like this" "And i have to confess that if i had a couple less years on me..." "I would jump right along with you on that motorcycle" "Try to think that i do it for the both of us" " 10 years planning this trip, uncle" " Since you were a kid" "Meanwhile..." "I trust you eh?" "And the revolution uncle, for when?" "Here?" "In a century" " Are you already leaving?" " Yes, I'm off" "You should only worry about taking your medicines, nothing more, ok?" "And writing me..." "The most beautiful letters you have ever read mom" " Bye, my love" " You'll see." "Bye." "I love you" "Bye" "Bye little sister, take care" "Bye man" "Send me postcards" "Ok, stop it or I'll start crying." "Please" "Take care, ok?" "Just like Don Quixote had Rocinante and Saint Martin had his mule" "We have "La Poderosa"" " Yeah, that pisses oil" " Yes, pisses oil, but what I'm trying to say is that in this precise moment" "The young Fuser and myself are embarking in a trip to the most remote places of the human spirit where we will meet new lands, listen to new anthems, eat new fruits..." "Granado..." "I'm making you responsible." "If something happens to Ernesto I'll find you." "Put on the handkerchief darling" "Don't worry mam, he will come back to become the doctor we all want him to be" "It better be" "Ok, is time to leave!" "Animal!" "Careful with that bike!" "Dear mom..." "Buenos Aires is behind us behind is as also the miserable life the faculty, the exams and the dissertations that make you sleepy" "Before us lies all of Latin America" "From now on we will only trust in "La Poderosa"" "I wish you could see us." "We look like adventurers and inspire admiration and envy everywhere" "Go Mial." "Assume aerodynamic road position" "C'mon baby, don't fail me baby." "C'mon, c'mon" "What happened Mial?" "!" "I'm glad to have left behind civilization, and be closer to the earth" "Wait, something is coming out...something is coming out" "Fuser, are you alright?" "What happened puppy?" "Are you alright?" " What the fuck is that?" " What the fuck does it look like?" " A fucking dog?" "!" " Oh fuck, you are a shitty driver..." "What the fuck is that dog doing on the bike?" "Is for Chichina and his name is Kamba" "Pick up the bike." "Miramar, Argentina January 13th, 1952 Km 601" "Where the fuck are we?" "Switzerland?" " Good morning" " Good morning" " Chichina?" " She's inside with the rest of the family" "That bike is giving you problems, uh?" "Esteban, please tell us about your trip" "It was great Don Horacio, i had the opportunity to take a seminar in Cambridge and stay a couple of weeks in London, a fascinating city" " What a privilege!" " Yes it was" " Esteban is getting his PhD soon, right?" " Yes" " Medicine?" " No, Law" "Ah, law" "Sorry." "1, 2, 3, 4" "Is your turn, come" "I never saw a pig who wanted to dance, never." "C'mon" "Knock it off!" " With this hand...back...side" " What are you laughing at?" " I'm laughing at you." "Tonight?" "My dad ask aunt Roxanna not to take her eyes off of me" "My mom promised the Lady of the Valley that she would walk to her sanctuary if we broke up" "And your parents can't see that the more they bury the diamonds, the more decided is the pirate to steal them?" "Believe me, this diamond wouldn't mind being stolen" "Dance" "Look" "Let me see your bathroom" " Good night" " Good night ladies" "Aunt Roxanna, which room is mine?" "Get away Kamba!" " How many days did you say we were staying here?" " You already know" " Two" " And how many days have we been here?" " If you become a Doctor, will you operate with wire too?" " Six days, Fuser" "Someone will see us" "If you'd stay we could do many things, Ernesto, but only if you'd stay" "I didn't like the sound of that" " What do you want me to say?" "That I'm going to wait for you?" " I told you I'm coming back" " Yes, i have the dog as proof" " You didn't like it?" "What do you want Ernesto, what do you want to hear?" "That I'm going to wait forever, that I'll wait for months and months till you come back?" " What's going on?" " What do you want?" "What do you want?" "I'd like you to stay like this forever." "Quiet." "I want to look at you, cause I'm not going to see you for a long time" "Of course I'm going to wait for you, but please don't take an eternity" " And how long is an eternity?" " That's slippery ground mister" "I'm not going to touch you" "Did i hit you?" "Did i hurt you?" "Did i hurt you?" "That was a trick, a very bad trick" "Ok lovebirds...is time to leave." "Fuser" "Miss Ferreira..." "Thanks for everything" ""I used to listen the bare feet splashing in the ship "And had a feeling of the faces darkened by hunger" ""My heart was a pendulum between her and the street" ""I don't know with what strength i freed myself from her eyes, "I broke away from her arms" ""She was left clouding with tears her anguish "Behind the rain and the glass" " Lorca eh?" " No" " Neruda" " No" " Who?" " I don't remember" " Good bye" " Bye" "Wait, wait." "The snot is..." "And so...with Chichina, nothing..." "Not even after giving her the German shepherd with pedigree...nothing" "I mean, at least you saw a tit...one" "Ahhh...." "You saw her tits, Ernesto" "Scalpel, Scalpel" "North American Dollars?" " Fifteen" " Chichina?" " Yes" "I like that girl for you, i always said that she was your girlfriend." "We will eat better now" " No..." " Protein food" "No, she gave me this money for when we get to the US." "She asked me to buy her some pants." "I told her i would" " What?" " Forget about this money." "It is out of our budget." " Fucking moron, he is testing me..." " Che are you talking to the bike again" "Listen to me man, what is wrong with your head?" "That chick's got you by the balls." "Calm down" " Good evening" " Hi" "Piedra de