".. :" "EN Subtitles for crocow : .." "The T waves?" "M broken on the planet H?" "tens of thousands of years." "Except for old polin?" "sios ... it was just this s?" "culo that surfers jumped on the bandwagon." "When I made mine?" "Last movie about surfing, in 1964 ... people surfed in just four pa?" "ses." "Today, surfers catch waves All pa?" "ifs ... that t?" "m coast ... and in almost all the islands, in all oceans." "If you?" "sought the perfect wave ... and was everywhere, All pa?" "ifs ... where people now surf and stay there?" "one day... you?" "would be out for 50 years." "In the age of the longboard, the perfect wave was the " break point ", as in Malibu." "Now it depends on the type board do you?" "surf ... and wave to you?" "like best." "It seems that now everyone surfing, Mr. Hulot ..." "Barron through T.J., 5 years ... at?" "Rabbit Kekai, 75." "Pussycats est?" "Surfing gatonas and also?" "m." "People with weights on the back... and little children really trust the parents." "They surf in a row ... at tr?" "s ... at?" "even 4 poor things that s?" "They may have a plank." "At?" "fan?" "ticos Religious est?" "the this." "At?" "Rover surf." "He thinks the partner a fool that always pushes out." "It would be safer in his pr?" "'d put board." "He?" "the only one that fits that wetsuit ... bought a net ?" "the." "He do not get tired." "He is there?" "the rest of the day." "In the 20s and 30s, surfers used wooden planks." "In the 50s, the boards were made of wood, fiberglass and balsa." "In the 60s, polyurethane and fiberglass." "In the 70s, the shortboard came on the scene." "?" "But one thing paragraph changed:" "a mistake ?" "always a mistake." "Now people catch waves with all sorts of things, jet-skies ... canoes equipped ... at?" "kayaks." "I bet this guy would rather I have been in the river." "Windsurfers can do stunts in the surf." "My friend Tom Morey invented a boogie board in 1 97 1." "Today it seems everyone the est?" "on him." "Some almost made it an art form, as Mike Stewart." "He takes that thing t?" "o within the wave ... what?" "'s hard to believe that can come out the other side." "Mike and his friends surfing Waimea Bay." "Exciting waves breaking almost on the beach." "When the sea est?" "calm, they'll to Rio Waimea ..." "They take p?" "s and take the sand to make?" "water out." "After one hour, the?" "water eat?" "yourself out." "You?" "You know it worked when she takes tourists ... and creates a standing wave." "The waves do not v?" "O nowhere, but you ?" ", yes." "Surf with or without, they d?" "O a way to have fun." "The?" "Only problem there?" "grab a Lepto-know-l?" "o-qu ?" "." "No one knows what?" "that, but do not worry." "When your nails ca?" "Rem you?" "You know who took it." "The best standing wave in the world is at the heart ... ?" "Texas." "This m?" "Cinchona, invented by surfer Tom Lochtefeld ... pumping?" "water against a wall." "If nature do not do the wave, surfers do it." "The guy at the controls decides who stays and who goes." "" Get out of here, young lady. "" "Kelly Slater in True tube stopped." "This?" "the inventor the boogie board, Tom Morey ..." "I think doing some tests." "The operator decides:" "" Get out of here, Tom ... at top speed. "" "The surf now?" "worldwide craze." "Est?" "Surfing at?" "in Alaska." "?" "The population of surfers Alaska: two." "Surfers do all to catch waves." "Rusty Pedersen and Craig Green, Deceased in the Creek ... carrying the Dead River ... properly baptized because bears eat people." "They j?" "We ate much salmon?" "o, do not place left for surfers." "" I smell surfers. "" "They thought it best to leave close to sneak Bears." "S?" "Bears seen." "These bears s?" "The imprevis?" "Ble and very dangerous." "They love meat, and for them, Rusty and Craig's from the meat." "?" "You better?" "s give the outside ?" "." "If you?" "get leaving the Dead River ... arrives?" "Deceased forest." "If you can spend by Dead forest ... reaches the Dead Cliff and the ocean." "?" "everything you would expect:" "rainy, windy ... cold and p?" "ssimo." "But if you?" "?" "surfer, Be happy." "No it has no one I ?" "." "Ilha Kodiak, the region?" "o " Tropical " Alaska ... temperature?" "water, refreshing 4 degrees." "These guys s?" "The s?" "Ntese Looking Glass?" "rite of surfing." "The conditions ?" "es can do not be good, but they're the excited." "Rusty est?" "with all this." "One tube." "LSSO!" "The session?" "The end when arises hypothermia." "In Alaska, do not leave his board giving mole per ?" "." "" Who modeled this thing?" "The side s?" "Very thin." "I hate short boards." "I bet this drug nor would float me. "" "The greatest surfer of the dream would be follow the surf and see?" "the ... over the world." "Our journey eat?" "A night in Southern California?" "CALIFORNIA." "In 'Movie S?" "Bado?" "Night"... celebrating 30 years, " The Endless Summer, " Bruce Brown." "Pat and sit Wingnut to watch my film of 1964 ... cent by?" "yesa time." "I was not even born when he made the film." "Wingnut eat?" "Or to talk about it." "You know, we I could do this." "With a little f?" "and dropping the lazy?" "the ... who knows how many things wonderful est?" "the per ?" "." "They spent the night planning." "There were so many places to go." "It would be more pr?" "Tico go to places where j?" "They knew people." "So it would be cheaper." "The blond guy?" "Pat O'Connell, 20, of Dana Point, Calif?" "CALIFORNIA." "Robert 'Wingnut' Weaver, 26 years, ?" "Santa Cruz ... and surf a longboard as made in the 50s and 60s." "He do not interested by modern short boards." "Wingnut seems to live in another era." "He knows more of the old days I surf, and I was there ?" "." "He never told where He got the nickname " Wingnut "." "It must be something pretty bad." "Al?" "M traditional maneuvers how to go at the end of the board ... it also?" "m doing things with which we never dreamed." "One thing ?" "right:" "Wingnut loves surfing." "The?" "Only person who can love more surfing that Wingnut ... ?" "Pat O'Connell." "Pat surf the shortboard, smaller, more modern and lighter." "He came from Chicago, all poss?" "ble places ... and moved to California?" "CALIFORNIA when I was 1 2 years." "He participates in competition for ?" "es be able to pay the rent and travel." "Mention a regular job and he is white." "Think of these waves Breaking Without him ... ?" "something very dif?" "cil for him to bear." "What Pat and Wingnut t?" "M in common?" "They love surfing." "To travel the world you?" "You need money." "Pat had 7000 d?" "Households He won a competition ?" "the surf." "Wingnut told Pat ... he had hidden money in vain rivers banks in the world." "But I guess that do not." "You?" "You have to say goodbye of loved ones." "" Honey, I travel the world for a few months. "" "They may do not stay t?" "o thrilled as you ?" "." "For a surfer, packing It can take a long time ... about 5 minutes." "Pat takes only 30 seconds." "He plays everything inside the surfboard bag." "When full, he is?" "ready." "Wingnut?" "the opposite." "Everything has to be tidy." "The Felix Unger the " Odd Couple " the surf." "Wingnut asked Robert August that made a board for the trip." "Robert attended the first " Endless Summer '." "This?" "Robert to 1 8 years ago ... and at age 30 and after 30,000 boards." "You?" "S v?" "The travel?" "After 30 years covered by p?" "Foam ..." "Robert has great pleasure in espalh?" "it." "My board est?" "Ready?" "Where Are you?" "S v?" "O?" "Let's go at?" "end the money." "I'll ?" "Costa Rica In the next week." "You?" "S could go with me." "Looks cool." "Quickly they planned all and the journey begun I." "They took a plane?" "O at?" "San Jos ?" ", Costa Rica." "After an avi?" "The lowest at?" "the favorite place of Robert ... a small town Ocean Pac?" "I'm calling ..." "Tamarindo." "This?" "the airport lnternational Tamarindo ... the passenger terminal and the control tower." "The three controller?" "TRAFFIC to?" "Reo spends time taking runway animals." "The Costa Rican friend of Robert, Marco Pacheco, goes Found?" "Them." "They head the Tamarindo Resort ... belonging to a Texan called Russ." "The pre?" "Depend on the how much Russ likes you ?" "." "Mike, an old friend of Robert surf ..." "It was to I?" "and helps run the place." "Wingnut, Pat, Marco." "Conhe?" "The Marco." "Here Est ?" "." "Thank you, Mike." "L?" "we n?" "s." "Inside." "Big girl." "Show me the plank Robert did to you ?" "." "Catch him!" "Morning ?" ", they hit the road and fall in training?" "TRAFFIC morning." "The Costa Rica?" "a beautiful pa?" "s with hundreds of quil?" "meters from beaches ... back Pac?" "am and the Caribbean." "This?" "one of the local woodcutters." "Forests s?" "The hardwood." "In passing, you?" "note the stakes of the fence ... est?" "eats?" "walk to sprout, returning to be?" "trees growing." "?" "so it looks like a stake about 200 years." "Let's course?" "Pac coast?" "I get, in the dire ?" "Nicaraguan border?" "ense ... and a place named Witch's Rock." "To get ?" "beach you?" "need to go through this stud?" "river ... where Cain?" "He Lives." "The Cain?" "The?" "a variety Crocodile ... but do not t?" "great, only 3 or 4 m." "They do not saw Cain?" "O some, but this was in the head?" "to them." "They " rowed " using only the fingertips." "They arrived safely at the beach, but the sand est?" "too hot." "LSSO causes have to run at?" "the beach." "There were beautiful waves at Witch's Rock ... only four and more no one around." "Robert August, after 48 years, it seems the same surfer 1 8 years." "The wave of the day He was to Pat." "He was sunburnt, so it was in the shade." "A boat appeared on the breaks ?" "." "He belonged to one of the cousins the sister?" "Mark." "They carried a load at?" "the coast." "Surfers asked for a ride at?" "a place called Ollie's Point." "They'll take us?" "Climb aboard, friend." "How are you?" "Very good." "Good to see you." "The?" "Single means of arriving to Ollie's Point?" "of boat." "When they arrived I ?" ", the wind blew the earth ... very good for surfing, if you?" "able to take his board." "The sea was too." "Another beautiful place ... ?" "Optimal waves and no one around." "Marco has a workshop boards in San Jos?" "... which is 5 times of the ocean." "Why be?" "what the neg?" "ness do not see so well?" "Pat razed." "Wingnut?" "good at improvisation." "It turns something that happens ... into something that looks he had the intention to do ?" "." "The inhabitants named Ollie's Point because of Oliver North." "Supposedly, the CIA had a secret base in the valley ... which provided weapons the rebels in NICAR?" "water." "It was a big secret." "That is why, they call him Ollie's Point." "Everyone knew it, except Congress." "This?" "type of day with which surfers dream:" "just you?" "and your friends, good wind ... ?" "Water to 30 degrees, quality waves ... and parqu?" "more pr meter?" "ximo far away." "They had to walk back to Witch's Rock." "No one saw if the s?" "footprint in any way." "They went down a river and went through?" "s jungle." "The jungles est?" "The full of monkeys." "They seem le?" "S moaning." "Look at this stuff!" "You?" "also?" "m gemeria if their eggs were frozen." "H?" "many girls and beautiful in Costa Rica." "Pat fell in love, often." "Robert said that they liked older men, as it ... rather little boys as Pat and Wingnut." "The Spanish I do not perfect it was." "On weekends, Costa Rica?" "a party." "They dance am of Friday?" "at night?" "second, when v?" "the work." "Most towns have v?" "holiday " fiestas " during the year." "Each It has a local band." "Everyone appears, even those who live far away." "They spend the s?" "Bados parading for the?" "... m playing?" "sic drinking Guaro, a local drink ... made of cane a car ?" "and nitroglycerin." "The main event of " fiesta " this city takes place on Sunday ... when they pick up some bulls and let them brave enough ... or who j?" "He drank a lot Guaro, try mont?" "them." "They were going to try, but when the bull He came close, seemed too big." "They took a look and sa?" "I Ram?" "like a rocket." "I scraped knees, I never felt so afraid." "Drinks v?" "M in pl bags?" "Sticos so do not throw bottles are in the arena." "This guy was my her?" "I. He drank so much Guaro ..." "I could barely stand ?" ", p but knew how to ride!" "They met a boy on-site restaurant ... who said he would take the to surf on your avi?" "o." "He had a hidroavi?" "The second." "War and knew some nice places." "They thought it was face conversation, but do not age." "The v?" "O was a little strange." "V?" "The cool, let's surf." "Let's go?" "!" "Thank you." "Thank you." "It was a v?" "Radical." "No problem." "I know, man." "A place called Playa Negra:" "sunny, good wind ... and perfect condition ?" "es." "The temperature of?" "Water It was about 31 degrees." "They surfed in colder places ... and other with?" "warmer water." "Robert plans to live in a property, nearby ... forever, or at?" "die, whichever comes