Águila, Argentina January 29th, 1952 Km 1809" " How do you feel the bike?" " The wire is making wonders, it works great" " Son of a bitch...fuck" "Are you alright Fuser?" "It was the curve" "Son of a..." "Look at the pipe..." "son of a bitch!" "Pass the stakes, I'm all out" "Wait, wait, don't fuck with me" " You had to choose this place, you idiot..." " No you chose this place" "Hold that side" " No...fuck" " Son of a..." " The river is taking it" " Grab it, grab it" "It took it" " Che and what if we go there?" " We should ask for help over here, with the common people" " Which one are we doing?" "The broken headlight?" " No, Red October." "You have the experience right?" "Good Night" "What do you want" "Maybe our appearance doesn't show it, but we are doctors from Buenos Aires and Córdoba, respectively" "We are traveling all over the country, doing some research with hopes of curing some of the worst diseases of the 20th century" "Plagues that not only consume our energy but that also keeps Argentina in need" "When by just reading the medical literature, you could notice, just as us..." "What the fuck do you want, pair of bums?" "Look sir, the wind took our tent, we are starving and we need a place to spend the night" "Ok, out there in the shed there's a good ground." "You can sleep with the workers" " We are doctors..." " Hmm...i like your face a lot, but i don't like yours fatty" " Fine?" " Yes, its fine" " Thank you." "Dear Mom...we are still hitting the road, but to tell you the truth, the bike is less powerful every day" "San Martín de los Andes, Argentina January 31st, 1952 Km 2051" "Money and food are scarce, but we manage to find opportunities to eat and sleep for free" "Thanks to our secret weapon:" "Alberto's infallible sweet talking ...plagues that not only consume our energy but compromise the modernization of Argentina" " So, you are doctors" " Well, no." "Alberto is a biochemist and I am an MD student" " He is practically graduated, we are like doctors" " Then i would appreciate it if you could look at a swelling i have in the neck" " Gladly, eh..." "Mr.?" "Von Puttkamer" "Does it hurt?" " This is a tumor" " What do you mean a tumor?" " Yes" " Do you think so" " Yes" " Allow me" "I don't know Fuser, fat sedimentation it could be a cyst" "No." "It is a tumor in the occipital area" " Schatzie, these gentlemen say i have a tumor" " Tumor?" "Good morning mam, i sincerely don't believe it is a tumor but a sebaceous cyst" "If you could give us a place where we could eat and sleep we might be able to treat it" "No, no look...we can't treat it." "You will have to go to Buenos Aires." "I can recommend you a specialist" " Or we could try to help him, don't you think?" " Help with what?" "With the grass, with prayers?" " I understand, you can't do anything for me" " Yes we can, if you give us a place where we could eat and sleep." " Around here there's a lake with lots of fish and a shed" " Sir, the diagnostic is very..." " We have nothing more to talk about, doctors." "Let's go Schatzie" " The next time could you try to help us a little" " Of course i can give you a hand, but never at the price of the health of a man" " Ok, let's say that you are right and the old guy has a tumor, how the fuck do you tell him like that?" "Is the truth, if he can't handle it he can go to hell" " You can't treat a patient like that, you can't" " The guy has a serious problem, the sooner he looks into it the better" "That's the proper treatment, didn't they teach you that at biochemistry school?" "Don't talk to me about proper medicine" "Nurse." "First graduate and then talk." "You think you know everything, moron" "I'm going to look for food" "Duck!" "duck!" "duck!" "." "Give me gun, move it!" "move it!" "Son of a..." "Great Mial..." "I hit it, man" " How did you do it?" " I can't fucking believe it..." "Well, there's no other choice but to get in the water and pick up dinner, no?" "Fuser, to the water to get the food!" "You are really crazy if you think I'm going to get in there." "Do you know how cold is that water?" "Yes, i know you are allergic to cold, water, hot and all that but you know what, i am older, wiser and i shot the duck, so you have to go" " That shot came out of your ass, besides i have asthma" " Ok, you are right." "If you can't I'll do it" " I didn't say i couldn't" " You can't or you don't want to" " I didn't say that i couldn't" "Or you don't want to and that is the same." "Or you could give me Chichina's fifteen bucks and we eat as God intended, c'mon." " Look if i get to find that fucking duck, I'll eat it all by myself" " Ah!" "in the water, in the water, duck." " I'm going to get my balls frozen" " For the use you give them, Fuser..." "Good Fuser, good...bring on that duck with potatoes." "Is it cold Fuser?" "Hey!" "cold?" "Not over here." "Duck" " Are you feeling sick?" " No, I'm just perfect" "Bariloche Train Station, Argentina 3 days later Km 2270" "Easy" "Fuser..." "Fuser, listen to me." "Give me Chichina's fifteen dollars and let's go to a hospital like the people" "If you say that to me again, I'll throw up all over you." "Dear mom...what is it that's lost when you cross a border." "Each moment seems to be split in two" "Melancholy for what was left behind and on the other hand all the enthusiasm at entering new lands" "Frias Lake, Argentina February 15th, 1952 Km 2306" " Look Mial, Chile" " Chile!" "Viva Chile!" " Is it your first time out of the country?" " Yes, of course" "You are almost a man, Che" "Look Mial, when we are old and tired of traveling, we should come back and set a clinic on this lake" "That's a good idea" "Providing attention to everybody, if anyone ever comes" "Count on me, brother" "Hey, things are getting better Fuser, eh?" " Yeah" " Hey, it