first." "Things to do Wingnut They never cease to amaze me." "Here, after the fall ... he was at?" "the board who was fit?" "down ..." "He stood on it, and continued surfing." "Pat and Wingnut always discuss on the type board." "Pat took a chance?" "longboard." "He said:" "" No'm cool? "" "A week away from California?" "CALIFORNIA ... and j?" "live your dream a see?" "endless." "Pat?" "the more enthusiastic surfer of all time." "No matter the condition ?" "sea, est?" "always a good." "I think we do not have a day ?" "No he says:" "" That was the best wave that j?" "I took in life! "" "Every day he says the same thing." "This particular day he decided without d?" "life at ... that this was the best wave he j?" "He had taken in life." "He do not was joking, really felt it." "When you est?" "excited, walks at the beach for an hour or two." "While Pat and Wingnut t?" "M the beaches Costa Rica s?" "for them... let's see what is?" "happening, while in Hawaii ?" "." "North Shore of Oahu, the coast the most famous surf the world." "Of Velvyland where surfed the first time in 1958 ... and was named after boards builder Dave Velvy ... at?" "Sunset Beach, Rocky Point, Pipeline, Waimea Bay and Haliewa ... the most famous in the world for its big waves." "This?" "a wave of size m?" "dio, around 5 m." "Yet large enough to scare any normal person." "The lower, more crowded it gets." "A 3 m?" "rid?" "culo." "The guy at the top a card sends to the m and?" ":" "'?" ", Surfed Waimea today.' '" "If you think you're here?" "sold out d?" "a look on the road." "The beaches also?" "M do not were deserted." "More photographic lenses?" "Stay that in a lan?" "ning space." "Before you?" "It could be arrested By using these swimsuits." "This to?" "still can." "The breaks ?" "the most spectacular there?" "the tube." "The most impressive wave of the world." "?" "t?" "the hollow and breaks so is?" "the ... displacing as much air and?" "water You could kill you." "?" "better check where est?" "going." "You can get out of?" "Water without a p ?" "." "Some local surfers made career these tubes." "I call them elite." "Guys like Johnny Boy Gomez, Michael and Derek Ho ..." "Liam McNamara, Sunny Garcia, Larry Rivers, Gerry Lopez ... s?" "the experts." "If you think you can come along and putting bank ... will be one experi?" "NCIA and both." "The right tube ?" "Call back door." "Stay long at the crest Wave can cause disorders." "Delve deep into the tube and leave again?" "an art." "Even after so many waves Ghost?" "sticas who took ... when they get a good, yet they are happy." "The tube ?" "a very dangerous place." "The wave ?" "dangerous enough ... but d?" "a look at the background." "Shallow and stones." "All sorts of things to beat and holes to get stuck." "The holes, you?" "finds chunk the board, teeth, whatever." "The ?" "curls the West pushes sand into the channel ... ending with more depth." "Ent?" "O you?" "want out the wave in time." "Skirt!" "If you do not leave, You will end up eating sand." "What to do now?" "No is the?" "Water to soak." "For get to?" "and face the animal." "Doing this leads to a commonplace." "Hundreds boards They break in North Shore." "Back in Honolulu, defeated." "The child?" "Hawaiian They grow on the beach." "" Ah!" "Paraffin mixed with sand and p?" "you dog." "Not bad."" "They j?" "face waves before they even get floor." "So it?" "S the good surfers." "They almost live in?" "Water." "A small mistake here and took a tumble." "The sibling found it hil?" "Rio." "When you?" "j?" "?" "an old man, Barron as T.J., which is 5 years ... need to eat?" "air to walk a plank." "His father modeling boards." "TJ still do not handle wave alone, then?" "the father d?" "one push?" "o." "Once I?" "inside, it destroys." "TJ makes the kids cringe." "For T.J., each wave It has twice the size." "Five years, 1, 0 m 1 and 20 kg." "He can break when is much older, to six years." "Let's see what Pat and Wingnut est?" "the plotting." "They crossed Ocean Atl?" "ntico ... towards pr ximo destination?" "Fran a." "SOMEWHERE OF FRAN?" "The ..." "The cheapest car carrying the board was a Deux Chevaux 67." "The first problem was find sa?" "of Paris." "Finally they made it out Paris and get on the highway ... found that where the car do not was compat?" "level with the road." "It s?" "It reached 40 km / h." "They were going to find Tommy Curren ... a famous surfer from California?" "CALIFORNIA who lived v?" "rivers years ... in Biarritz, that s?" "then?" "o They saw that was 640 km away." "To do not be bowled over on the highway ... they took roads neighborhood, and soon lost." "They used towels to shelter from the rain." "If you?" "est you think?" "lost on the road, wait at?" "stop to eat." "They do not speak a word of franc?" "s." "" Point to somewhere the card?" "pious and pray. "" "I thought I ?" "translates the pro ingl?" "s." "You Know some of these things?" "N?" "I have id?" "Would." "Pretend?" "franc's." "What ?" "that?" " 'Le r ti de porc?" "' '." "What ?" " " Des escargots. "" "I asked slugs!" "Believe that?" "I asked slugs." "I will release the animals, man." "No I can eat it." "It rained for two days ... but they managed to go the 640 km at?" "Biarritz ... and locate the home of Tommy." "Like two wet chicks ... when the storm It got worse." "They've managed to s." "D?" "to surf?" "?" "Optimal condition ?" "es." "You can go take a look when my friend arrived." "They were at?" "one of the beaches places to check." "The rain of hundred years." "Tommy do not say, but you?" "You know what I was thinking." "" You?" "S should be here yesterday. "" "In the?" "Last day in Biarritz, Finally the storm passed." "Surf?" "very popular ... much more than?" "in the United States." "They do some of their pr Pippen boards:" "Superfrog." "It seems to California?" "CALIFORNIA." "Surf shops everywhere." "One of the beaches, saw the inhabitants wear little clothing." "It takes a little to get used to." "I think she liked me." "What do you?" "you think?" "I think if you?" "living here and get the hang of it ... d?" "to spend." "There is a way to get used to it?" "You?" "passes once and do not return." "Never come back to take another look." "Tommy?" "one of the most influential surfers?" "d last?" "each." "Tr?" "S times champion?" "The world in professional circuits ... but still ?" "The most Surfers call 'soul surfer' '." "Tommy?" "man of few words." "He lets his surfing, and your hand sic ... we are hearing now, speak for themselves." "He?" "m?" "logical within d '?" "gua." "Whenever Pat and looked Wingnut to the beach, they saw breasts." "LSSO shifted the focus ?" "the." "It got bad later but it's alright." "Everyone jumped on longboards and they were having fun." "Some surfers get bored if the sea do not est?" "good." "They do not." "They always est?" "the order of what is?" "rolling." "Shortboard, longboard, body surf." "Tommy?" "good at all." "Pat tried to learn to play viol?" "e Tommy tried to help." "How to do it?" "It was very nice." "We're in the middle of the can ?" "." "'Sorry, I was enjoying it." "Let's eat?" "O." "Snoopy, the dog Tommy, Pat thought he played well ... and wanted to return to Paris with him." "He got mad when Tommy tried tir?" "I do the car." "Snooppy?" "one groupie, I do not could do nothing." "He really liked the m?" "Sica Pat." "Bye-bye, child?" "The." "We will miss you .." "Fran?" "A, they traveled through?" "S the African continent ... course?" "pr xima stop?" "?" "South Africa." "The world famous landmark Cape Town?" "Table Mountain." "H?" "a cable car that leads to the top." "They joined the other tourists for the ride." "From the top, you?" "looks to the pen?" "nsula ... the end of Africa." "The Atl?" "Ntico is on one side and the Ocean?" "ndico on the other." "The landscapes around Cape Town s?" "the spectacular." "They arranged a meeting with her father South African surfing, John Whitmore." "He?" "the same guy who showed the pa?" "s Mike and Robert in 1964." "This?" "John surfing in?" "Poca." "A lot has changed." "The city grew, what do not let John very happy." "Look at all these homes." "Before I do not was nothing." "He likes to grumble, but it has a ?" "blush gold." "John took them a surf saf?" "Ri on the West Coast ... the same thing he had done by surfers for d?" "decades." "John now est?" "retired." "He built boards for over 35 years ... and spent relat?" "surf rivers by r?" "dio your bathroom overlooking the sea." "They went to a place in Atl?" "ntico called Elandsbaai." "They were lucky." "The day It was good, which was rare." "Wingnut was in for?" "So surfer." "You?" "never go hungry here." "In March low ... you?" "manages to catch lobsters in po?" "the." "Pat?" "vegetarian." "With its energy ... imagine how it would be if he eat meat." "It would InControl?" "Vel." "Wingnut?" "degree in Economics from the University of Santa Cruz." "Maybe I wanted to learn the economy surfing more and work less." "The cold Bengal current comes from Ant?" "rtica ... and?" "water?" "cold, in winter or see?" "o." "Never exceeds 20 degrees." "Wingnut do not believe." "I kept yelling:" "" We are in?" "Africa." "It's in the ?" "the best wave of your life? "" "Pat said: " It was at?" "one longboarder end it. "" "John came up with his boogie board to catch some waves." "He stopped surfing about 1 0 years atr?" "s ... because the waves were too full to your liking." "With a boogie board it can surfing the algae ... where boards with keels do not can go." "After 65 years, it takes a good wave, still lets out a scream." "It was a day of surfing fun in Elandsbaai." "" Hey, man, playing here. "" "In the?" "South Africa, the child?" "always come." "And est?" "Always happy." "A unique restaurant It is on the coast of Elands." "If you?" "I do not know him, direct pass through it." "If you want to eat, call the phone number 1 7." "They'll cook for you m ?" "." "Everything?" "done in fires." "P?" "The freshly baked Outside ovens ... 20 different types of fish and seafood ... with the trim ?" "that you?" "imaginable." "LSSO that place ?" "lim?" "and the butter." "They put together a feast that you?" "You do not believe me." "It costs 30 rand, about 1 0 d?" "American homes." "When you?" "think that j?" "ate too much ... they bring the dessert: all the lobster as you can eat." "To enhance the charm ..." "H?" "one?" "great place to surf right in front." "The favorite place of John ?" "west coast?" "South Africa ... the least populated place populated the planet." "Thousands of quil?" "Meters of deserted beaches." "Windswept, cloudy, with?" "cold water, many algae." "Throughout Skeleton Coast We find right handed?" "the ships." "In some places you?" "You can drive by v?" "quil rivers?" "meters the beach." "The further north, drier it becomes." "John has a friend who lives I ?" ", where it rained 1, 2 cm ... 1 to 4 years old." "The vegetation ?" "finally d?" "place?" "s endless dunes." "This place?" "the face John Whitmore." "Who knows how many?" "Sweetbreads places to surf on this coast can be ... on time." "They ended up in a place John calls " No. 27 " ... because there?" "27 other places pr?" "ximos similar to this." "?" "scary out here for the first time." "No one around,?" "Cold water, not a clue what h?" "in deep... and?" "greater good than it looked from the beach." "This place is in the middle to the?" "s the shark?" "white." "No it?" "for nothing John have stayed on the beach." "In his boogie board, he I feel like shark bait?" "o." "Even after accustomed, still scary." "The salinity of?" "Water and the waves crashing ..." "They formed a strange foam." "John called this place of No mere 27." "Them, " Recife Strange "." "They had a beautiful adventure on the West Coast ... but it was time to return ?" "Cape Town... and go due to pr?" "'d put to the East Coast ... along the ocean?" "ndico." "John had a car for them." "H?" "years he do not walk." " The perfect ve Tour century." "Well, do not?" "Where you found this thing?" "No I found him." "He grew up." "Far?" "Is adjustable?" "Ble ... incr?" "ble cleaners p?" "ra windshield." "The gas tank I was rusty ... then?" "John placed other in back ..." "He called the carburetor ..." "He improvised a league ?" "the ... and wished good luck to them." "The right side?" "Suicide hatred." "'Here we drive on the left side, ent?" "o, ?" "the attention. "" "It takes a little getting used to." "Ready for another adventure, heading for Cape St. Francis ... 800 km above on the coast of?" "ndico ... retracing the steps of Mike and Robert 30 years before." "When you?" "d?" "face with a 'pile' of these ... has id?" "ia that can be in the vicinity a." "Sitting in a buggy, looking for the true African elephant ... ?" "something pretty impressive." "The elephant ?" "the animal the most dangerous?" "Africa." "Pat and Wingnut do not know that." "They can run 65 km / h ... and go from zero to 65 in 3.2 seconds ... 