is snowing" " No, is just frost" " Help me" " On three, 1, 2, 3" " Done" "Go, go, go" " Fuck is cold!" " Some summer, uh" "Che, you told me we would enter Chile like two conquerors." "Not on foot like a pair of losers" "If you don't like it, go fuck yourself Ernesto" "TEMUCO, CHILE February 18th, 1952 Km 2772" "What if we dump this shit that gives us so much trouble" "And go on foot through the whole continent, you genius" "Yes, we would see more and meet more people..." "you would lose weight" "You sissy, but if with a couple of dollars from Chichina this gets fixed immediately" "And again with the same thing." "Forget about that money" "Ok, perfect." "If you get that mad then go all the way to Venezuela walking and leave me here alone with the boss's money" "Know what?" "I would get there in half the time and stop meddling with other people business" "Fuck you bastard!" ""Uy, Ernestito, bring me the little Yankee pants from Miami"" "Can't you see that you will never see them on or off?" "You wanker!" "Fuser.." "You know what your problem is?" "Your fucking honesty." "You should tell a lie from now and then to help us." " Hold it for a second" " Hey, hey, what are you doing?" " Come, Come" "Thank you" " What?" "Do you have "mate"?" "Thank you." " It has sugar" " Excuse me, what's your name?" " Teresa" " Teresa, Ernesto, nice to meet you" " It would be nice as a souvenir, eh?" " A souvenir?" "I'll take back to Argentina" "You are traveling?" " Yes we are traveling, we are the owners of that old bike" " A the big one over there" " What are these?" " This is "malton"" " And This?" " These are oysters" "Maybe next time ,ok?" "next time..." "Austral Newspaper, 3 pesos, Austral Newspaper, only 3 pesos" "Get informed about Chile and the world, for only 3 pesos" "Yesterday evening, Temuco was honored by the arrival of 2 of the most renowned leprosy specialists of Latin America" " Dr. Alberto Granados from Córdoba" " What do you mean "Granados"" " That's what it says" "Dr. Alberto Granados from Córdoba and Dr. Ernesto Guevara de la Serna from Buenos Aires" "They have embarked on an epic trip from their homeland to the north point of Venezuela" "The charismatic adventurer scientists, experts in their field, have treated three thousand patients in all the continent." "They hope to complete their trip in a record time of five months, just in time to celebrate the 30th birthday of the youthful Dr. Granados" " It says youthful, eh?" " Yes, and so i get informed too." "Do you think it will work?" "Hello, good evening" "My friend and i have some problems with our bike The direction is broken, the brakes are practically gone and the shift box as always..." "And my backside is killing me..." "Let's see." "I can fix the direction, the brakes and the shift box." "But i can't do anything about your backside." "We don't have any money" "What?" "You don't have any money?" "When we get to Valparaiso we will receive some money, when we have it we will send it to you..." "You know, i wouldn't want to be rude, but if you don't have any money, you have nothing to do here, so please..." "Excuse me the interruption, but if you help us right now you will contribute to the bilateral relationships between our countries" "If i understand correctly, you want me to fix it for free" "I think we are not making ourselves clear besides we can't expect everybody to know who's who in the Latin-American medicine field" " Please doctor, come on in" " Yes, precisely today there was an article published on the paper..." " Let me see...allow me" " Yes of course" " Look Piedad, Tulio look..." " Well the picture is not very good" " Yes we are not favorably depicted" "Look, is them..." "Gentlemen, for me it will be a great honor to fix your bike, once i finish this card game with my wife" "Of course, there's no problem" "That's the main priority." "Do you know that tonight there's a dance and God willing, all the ladies of the town will be there" "Oh, what a shame." " Could you give me the paper back?" " Thanks a lot, you are very kind" " I'll bring the bike over" " Please bring it over, we will fix it" "Could i have this dance?" "Cheers!" "You know, i was just thinking about you" "And why is that?" "You made quite an impression when i met you" "Thanks" " Would you like to dance?" " No" "I don't dance" "My husband fell asleep, he's drunk." "I don't have a dance partner" "Well, if you teach me, yes?" "Hey, you finally remembered that you are a man?" "You had forgotten?" "It's been a long time since i danced, but is coming back to me, is coming back..." "I can't dance here" "Would you like to keep dancing?" "Wouldn't you prefer to go out" "I would love to, yes" "Let's go" " What's going on?" " No, we better stay" "Let me go!" "The Argentinean is leaving with your wife" "Let me go!" "Sorry, sorry..." "I'm sorry" "Argentinean mother fucker!" "Aren't you tired?" "No" " Don't you want to switch?" " No" "Are you sure?" "Cows!" "cows!" "I can't Stop, I can't stop!" "The brakes don't work" "Fucking mechanic" " Are you ok?" " Perfect, what do you want me to tell you Fuser?" "Shitty mechanic" "Is he your father?" "Yes" "Hey, that cow is going blind" "...for the shit it's going to see" "Los Angeles, Chile February 26th, 1952 Km 2940" "We are 25 days behind" "Wait wait wait wait" "Hello" "There's a rumor that the Chilean women are the most daring in all the continent" "Well, the rumors have no scientific support Dr. Granado." "We have to make a field test" "You didn't like them, really?" "Here they come" "Hello girls" " Excuse us, the place is packed..." " Can we sit with you?" " Yes, of course" " Thanks" " How are you?" "..." "Ernesto" " He is Alberto" " Miss?" " Jazmín" "Daniela" " Nice to meet you" " Nice to meet you" " So are you Argentineans?" " How did you know?" "I don't know...the accent, because you say "Che", i don't know" " Had you noticed that Che?" "i hadn't" " No me neither" " Do you know what day is today?" " February 26th" "February 26th...we are going to seem like liars, but it has been a year..." "A year?" "A year since when?" " A year since we started this trip" " That's nice" " Damn, one year and we don't have one cent to celebrate" " Wouldn't you like us to invite you a bottle of wine?" " Wine?" " Yes..." "Lucho, bring a bottle of wine to our Argentinean visitors that have made such an effort" "But ladies, please don't takes this the wrong way, but i can't drink wine" " But why, why can't you drink a little wine to celebrate?" " Exactly..." " Well there is an old tradition in Argentina that..." " Please c'mon, don't..." " What?" " I think they deserve and explanation" " Is adequate, yes" "Thanks Lucho..." "Well, there is a long costume in Argentina that doesn't allow us to drink with empty stomachs" "And since we don't have any money at the moment, we can't buy food and we must reject your generous offer" "Please, don't be like that...wait." "Lucho, could you bring us some empanadas" " Do you like Chilean empanadas?" " I have never tried them" " four, eight?" " They are really hungry." "Twelve." "I've always liked that number" " I would really like to stay here" " Too bad we don't have a place to stay, but we can sleep at the plaza" "Hey, but my father loves Argentineans." "I think he can help you" "He is the chief of the fire department, so he knows a lot of people" "Wait, are you sisters?" "Yes, of course, you hadn't noticed?" "Look..." "They hadn't noticed." " The mechanic doesn't come back until tomorrow, but the bike can stay here" " Thanks a lot" "Guys, let me introduce you to two Argentinean volunteers that will be staying here with you" " Let me introduce you to Dr. Che Skinny and Dr. Che Fatty" " Nice to meet you" " Hey, would you like to see more of the town?" " Yes" " But..." " Don't worry sir" " Excuse me..." " Yes?" "I wouldn't like to bother you, but are you really doctors?" " No" " Yes" " No" "I'm a biochemist" " Could you visit a lady that is sick" " Yes, when you tell me..." "Could it be right now, cause she is really sick." "It's been a very long time since she saw a doctor" "Ok, let me pick up my things and we will go." "Is nice to be faithful to the Hippocratic oath, Fuser" "Excuse me" "Look at my eyes" "I'm going to touch your neck a little" "Has she eaten?" "I don't know" "Look, Doña Rosa, I'm going to leave you these pills" "Take one with each meal" "And one before bedtime." "This will help you feel better" "Dear mom..." "I knew i wouldn't be able to help that poor woman" "That up to a month ago she had been serving tables, panting like me" "Trying to live with dignity" "In those dying eyes, there was a humble request for excuses" "And a desperate plea of consolation that gets lost in the emptiness" "Just as her body will get lost very soon in the magnitude of the mystery that surrounds us" "Fuser, you still haven't asked me how was the field test with the Chilean sisters" "You know how i fear that you might become the new sexual ambassador of Argentina" "Are you the two lazy asses that travel on that piece of crap" "Her name is "La Poderosa"" "It was." "But now we could name it The Dead One, The Paraplegic" "Oh yeah, why?" "What do you mean why?" "Because I'm the mechanic, what else" "If you sell it per pound, you might obtain something, but that piece of crap arrived dead here, really" "I'll be missing you Negra" "I'll take these, let's go" "What do we do?" "Should we go on?" "Yes, we go on." "You only reach 30 once in a lifetime" "You are really something Ernesto Guevara de la Serna" " If we change the dollars..." " No, don't even think about it" "We arrived at Valparaiso" ""I love Valparaiso." "How much you encompass and how much you irradiate bride of the ocean"" ""Even far away from your deaf halo..."" " Federico García Lorca" " No" " No, it's Neruda" "Valparaíso, Chile March 7th, 1952 Km 3573" "Thank you" " From Chichina!" " Chichina, and the money?" " Should i open it?" " Yes open it" "I leave you alone love bird" "How do i love you Celia de la Serna!" "What's going on?" "Fuser" " Che, are you ready?" " Me?" " Yes you" " Of course" " Let's go" "Right away sir" "Atacama Desert, Chile March 11, 1952 Km 4960" "You know what, my plan was a lot better" "You are so fucking proud, at least answer me" "Do you want to go back?" "Go ahead..." "I'll get to the mine and then I'll tell you what it looks like" "Are you suggesting that i won't make it to the mine?" "If you can little doctor asthma, i can do it too" "Moron" "Oh, you want to win?" "Stop!" "Fuck!" " Good evening, how are you?" " What's your name?" " Ernesto" " Nice to meet you" "Yes, that's it, that's were we are from" "We didn't have much, just a dry and difficult land" "It belonged to his grandparents" "It was ours, until a landlord arrived and kicked us out" " And that is what they call progress" " We had to leave our son with the family and travel to find job" " Trying to escape from the police that wanted to catch us" " Why?" "Because we are communists" "We are going to the mine." "If we are lucky I'll find a job." "Apparently they are so dangerous that they don't care what party you belong to" "Are you looking for a job?" "No, we are not." "No?" "And then why are you traveling?" "Just because" "Bless you, blessed be your travels" "Take this" "Thanks" " Some "mate"" " Thanks" "Those eyes had a dark and tragic expression" "They told us about some friends that had disappeared under mysterious circumstances" "And that apparently ended up in some part on the bottom of the ocean" "That