1 0 second most r?" "Pido the buggy." "When stretching the ears, ?" "because est?" "the brave." "No matter how many National Geographics you?" "I have seen." "See a close animal in his pr?" "prio habitat ... ?" "one experi?" "NCIA that you?" "never power?" "forget." "The animal with the highest fingernails in the legs?" "the ostrich." "They swallow anything Pat O'Connell size." "H?" "large farms of ostriches by l ?" ", as cattle farms." "They did training to tame ostriches ... but they do not got jobs." "They explored the coast Ocean?" "ndico ... on the way to the Cape St. Francis ... where we surfed 30 years earlier." "The dream of Wingnut It was crossing the dunes ... to give first glance at sea." "Pat said:" "" Wingnut this?" "idiocy." "Now has the road to I ?" ". " Wingnut said ..." "" I know, but always I wanted to do it. "" "It took nearly 30 years since the day that ..." "Robert August, Mike Hensen, Terence the?" "Africa and a guy named James ..." "They crossed the dunes look to the sea." "No it was nothing I ?" ", just perfect waves." "Now, tr?" "S d?" "Ed after ..." "Pat and crossed Wingnut the same dunes ... to give the first look." "A place with 1, 000 homes luxurious and condom?" "domains." "The sea was still there ?" ", and they were surfing." "No it was t?" "The perfect As soon... because vegetation planted the ?" "the dunes for stabilizers?" "Las ... and maintaining the sand outside the houses." "The sand used to enter the sea and fill the rocky bottom ... which was smooth, leaving the perfect waves." "No sand to fill the rocky bottom ... the sea est?" "more irregular and break into pieces." "Furthermore ?" "a beautiful wave, but do not?" "the same thing." "We were the first to surf here in the '60s ... and when we asked for fishermen how long so broke ... they said, " All the time. " It was s?" "what they said." "S?" "we found that do not was always so." "Wingnut was thrilled by surfing the wave dreamed ..." "H?" "so many years." "Pr?" "Ximo to Cape St. Francis ..." "They crossed with a truck?" "o I thought it was broken ... and stopped to help." "Pleasure." "What Est?" "doing?" "Ajustando The sights of the rifle." "Can I shoot?" "Of course." "What a great shot." "It looks like a torpedo." "I never shot before." "Hold tight." "D?" "a beautiful kick." "Oh my God!" "No we can us?" "It does at?" "I clean the drum." "He was a little upset by Pat dropping the gun." "You?" "clean and ready." "A?" "Great place to surf in?" "Africa South is called Jeffreysbaai ... do not far away Cape Saint Francis." "They were going to find the most famous Surfer?" "Africa, Shaun Tomson." "The first eyesight was memor?" "Vel, one of the best days of the year ... and " Mr. Jaybaai " Shaun Tomson, raged." "Shaun and Walter friend came Durban, where they live ... to find Pat and Wingnut." "This?" "Walter." "Nice to meet you ?" "." "Nice." "Waves." "Big waves." "vi Who got perfect waves." "A?" "Last was impressive." "Not bad, to an old man." "Come with us, we will come again." "That wave!" "Curls ?" "the picks up the?" "whole area ... the wave will going ..." "It seems a great irony." "We find the perfect wave St. Francis ... t?" "pica of a longboard, but nearby ... est?" "the location that would be considered the perfect wave ... by default?" "s today." "Pat with a good one." "No to think he was happy?" "Wingnut an surfed which lasted more than a minute." "They say that in one day in Jaybaai ... you?" "You can catch a wave for about 5 minutes." "Back in Santa Cruz, he say?" "your friends ... '?" ", Jaybaai ..." "I, Shaun Tomson, you know ..." "I gave him some tips. "" "Shaun takes surge worldwide and Jaybaai yet?" "his favorite place." "My favorite wave?" "to Jeffrey." "Doing this?" ", I love the wave." "It provides many varieties, much is?" "a." "She?" "very r?" "rupted ... but also?" "m d?" "for strong moves ... and has Ghost tubes?" "sticos ... what?" "the thing I like best." "When you?" "think that est?" "rocking in?" "gua ... some guys show to humble you." "If you?" "swam thus You do not need a board ... or strap ... or wetsuit ..." "or a car." "Among millions?" "Es of Zulus the?" "South Africa ..." "Walter?" "the only one surfing." "It s?" "surfed near Durban, where?" "shallow and sandy ... ent?" "o, losing the board, ?" "s?" "stay p ?" "." "No s do not realize, but he never learned to swim." "A friend said:" "" If you need to swim, beat the bra?" "The ... and beat the p?" "s like a sapo." "THE?" "you?" "go swimming. "" "PAPS do not could believe." "The guy surfing ... but do not know how to swim!" "Voc?" "love the sea?" "I Love because ... the sea and the surf make me happy." "?" "Sometimes I'm going surfing because of the problems." "If I'm surfing, I do not think of them." "S?" "I'm waiting for the wave." "I think he summed up very well the feelings of surfers." "They were with Shaun and Walter for a few weeks ... and they became friends." "When it came time to leave, They gave many things to Walter ... turning it into a genu?" "in ... surfer." "There was a guy named J.P. ..." "John Whitmore He asked that they seek." "Voc?" "should be J.P. Okay." "I'm Pat, this?" "Wingnut." "Nice." "John said you?" "show some animals for us." "Can I take you?" "S, or they can go alone." "All right go driving?" "N' Leave the car." "Maybe you?" "S find some cats." "?" "a little late, but it can be." "V?" "Like ride." "At?" "later." "Certainly." "No stop or the have?" "the major problems." "No it was a good time for the buggy engui?" "air." "No taste of use the word " death "." "The buggy booth?" "light, of fiberglass." "It seems they were a can of food for cats." "God." "And I thought the guys the bad beach." "They're the eating my card?" "The Texaco." "682 01:04:50,755 -- 01:04:53,053 Bye-bye, wetsuit." "Pat told Wingnut: " I said to do not let that meat in the bag! "" "The le?" "S spent the rest the day eating their luggage." "Wingnut spent the rest of the time Surfing well ventilated." "They left the buggy in Cape Town ..." "They said goodbye to John Whitmore ..." "They traveled by Ocean?" "Ndico ... the Australian continent ... and by Pac?" "I get south ... to Fiji ... and an island in particular, Tavarila." "In Tavarila h?" "a resort construction?" "s?" "for surfers ... something I do not imagine atr few years?" "s." "It has some cabins called 'barays' ... nothing fancy, but nice." "?" "a beautiful island with two of the best surf the world places." "They went down in Nandi, the main island of Viti Levu ..." "They rose on a bier to go to Tavarila." "?" "even a beautiful place." "Pat and Wingnut down H?" "few