was one of the coldest nights of my life" "But meeting them made me feel closer to human kind." "Strange, so strange to me" "You...you too You, the next one" "Move it, guys, move it" "Chuquicamata Mine, Chile March 15th, 1952 Km 5122" "Move it, guys, move it" "Get in the truck." "The rest go to your homes." "Out" "You two, what are doing here?" "Nothing, we are looking" "Looking at what, this is not a tourist attraction." "Out" "Can't you see that these people are thirsty." "Give them some water damn it." "I will call security so they will arrest you" "Oh yeah." "Why?" "Invasion of property." "This is the property of the Anaconda Mining Company" "Let's go." "Son of a bitch" "When we left the mine, we felt reality was changing ...or were we the ones changing" "Going deeper and deeper into the mountain range we found more natives that don't even have a roof in what used to be their own land" "Finally we entered Peru" "Thanks to a truck driver half blind, Felix" "I almost forgot..." "Today is Alberto's 30th birthday but not in Venezuela, as he had envisioned" "We were so tired, mom that we couldn't even celebrate" "Fuser" "This is humanly impossible" "Finally we arrived to the heart of America..." "Cuzco" "Cuzco, Peru April 2, 1952 Km 6932" "After entering the city, we met Don Nestor" "A very wise man, mom that ended up as our official guide" "I was wondering Sir, which one of this walls is Inca?" "This one should be the Inca wall, and that one is Spanish" "We, as a joke, call this one the Inca wall and that one the wall of the Incapables, those were the Spanish" "Cuzco was the capital of the Incas, but when the Spanish came they destroyed everything, and named Lima as the new capital" " Lima?" " Yes" " This is The Plaza?" " Yes" "She says that she has never been to a school because she has always been near the cattle, that's why she doesn't know how to speak Castilian only Quechua" "I think that before, there was enough money for everything, but now there's little money and there are no jobs" "That is affecting us more and more" "Since i was little i have worked with crafts and that's how i keep on level...regular" "With both hands, with both hands" "With both hands, Nestor" "Good evening" "Good evening" "When i was working, the owner came and he threw me out of the land" "Once i was producing all the products he threw me out" "He threw you out?" "How?" "Did he call the police?" "Yes, he brought the police." "He is a powerful man, he has a lot of money" " He wanted me to leave the land" " Yes, once it was producing" "Yes, it was producing wheat, corn, potatoes, beans..." "and i was meant to keep a part of it" "But i won't stay behind, i have to keep moving forward." "Working, looking for money to educate my children" " How many kids do you have?" " I have five kids" " Have you joined with other farmers of the area?" " Yes, in the community we are organized, we help each other" "We help each other, together" "Machu Picchu, Peru April 5th, 1952 Km 7014" "Let's see how you behave Fuser, eh?" "That's it, that's it" "For posterity" "The Incas had a high knowledge of astronomy, medicine, math, among others" "But the Spanish invaders had powder" "How would America be today if things had been different?" "Fuser, look what i think." "I should marry with an Inca descendant and found an indigenous party" "We encourage everyone to vote" "Reactivate Tupac Amaru's revolution, the indoamerican revolution, Fuser What do you think?" "A revolution without gunshots?" "You are crazy Mial" "How is it possible that i feel nostalgia for a world i never knew" "How do you explain that a civilization capable of building this is wiped out to build this" "Lima, Peru May 12th, 1952 Km 8198" " I know this is not the one" " No?" "Mercaderes 52, let's ask" "Mercaderes Street?" "Mercaderes?" "2 blocks that way, then turn right and 6 or 7 blocks more" " This one has to be Mercaderes" " That one too" " Hey, is this one Mercaderes?" " Yes" " And that one too?" "Yes" "Count from down there...from down there are 2, 4..." "What?" "Oh look" "Can i help you with something?" "This is the one from Mariategui..." "and you should also read Cesar Vallejo" "The best part of Lima, mom, was Dr. Hugo Pesce" "The chief of the program for the treatment of leprosy in Peru" "Alberto had contacted him before starting the journey" "He fed us, gave us cloth, money and some very good ideas" "Mariategui talks about the revolutionary potential of the natives and farmers of Latin America" "He says that the native main problem is the land and that the revolution will not be a copy but a heroic creation of our people" ""7 ESSAYS OF INTERPRETATION OF THE PERUVIAN REALITY"" ""We are too few to be divided", he says" "Everything unites us nothing keeps us apart..." "Here's the main group of patients" "Pesce let us stay at the guide Hospital, were they treat patients in the first stage of the disease" "The ones with more serious conditions are sent to San Pablo's Leper's center in the Amazon" " Zoraida, this is Alberto, Ernesto" " How are you?" " Nice to meet you" "Well, i think we know each other well enough so i will allow myself to tell you something" "I look into your eyes, Ernesto, Alberto, and i see a great idealism, but also a lot of doubts" "That's why I'm glad that you are going to San Pablo" "I think you will find something important there" "Important for you" "Thanks a lot" " Ok, if you excuse me, i will show you something, ok?" " Another surprise?" "How many surprises!" " What is he bringing, little on?" " A book" " A book, uh?" " Eat everything Tito, eh?" "This is the great love of my life after her of course" "Ah, ok" "It's my novel" ""The Stillness of Silence"" "I hope you give me the honor of reading it" " Of course, of