hours of avi?" "the ... and j?" "They were in the waves before the bust ?" "the so-called " Restaurants "." "The wind came up." "They jumped in the waves ... but they found that the morning?" "improve and it would be too much." "Truly, Fiji?" "the land of see?" "endless." "And Ar?" "Close to 30 degrees water throughout the year." "They had Hope?" "To a good sea, but of course ..." "I was flat as a board." "Maybe with the tide High the sea improve." "No the better." "Even without surf, Tavarila was a place?" "thymus to be." "You?" "You can cross the whole island 1 to 5 minutes." "While they were there ?" ", They became friends two people ... called Eddie and Eulie." "Eulie loves surfing, but for Eddie, ?" "something half per?" "odo." "I try every day." "I should work." "But ?" ", No time for surfing." "Surf Every day." "When you?" "catch a wave, you?" "I smile." "Surf?" "fun." "Fish do not?" "." "?" "Sometimes the fishing?" "good." "Enough tuna to feed the whole population ?" "the island." "Eddie and Eulie took both to visit other islands." "H?" "300 islands Fiji ... about 50 of them close enough to go bier." "A?" "different from each other." "Some have?" "Sweetbreads resorts ... some s?" "the native villages, and other s?" "the uninhabited." "The?" "Most beautiful water that j?" "saw." "This small island ?" "pure white sand." "No Footprint?" "view." "This stick?" "National Forest." "Eddie, Descal?" "O, come by sharp coral reefs razor." "The soles of your feet?" "S They seem radial tires." "Did The Aliens look cowards." "Eulie was always ready for a joke ... like trying to hit Pat with a coconut." "Pat said:" "" You?" "I could have killed me! "" "They had come to Tavarila ... because tr?" "s the best surfers the world would be there." "Kelly Slater, Jeff Booth and Tom Carroll." "Professional surfers the professional circuit ... with a s?" "rie of competition ?" "es in vain rivers pa?" "ses ... over one million?" "o cash as pr?" "mio." "Tavarila home to hundreds of sea snakes ... leaving the sea to rest or do what snakes do." "They s?" "The poisonous, do not h?" "ant?" "dote." "If they bite you ?" ", you?" "j?" "It was within 5 minutes." "But they t?" "M small mouths and n?" "s?" "the aggressive." "No need to worry." "Ent?" "O, t ?" "." "To celebrate their arrival, the inhabitants make a CERIM?" "nia." "?" "traditional CERIM?" "nia Welcome to h?" "illustrious Hotel Guests." "The Kava?" "made ra?" "zes kava pounded in?" "water." "It?" "Dirty water and has old sock taste." "You?" "Palm hitting once, swallows ... then claps tr?" "s times." "And ready." "It causes teeth to become soft." "The girlfriend Kelly do not ag?" "Entou, and spoiled his CD player." "The CERIM?" "Nia It became a party ... with all the kids dance walk." "J?" "it was late at night when Pat and Wingnut ... presented the Dan?" "a P?" "BIRD Rain Fiji." "So Kava, not all They made it back to the barays." "Whether luck, when you?" "You do not feel good ... and teeth est?" "the soft, the sea is good." "Here? " Cloud Break " near Tavarila ... in the middle of the ocean." "It seemed the day It would be beautiful." "D?" "to hear the waves crashing on the reef." "It looks like a thunder it." "There?" "S, the name given to the place means' thunder Reef?" "the "." "The waves were too." "This?" "Jeff Booth, Laguna Beach, California ... exploring the place." "Tom Carroll?" "Sydney, Austr?" "lia." "At 30, a veteran and twice champion?" "the world." "Kelly Slater, Coco Beach, Florida." "The wonder boy the professional circuit." "Campe?" "The world in 1993 at age 20." "It is the Fl?" "Rida, impresses it handles big waves." "Kelly est?" "doing almost all the tricks you know." "Pat took super waves, at?" "your belt broke." "His board passed the reef and was never seen again." "Luckily, he had a reserve." "No one believed as Wingnut longboard surfing the ... particularly Tom Carroll." "Wingnut deserves a medal." "He do not had any difficulty to control the board." "He stood firm." "Many of the contests where Kelly, Jeff and Tom take part ... s?" "with weak waves." "A wave of day so ... ?" "almost imposs?" "vel any contest." "But this contest?" "to see who caught the best wave." "Not bad, travel the world Surfing and still be paid." "Tom Carroll had his share incr of waves?" "ble." "Wearing helmets to protect the head?" "the shallow reef ..." "Tommy surfed every wave better than the other." "In situations ?" "s where at?" "the best seek safety?" "a ..." "Tommy took a turn ... and into the tube, even in the shallows." "Tommy Carroll, the wave perfect est?" "in Cloud Break." "This?" "type of day that you?" "dreams." "Perfect waves, Good size." "One of these days that s?" "a surfer understand." "You?" "surf nine hours straight, It has sunburn ... the bra?" "the hurt to do so is a." "You?" "It is full of cuts because the reef ... and has a big smile in the face." "?" "very noisy there, with the wind in the ear ... and the thunder of the waves." "But underneath ... ?" "a different universe, quiet and beautiful." "Wingnut spent much time under d '?" "water." "It took beautiful trambolh?" "Es." "Tombo!" "If you?" "do not go out of the wave, ?" "played against the reef ... and pulverized." "Wingnut do not usually wear belt." "Ali, do not have a choice." "I never heard of belt that stretched ... but when Wingnut eat?" "or day ..." "Belt it badly spent Plank tip." "After Cloud Break would al?" "m plank 3 m." "Note 1 0, Cloud Break ..." "Surfing with Kelly, Jeff and Tom." "N 'may be the best." "Fiji,?" "one v?" "o relatively short ... to pr?" "xima stop in Brisbane, Austr?" "lia." "Pat was there?" "when It was high school ... and stayed with Nat Young and his son, Beau." "Pat and Beau They were old friends ... and Nat was one of her?" "is of Wingnut." "Hi, Patty." "Wingnut, pleasure." "Brought the boards, we catch waves." "Wingnut wanted to go to?" "S Surfer, by name." "'Doing this?" "to?" "s? "" "No it was what he expected." "FOR?" "SO DO SURFlSTA, A FEW MlNUTOS DAQUl" "For 50 cents, some sunscreen." "Many construction ?" "es, but beautiful places to surf ... as Burleigh Heads." "Australian surfing ... and the sea is full." "Overall, surfing and ... and s?" "the aggressive." "Unless you know ?" ", carat ?" "'s hard wave running alone." "Pr?" "Tico that hair for surfing." "Elvis est?" "live and surfing the Austr?" "lia." "Surf?" "a national sport there and Nat?" "a hero?" "i do sport ... as a basketball player It would be the United States." "When we came to c?" "in the 60s ..." "Nat was 1 6 years ..." "It was one of a handful good surfers ... by default?" "s the?" "poca." "Was one of the l?" "Doest ?" "the evolution of the short boards." "Friends of Nat call Animal ... because it seems You never get bored." "His son, Beau, He turned one?" "surfer thymus." "After 2:30 h, Pat got a wave." "Wingnut found that the fund had stones ... and he was injured." "Nat said, " No it?" "anything, I can sew it. "" "Wingnut as bleeding, Nat took it?" "Ba?" "A of sharks." "L?" "do not be full." "Nat said it was because the?" "Past 1 0 s that?" "Ram do not come back." "After v?" "Hist holiday?" "Rias that scared ... they were nervous." "When you?" "est?" "in Austr?" "lia, you?" "go to the pub." "Simple like that." "H?" "a pub for every two Australians." "Where you?" "?" "I live in Dana Point, Calif?" "CALIFORNIA." "You?" "S still t?" "M those damn hippies communities?" "In the first week, I had chicken pox." "True?" "In My birthday?" "River, scarlet fever." "But I had fun." "What ?" "your name?" "Ruivo." "Wingnut am." "In Austr?" "Lia h?" "plates do not see yourself?" "nowhere else." "People like koalas more than they like people." "A lot of animals strangers I ?" "." "This?" "a flying fox, a fruit bat." "They carry Your Own?" "selves blankets." "Nat said they would ?" "Sweetbreads estimates of the animals ?" "." "If you want to eat, they pluck one chunk that of its jugular." "Travel with Nat." "V 'in one spider?" "It can kill you?" "S. " Follow me. "" "He?" "one?" "thymus guide for walks in the forest." "?" "better pay attention to ?" "in ch?" "o and do not the snake." "A walk through the forest with Nat becomes a deadly journey." "It takes you to a beautiful place, and then terrifies you." "No is the March No problem for Nat." "He always an adventure stored, eating?" "the dawn." "Come on ?" ", damn Yankees, let's raise." "Bozo, come on ?" "." "Patrick, come on ?" "." "He figured float the river would be a good thing." "Thread the hole." "This?" "another major plans Nat to kill us." "I have something else to you?" "S. No to be scared ..." "Capacetes?" "?" "cold." "Why do we need them?" "Only Place." "S?" "in case one emerg?" "INSTANCE." "Here we go." "Down the mighty Nymboida River." "They wore helmets, saves lives... but no one had id?" "ia what they were doing." "That do not stop them." "Let's beat?" "We try to avoid, but it can happen." "They spent the day made ping pong balls." "Many often before see if h?" "any danger." "They do not bother." "As always, Nat left smelling of roses." "He blamed in Wingnut." "He would sa?" "Of the?" "Water, but I do not know to stop." "Nat had tamed the powerful Nymboida." "Good." "That?" "the end Adventure in the river." "But first, there's one more thing." "The car est?" "on the road." "V?" "At?" "I?" "and bring him back." "Pack your bags and get out of here." "No it was going too long without Nat do not planned anything." "It was pulling, or, in this case, pulling them through the rear." "No gave to take Wingnut pl?" "Stico ... and he thought of spending with the car on him." "Nat do not could imagine because they lived asleep." "Nat decided lev?" "Them his secret place." "" I promised do not reveal the location, but I do not can resist. "" "Follow northward, Great pass the tractor ... with driver Great Tractor ... move on the Great Banana ... between?" "right the Grand Pineapple ... and coming to Great Camar?" "o, turn?" "left ... move on in Great Seafood ... and ends in a huge beach 50 km." "When you arrive at Great Ship Destro?" "Ado, turn?" "right ... and walk 1 2 km at?" "a large sandbar." "You?" "finally arrives the secret place of the Nat ... where to find?" "the smallest wave in the world." "It was beautiful every fall That day." "Nat had to climb the crest a killer wave." "Pat took the best Wave your life." "They drove by thousands quil?" "meters chasing waves ... and caught waves in d?" "Zias different beaches." "Nat surf well on longboards and short boards." "He gave in?" "Cio to a circuit international professional longboard." "He chooses the ju?" "Zes." "She won all but one." "" Sorry, Wingnut. "" "Surfing and traveling with Nat, The Animal, Unforgettable was?" "vel." "They do not found a sensational ocean ... ent?" "Nat took them northward ... where you?" "enters the?" "rea the crocodile?" "saltwater." "They measure more than 6 meters and people eat regularly." "As his father will put us now?" "Also?" "M we need to know how to defend ourselves in the jungle." "?" "a little scary this?" "area infested with crocodiles." "No the fall in?" "Water." "Crocodile, my ass." "" Surfers. "" "After two weeks adventures with Nat ..." "Wingnut do not know if I was dreaming or he was being tortured." "They felt lucky by sa?" "living in rem Austr?" "lia." "Brisbane, via?" "S the Australian continent ... at?" "the islands of Bali, one of the islands 1 ... 5000 the Rep?" "Republic of Indon?" "sia." "Every inch of Bali that do not?" "city ?" "?" "plant rice." "Smart people." "The pastor of geese place." "The goose eats insects and fertilize a ?" "the plant in a s?" "operates the ?" "." "Most of the people ?" "Buddhist or Hindu." "?" "one of the most densely places populated the planet." "Washing b?" "Phalluses." "H?" "love of the places ?" "and temples everywhere." "The monkeys s?" "The sacred, and well desagrad?" "ble." "It seems that the population will ?" "the Kuda Beach over the weekend." "You?" "you can buy anything I ?" "." "?" "a beach of black sand, ent?" "o they p?" "in white sand ... and sweep that it is beautiful." "You?" "You can choose from 1 0000 real Rolex ... ?" "sale in Kuda for 1 0 bucks." "U.S. s?" "The most expensive." "It costs 00 bucks a 1 .." "The tr?" "TRAFFIC in Bali ?" "inacredit?" "vel." "The only place that?" "worse ?" "the island of Java ... where they were then to find Gerry Lopez." "The Bali trip Java?" "rid?" "cannula." "Truck?" "Es and Buses?" "all in lane road?" "nica." "A ferry crossing the Channel Banjuwangi ..." "It takes you?" "?" "island of Java." "They arrive in the morning?" "a fishing village ... where Gerry said he could take a boat to the llha-G." "No one there?" "spoke a word in English and?" "s." "This?" "my friend." "And the boat to llha-G?" "L ?" "llha-G." "T ?" ", thanks." "L ?" "." "The kids must have one repair shop." "No it took to are at sea." "Modern boats high-tech." "The capit?" "O has a rudder for remote ... diesel engines the outside ... chap?" "fashion us made bag pl?" "stico." "Two boys