course" " The honor is ours" "You can tell me what you think after" " Yes, of course." "Can i open it?" " Yes, yes" " Who dares read it first?" " Both of us" " Besides he reads faster than i do, really." "Ok guys..." " ...that's the boat, "La Cenepa" Pucallpa, Peru May 25th, 1952 Km 8983" "In five more days you'll be in San Pablo" "Teacher, thanks a lot for everything, for your kindness, for the tickets, the cloths, for everything." "It's been an honor" "Don't worry about anything" "Thanks Doctor, thanks a lot" "Don't you think you are forgetting something?" "You've said nothing about my novel" " The novel, Fuser" " Did you read it?" " Of course" "What can i say?" "I can sincerely tell you that no one can tell a story like you" "It has taken a lot of effort" " And what do you think Ernesto?" " He is fascinated!" "If he is fascinated, i would rather to hear it from him" "Look Doctor, I feel that your book is a little beaten" "I think there are many common places..." " Well, that is not that bad" " No" "Basically is poorly written and that makes it hard to read" "It's a very good try doctor, but i think you should focus on what you know best" "I'm sorry, teacher." "You asked for my opinion and I'm giving it to you" "Wao son!" "No one had been so blunt with me." "You have been the only one." "The only one" " Ok, i won't delay you any more, go on." " Thanks" "Good bye and...eternally grateful and forgive me." "Take care!" " Have you seen a bag that was over there?" " No" " It is brown and small" " If i see it I'll let you know" "What is wrong with him?" "Ask for help!" "Ask for help!" "Pass me that pillow" "Be calm, Fuser" "Be calm, I'm going to give you the adrenalin" "Fuser... easy, easy..." "Fuser...easy" "Miss" "I came to thank you personally for the help you offer to my friend and i." "Thanks" "Don't worry, your friend got really sick" " Yes he did" " He gave me quite a scare" "And i, thanks a lot, Miss." " You know, a minute ago i saw a "bufeo" around" " Bufeo?" "Well a river dolphin, but we call them "bufeo"" "Have you ever seen one?" "No, never." "I heard it, but didn't see it" " I'm going to tell you a secret" " Me?" "The bufeo's genitals look like a woman's and the natives use it to relieve themselves" "But there's a little problem, when they are done they have to kill the animal, because the suffer contractions so strong that don't let them get out" "Miss, no offense but can i ask you something?" "Yes" "What brings you to these inhospitable waters?" "I work on the boat, I come and go between Pucallpa and Leticia." "I'm from Pucallpa, you know?" " Pucallpenian?" " Pucallpian" " Do you know it?" " It is full of beautiful women, but you are the best" " Thanks" " You are welcome" "And how do you pay for your ticket?" "I give the captain part of what i make" "But...how do you earn the money?" "Miss..." "Let's just say that, if we go to your room, I'll show you" "My name is Luz, in case you want to know who you make business with" "Lucecita, for a night with you i would give a pile of gold as big as the Aconcagua" "But, darling i don't have a single coin" "Well, then my friend, you'll have to excuse me" " But i have to go earn a living" " Are you going to leave me like this" "I need the fifteen dollars, Fuser" "Her name is Luz and she told me a story about a fish that the natives fuck and she gave me a little kiss" "I already spent them" "C'mon Fuser, don't fuck with me." "We crossed the desert together, we almost died of starvation and cold, the accident" " My needs have higher priority than Chichina's pants" " I don't have them anymore" "I gave them to the mining couple" " Court her" " Fuck you Fuser" "The house wins gentlemen." "Mr. Lloyd retires" " Good night" " Good night" "Make your bets gentlemen" " 8 soles -10 soles" " 1 sol - 1 sol?" "What?" "This is for men, not for school kids" "I didn't know that in Peru you measured a man balls in soles" "Ok, ok, let's play." "Cards gentlemen" " Card?" " One" " Sir?" " Nothing" " Young man?" " One" "I stay" " Card" " Of course" "Gentlemen, the house pays." "Sir?" "17." "I'm sorry Gentleman?" "Thanks" "You young man?" "Pay!" " How much did you bet?" " 1 sol" "The first one" " Ok, gentlemen, your bets - 2 soles" " I want to see your bets." "Your bet sir?" " 30 soles" "Gentlemen, again, Blackjack!" " How much do i owe you?" " 30" " 30 paid" " Thanks, yes sir." "I will retire now." "I think is very clear who has more balls in this table." "Excuse me gentlemen" "Son of a bitch." "Now that we are millionaires we will eat better" "Precisely, look at the mouthful I'm about to eat" " What a night, we are very lucky" " How are you?" "Ernesto..." "Luz" " Hi" " Luz" " At your service" "Burning light that blinds my dreams Now hold on tight for what is coming for you" " Ah, Neruda?" " No, Granado" "San Pablo, Peru June 8th, 1952 Km 10223" "Are you Bresciani?" "How are you guys?" "How was the trip?" " Long but good" " A little long" "No the other way" " Nice to meet you." "Bresciani" " Nice to meet you" "Dr. Pesce has talked very enthusiastically about you so, welcome to San Pablo" "By the way, i have a letter from Dr. Pesce for you do you want it now?" "No, no, there'll be time for that" "Well, since we are here i can show you something" "The Amazon divides the colony in two" "The south part is where we keep the patients." "Here, in the north part is were the staff, the doctors and nurses live." "And a couple of nuns that are very efficient" "This is your room" "The beds are a little hard, but that is good for your spine" "You can see the hospital from here" "Over there And that's the laboratory" "Doctor, let me introduce you to our Argentinean volunteers" "Alberto, i understand you have some experience in baciloscopy" " That's right" " I believe he could help us in the lab, why don't you take him with you" "Ernesto, you are going to help me in the hospital" "Here we have the more serious cases, we transfer them from the south area" " Georgina" " Hello doctor" " And do you make the operations on this side too?" " Yes, on that side we have an operating room" "She is Silvia, daughter of one of our patients and a very good nurse" " How is he?" " He's better, doctor" " Then keep administering the same treatment" " Yes" " Doctor, then how many patients live in the south area?" " Almost six hundred" " All of them Peruvian?" " No, most of them yes, but there are some from Colombia, Venezuela and other countries of South America" "I suggest you use these gloves." "It's true that leprosy under treatment is not contagious but the nuns are very strict about this" " If it's not contagious, then this is purely symbolic" " Yes, but I'm telling you so you don't make mortal enemies over there" " Well, you'll have to forgive us but we are not going to use them" " Yes, thanks doctor" "Don't say i didn't warn you" "Take out the boxes." "Come this way" " Good evening" " Good evening" " Good evening." "Welcome to San Pablo" " Thanks" " You are very kind" " Papa Carlito, at your service" " Nemesio Reyna" " Ernesto Guevara" " I'm Alberto Granado, a pleasure to meet you" "Nice to meet you" "Doctor, didn't you explain the rules to them?" "Nice to meet you" " Don Nemesio, nice to meet you" "Papa Carlito is the head of the community." "They are Argentineans doctors" "Nice meeting you, bye" "They are real gentlemen" "Dr. Bresciani, this gentlemen arrive and think they can behave as they want?" "Mother San Alberto, this gentlemen have good medical experience in Cordoba and Buenos Aires" "That doesn't give them the right to behave like this and break the rules" "I suggest we leave this conversation for later, ok?" "Thanks Mother, you are very understanding" "She is the Mother Superior" "This is the dinning hall." "The nuns make lunch on Sundays, but only for those that come to mass" "The sad thing is that most of San Pablo's patients are here because they have been abandoned by their families or thrown out of their jobs" "That's why they try to adapt to their new life building their own houses, seeding, caring for animals" " Doctor, good morning" " How is Silvia?" " She doesn't want to go to surgery" " Thanks doctor, I'll go see her" "Silvia is a patient a little rebellious and if we don't operate her ulna, she risks loosing her arm" "Hello Silvia" "She's very young" "Can i come inside to talk to her" "Yes" "Can i sit?" "Does your arm hurt?" "What is wrong with you?" "I was born with bad lungs" "What a shame" "No, is not that bad." "Thanks to that i skipped the military service" "I didn't have to shine anyone boots" "Is that why you became a doctor?" "Because you are sick?" "Is possible." "The first word i learned was injection" "I want to be useful in some way" " You are wasting your time" " Why?" "This life is hell" "Yes, it's really fucked up, but we have to fight for every breath and tell Death to fuck off" "Hey Fuser, Bresciani is going to write me a recommendation for an internship in Cabo Blanco's Hospital, in Caracas What do you think?" "That's nice." "Nice?" "What's going on Fuser?" " Did you see the river?" " Yes" "It keeps away the sick from the healthy" "Yes" "That's it..." "Just a quick..." "Are you ok?" "Scalpel" "It's ok, it's ok." "Look at me" "That's it." "The nerve is coming out" "It's thick" "I have four siblings, Celia, Ana Maria Roberto and Juan Martin" "And they are the ones i miss the most actually." "And also my mom" "You have to tell us these things with time" " Have you been playing soccer lately?" " Not lately" "For the next time, please wear some snickers and invite me" "Gladly" "C'mon, C'mon" "North team!" "Mark that one there!" "Out, out" "Get out of there" "Mark that..." "Out, out" "Gol!" "Gol!" "What happened?" "What happened?" "They scored you one fatty!" "Get out of here!" "Excuse me" "Sister, why you don't give us food?" "The rules of Mother San Alberto are very clear, we only serve to those who go to Holy Mass" " What is it?" " They won't give us food because we didn't go to mass" " Says who?" " San Alberto" " Mother" " Yes?" " We want to eat" " We deserve to eat like everyone else" " Yes but you didn't go to mass" " No" "Then, how do you expect to feed the body if you didn't feed the soul first" " Denying food is not very Christian-like" " Yes, i doubt Jesus would act like this" "In this house we have a set of rules that have to be followed" " I haven't read any rule book" " Neither did i." "I think that if find it i would eat it" "Your lunch" "Did you steal it?" " Yes" " Thanks" " Did you took it from San Alberto?" " Yes" "Thanks" " Is it deep?" " Yes" " Do you want some "mate"?" " No thanks" "What?" "From Caracas?" "Great!" "Great, isn't it?" " Should i accept?" " What do you want to do?" "Maybe is time to settle down" "Yes, have a stable job, a girlfriend..." "Get a belly" "And you?" "Are you going back to finish school?" "I don't know." "If i find a way to get back to Buenos Aires, yes" "You're going to be 24 next week, Fuser" "I should be thinking on something, right?" "San Pablo, Peru June 14th, 1952" "The Mother dances well, uh?" "I like the way she dances" "No, I don't dance" "Thank you" " It's good uh?" "It's really good" "Listen, this is the tango that Chichina's uncle played in Miramar" " Ah yes, i like it" " You see" " Yes, yes" " Do you know how to dance it?" " This one's a little faster," "But you know how to dance it." "And there's a lady very interested in dancing with you" " Should i ask her?" " The bird in the stories flies and never returns" "Fly, fly" "Do you want to