take the?" "Water for mant?" "it does floating." "No one of the mans ?" "speaks ingl?" "s ... and I?" "ngua of Indon?" "sia for them ?" "nonexistent." "Why we are fishing?" "I thought we were going surfing." "This boat goes to llha-G?" "They always respond 'yes'." "Gerry Lopez." "We're going surfing." "You think we took the wrong boat?" "I'm sure we took the wrong boat." "That do not?" "our boat?" " ?" ",?" "our boat." "Rapazes, Our boat!" "The real ship was looking for them there?" "hours." "They made new friends ever see?" "forget it." "The mans ?" "also the?" "M I do not forget them." "Now yes, in luxury." "When you?" "arrives?" "llha-G ... will dinghy the reef ... and I?" "Gerry and Laird Hamilton They were waiting." "J?" "do not was no time." "Why they walked?" "Voc?" "S succeeded." "I was worried about you?" "S." "We took a boat ride." "No the instruction sent ?" "s?" "You?" "I told him to get a boat in Grajagan." "Cabanas simp?" "Tics, with mats ... and mosquito nets, that you?" "You need much." "Java?" "thickest place populated the planet." "Ironically, the llha-G, acess?" "vel only by boat ... is a jungle reserve with a sea frontline." "This part of the jungle ?" "called " Plenkung "." "?" "a national reserve, ent?" "o no one lives here." "V?" "S rivers Tigers?" "The sighted, numerous leopards and panthers ... and many monkeys." "Keep an eye on your stuff." "They can lev?" "Las." "They'll direct his things." "Many snakes." "The lndon?" "Asia has more snakes poisonous than anywhere else." "I learned this at the Museum Griffith Park, a ?" "the exhibition of snakes." "In March low, you?" "can walk at?" "the breaks ?" "the." "Gerry and his friend first saw this wave of a plane?" "the ... in a v?" "o to Bali." "They wondered where it was ... and after much difficulty, I arrived ?" "." "He has returned to friends of Maui ... the?" "1 past five years." "The a surfer of Calif?" "CALIFORNIA do not give ... to surf with Gerry Lopez and Laird Hamilton in llha-G?" "Pat took a lot of?" "Optimal waves." "This?" "In one?" "mere waves Wingnut of the llha-G." "Gerry uses?" "Polaroid glasses to protect the view of reflection ... because he usually stays the?" "water 8-1 0 hours." "Gerry?" "known as' Mr. Tube '... because it established a style surfing waves in dif?" "ficult." "He was the surfer by which all others were measured." "Here's what Laird You have to say about Gerry." "What brought Gerry for this sport ... ?" "the ability to do things seem t?" "f?" "ficult ... when s?" "dif?" "ficult and he remains calm while does." "Gerry is happy only Surfing and living." "It could be the contr?" "River, j?" "that he... all surfed perfect waves, whenever were good ... and it could be as uninterested in all of us." "But?" "the contr?" "river." "He?" "the most enthusiastic." "Gerry Lopez was one of the surfers pioneers in lndon?" "sia." "It has a protected than They became international surfers." "This?" "a young called Risal." "He do not surf h?" "long time, but j?" "arrasa." "You?" "also?" "m raze it had waves as they regularly." "A surfer named Mad?" "?" "other protected from Lopez." "Mad?" "?" "Hindu, and they t?" "m the habit of grinding teeth." "And do not with local dentists." "I told them about my teeth." "They screwed my teeth with metal sandpaper." "E d?" "I?" "I Think you?" "I do not would like." "makes Noise?" "No the d?" "to make noise with his mouth open." "They do this because?" "a Hindu thing?" "When you 1 6 years?" "when your fam?" "lia does CERIM?" "nia." "Or when they do?" "dies before being buried." "Rather more when it dies." "Laird Hamilton?" "impressive in?" "water." "Billy's father Laird was a great surfer in the 60s." "Laird?" "one nostalgic that?" "poca ... when surfers prided themselves They are good swimmers ... divers and paddlers:" "They did everything in?" "water." "Laird has its pr?" "Pippen priorities." "I'd rather be in a bad March with my friends... than a good with idiots." "But, usually one day Sea good you?" "est?" "alone." "Laird makes things interesting at sea... as journeys?" "cocks, long dist?" "..." "INSTANCE" "on his surfboard." "He called me from Europe ... and I said, " I took a borrowed board. '" "LSSO after accepting a league ?" "the charging of Fran?" "a." "N?" "S were C?" "Rsega, which is the Mediterr?" "neo ... at?" "the small island of Elba." "I thought they were 45 km ... but were 45 miles n?" "Uticas." "What?" "further." "Another thing that makes Laird?" "windsurfing on Maui, where he lives." "We sail between the islands, which?" "very cool." "Really?" "How long does it take?" "When Reached 60 ... 70 km / h, per?" "..." "Maui to Oahu, which is the first 90 km, we in five hours." "You?" "can find that?" "extreme." "He does other things which are so well rid?" "cells." "Inventou a new one." "With your friends, that's from the t?" "the crazy as it ... he enters a Zodiac boat, take a ski rope ... tows and others in waves too big to paddle." "Think about it for a minute." "A big wave too to go paddling." "In this case, used a jet sky as tow." "Laird surf reef with your friends..." "Darrick Doerner and Buzzy Kerbox." "They take turns, towing and being towed." "The helic?" "Ptero?" "a surf magazine I was taking pictures." "Laird est?" "arrested?" "board to do not be thrown away." "LSSO also?" "m lets fa?" "very crazy things." "Minced Laird." "No more the will with him." "They had one?" "Optimum stay Surfing with Gerry and Laird ... but it was time to travel through?" "s Pac?" "I'm ... in dire ?" "it?" "s their homes in California?" "CALIFORNIA." "Surfers s?" "The travelers, as the waves." "The waves are born from storms, far away ..." "They travel the oceans of the world... to break on the beaches to our delight." "These waves?" "S the real gift of nature to paragraphs." "No two are the same." "?" "such as printing?" "digital." "Pat and Wingnut back ?" "S beaches in California?" "CALIFORNIA." "They remember?" "The this trip and waves the rest of their lives." "But more than that ... they remember?" "the people, your friends." "With time and sufficient money ... you?" "You can go through life following the see?" "the the world." "I'm Bruce Brown." "Thanks for watching." "I hope everyone enjoyed the film." "The filme?" "The DEDlCADO A MEMBER Multo ESPEClAL OF EQUlPE ..." "BEVERLY JOHNSON." "SHE LOST vida IN ONE OF HELlC AClDENTE?" "HELICOPTER ..." "WHEN returning from a viagem, NO domingo OF P?" "SCOA OF 1994." "SHE WAS DOING WHAT DO LIKED." ".:" "Subtitles by crocow:."