dance?" " Do you know how to dance?" " Yes" "Is just that this version is faster" "Dance Ernesto!" "Did you think it was a tango?" "Mambo, mambo, mambo" "Happy birthday to you!" "Happy birthday to you!" "Happy birthday, Ernesto, Happy birthday to you!" "Make three wishes Fuser" "Friends, one moment please..." "I believe this is a great opportunity to let Ernesto and Alberto know, how grateful we are" "Not just for having gotten here, but also for their commitment and enthusiasm to the patients of San Pablo during the three weeks you have spent here" "For that reason, we have prepared a little surprise" "Tomorrow you will receive a raft to continue your journey and we will name it, suggested by this night, The "Mambo Tango"" "Thanks a lot" "Speech!" "Speech!" "Well..." "I feel obligated to thank this toast with something more than a conventional gesture" "But given the poor conditions in which we travel..." "the only affectionate resource that we have is the word" "And is by using it, that i want to thank you all, all the staff of the colony" "Thanks" "You, that give us this magnificent display of affection by celebrating my birthday as you would celebrate one of yourselves" "And since we will leave Peru tomorrow, this words also serve as a goodbye in which i want to put all my effort to give a recognition to the people of this country" "that uninterruptedly have overwhelmed us with nice gestures since we arrived" "And i would like to highlight something more, a little off topic of this toast" "But don't worry, i won't dance" "Although our meager personalities prevent us from being spokesmen of your cause" "We believe, even more after this journey, that the separation of America in false and uncertain nationalities is completely fictitious" "We are a single mixed race, from Mexico to the Strait of Magellan" "So, trying to free myself from any nationality load" "I raise a toast for Peru and for America united" "Cheers" "What's up with you?" "Do you know where the boat is?" "No, i don't see it" "I'm going to celebrate my birthday on the other side" "Yes, of course, tomorrow when we find the boat you will celebrate your birthday on the other side" " No, now" " No you won't" " My birthday is today not tomorrow" " I know Fuser but...are you crazy" "You can't cross the river at night with all those animals that can eat you raw" "Mial, how many times in this journey did we thought it was the end and look, here we are" " This time is different Fuser" "Why?" "Because this time i won't be around to help you." "There's no way I'm getting in the river" "You will always be with me Mial, come" "Hey, come here you bastard mother fucker, come back here." "Think of me, your mom is going to kill me" "Fuser, come back here." "Ernesto!" "Listen!" "Son of a bitch" "Ernesto come back!" "Son of a bitch" "Come back here!" " What's going on?" " This crazy mother fucker wants to swim across the river" " What?" " Please tell me that someone has cross this river" "No, no one in all the years I've been here" "Ernesto, come back damn it!" " Hey kid, listen to your friend!" " No he won't listen" " Come here kid!" " Come back Ernesto" " What's going on?" " Something is moving" "The current is getting stronger" " What's going on?" " That moron that is swimming across the river." "Come back, Ernesto" " Is that Ernesto?" " He is swimming this way" "There he is" " He's tired" " You can do it Ernesto!" "There he is" "Come one." "Come on." "Come on." "Ernesto!" "He made it?" "!" "Son of a bitch, he made it!" "He made it!" "He made it!" "I always knew he would make it" "Son of a bitch" "I'm going to miss you." "Take care, ok?" " Papa Carlito is very sad" " Take care" " Good luck" " We will miss you" "Thanks for everything" " Take care, ok" " You too" "Take care kids" " Good bye Mauro" " We will always remember you" "Near Leticia, Colombia June 22nd, 1952 Km 10240" "Caracas, Venezuela July 26th, 1952 Km 12425" "You know, i had memorized a speech filled with anecdotes, and i can't remember a fucking thing" " That happens" " Yeah" "You still have the chance to come and work with me in Cabo Blanco, eh?" "You can graduate and I'll wait for you" "I don't know" "I don't know" "Look Mial, all this time we spent on the route, something happened" "something that i have to think about long and hard" "So much injustice, eh?" "Come on, the plane is leaving!" "Wait, wait." "This could be useful" "You kept it" "Is yours" "I'm off now" "I'll write you, ok?" "Fuser..." "I have to tell you something important." "My birthday is not on April 2nd, it is on August 8th." "I told you only to motivate you" " I knew" " You knew?" "Son of a bitch" "See you!" "See you friend!" "This is not the tale of impressive deeds" "Is a piece of two lives taken in a moment when they were cruising together along a given path" "With identity of aspirations and a conjunction of dreams" "Was our vision too narrow, too partial, too rushed?" "Were our conclusions too rigid?" "Maybe but that aimless roaming through our enormous America has changed me more than i thought" "I.." "...am not myself anymore" "At least, I'm not the same inside" "Eight years passed before the two of them would meet again" "In 1960, Granado accepted an invitation to move to Cuba to work as a researcher." "The invitation came from his old friend Fuser, that at the time was known as Commander Che Guevara, one of the few influential and charismatic leaders of the Cuban Revolution." "Ernesto Che Guevara fought for his ideals in Congo and Bolivia, where he was captured by the Regulation Army and, with the consent of the CIA, was assassinated in October of 1967" "Alberto Granado, always faithful to his friend Fuser, remained in Cuba, where he founded the "School of Medicine of Santiago"."