" Reason for visit?" " I'm here to see my husband." " Taxi!" "Taxi!" " No, thank you." " Ms. Juliette?" " Oh." " Unfortunately your husband has been delayed in Gaza." "I'm Tareq." "His security officer at the United Nations." " Oh yes, yes, of course!" "Tareq." "Oh, it's a pleasure to finally meet you." " It's a pleasure to meet you, too." "May I?" " Oh, thank you." " Thank you." "Mark said he would call you when you got to the hotel." " Mark is all right?" " Mark is fine." "Please." " I've heard so much about you." " As I have about you." "This way." " Tareq!" "Tareq!" " Excuse me." "Please." " We would love to welcome you to the wedding in Alexandria." " Oh, excuse me." "This is a very old friend of mine." "And her daughter." "This is Ms. Juliette." "Um, I worked for her husband." " For her husband." "Juliette." "Like Juliette and Romeo?" " Yes." " How beautiful." " Thank you." " I am Yasmeen." " Oh, Yasmeen." "It's a beautiful name." " Shukran." " We've been invited to her wedding." " Oh!" "Uh, well thank you, and congratulations." "Thank you." "Oh no, I haven't had a cigarette since I was a teenager." " Do you mind if I..." " No." "Oh, no." "I liked the one before." " You're familiar with Arabic music?" " No, not at all." " It is Umm Kulthum - mother of Egypt." " She has a beautiful voice." " Yes." " The heat is remarkable." " It is at its worst at this hour." " It's November." " It's the first thing tourists notice." " How can anyone complain about the heat when women are dressed like that?" " They're accustomed to it." "How is your, uh, work?" "The, uh, magazine, isn't it?" " Yes." "Um, busy." "Always busy." "I'm happy to get away." "How long do you think the flare-up at the camp will last?" " I don't know." "But Mark is okay." " Oh, congratulations on your retirement." " Thank you." " Do you miss it, the UN?" " No." "I took my father's coffee shop." " I heard about that." " It occupies me." " Yeah." "Mark says it's the best coffee he's ever tasted." " Naturally I would have to agree with him." " He also says it's not the same without you." " He has a good heart." "How are your children?" " Oh, they're good." "Thank you." "Um, they're gone." "Out into the world." "Finally." " Must be nice to have more time to yourself now." " My son is on his honeymoon and Emily just finished university." "She's having difficulty though finding a job." " What is her specialty?" " Creative writing." "What?" " How will she make a living?" " Well, she's doing something she loves." "I'm so glad" "I finally came to the Middle East." " I never understood this "Middle East." Middle..." "Middle of where?" " Cairo." " Cairo it is." " Here's your passport." " Thank you." " And your key." " Any messages?" " No, I'm afraid not." "Oh, there is this one envelope waiting for you." " Oh." "Everything's fine." " If there is anything you should need, please." " Uh, how do you say thank you in Arabic?" " Shukran." "Shukran." " Shukran." " You'll be fluent in no time." " Hel- hello?" "Oh, Mark!" "Where are you?" "Hi." "No." "Oh, I'm fine." "I'm fine." "Oh, I can barely hear you." "Um, how long do you think?" "Huh?" "How is it now, hmm?" "Oh, Tareq is lovely." "Yes." "I thought he would be older." "We ran into a woman named Yasmeen?" "Oh, really?" "I thought so." "Yeah." "No, I can't." "I can't stay inside that long." "I'll go crazy." "You know me." "Hmm." "Oh, we have your embassy event." "Do you think you'll be back?" "I don't want to be stuck with the Petroleum Wives." "Oh, I hope so too." "Oh..." "Oh, I miss you." "Yeah, I love you." "Mm-hmm." "Hello?" "Hello?" " Big family!" " No." "Just work." "Shukran." " Ah, you're beautiful." " Fuck me." " Oh!" "I'm sorry." " Oh, no." "That- it's all right." "It's okay." " There is no sign." " It's all right." "It's okay." "Would" " Do" " Do you- Do you have the time?" "Do you know what time it is?" " Time?" "2pm." " Excuse me." " Oh, um..." " I'm sorry." "I'm disturbing you." " No, not at all." "Not at all." "This is Ms. Juliette." " Hello." "Hello." " Coffee?" "Uh, tea?" "Uh, juice?" " No, thank you." " Cigarette?" " I'm going crazy." " Is there something the matter?" " Oh, uh..." "No, I'm..." "I'm fine, I..." "You know, Mark warned me about wandering the streets alone." "Men keep following me." " You're a very beautiful woman." " Hmm..." "It's been years since, uh, men, young men, have, have..." " You find that hard to believe?" "Why don't I take you to the Pyramids?" " Oh, uh, Mark and I made a promise we'd see them together." " Of course." "Of course." "Then, uh, let us walk." " Okay." " Bye-bye." " This way." " Why is everyone staring?" " This café is for men." " What do the women do?" " Oh, other things." " No one said anything." " No, that would be rude." " Right." "I like your dress." " This is a galabia." " Hmm." " Thank you." " They're quite something, aren't they?" " I promised Mark, my husband, I would see them with him." " Mark Laroche?" "That was silly." " Why?" " He could be held up for weeks." " Then weeks it'll be." " I'm Kathryn." " Juliette." " Pretty name." " Thank you." " Juliette!" "We've been looking all over for you!" " Hello." " How are you?" " You look absolutely gorgeous." "Cairo suits you." " Thank you." "Thank you." " Uh, I'm sorry." "It's just hell there." "Mark couldn't get away." " He's fine?" " Yeah, of course." " We'll see you at the luncheon tomorrow." " Goodbye." " Bye." " I've been here for 6 months now and have yet to see the real thing." " Your husband works for the UN?" " Boyfriend." "And yes." "It's been a bit of a nightmare, actually." "He's been recalled four times." "Hasn't had a break in a year." " Four times." "You must be looking forward to going back home." " Sure." " They are ridiculous." "Cairo is such a mess." " So dirty." "You'd think they'd clean it up for the tourists." " I'm going back early." "It's too much for my nervous system." " I hear Helen's daughter graduated from Swarthmore." " Well, she's quite intelligent." "She's marrying the Dolbys' son this autumn." "How's that gorgeous husband of yours doing?" " Oh, sorry." "Wh" " Your husband." "How's he doing?" " Oh, good." "Thank you." " I hear it's terrible over there at the moment." "There's been some kind of outburst in one of the camps." " It's not that bad." " Well, Helen says it'll take weeks to diffuse the situation." " If the so-called ceasefire holds." " Excuse me." " You okay?" " Oh..." "Yes, I'm fine." "I just, uh... wish I could get a hold of him, of Mark." " He's all right." "You know that." " You read Arabic?" " I should be better at it." "I had an Arab lover for years." "Hey, up for an adventure?" " Sure." "Shukran." " Juliette!" "Come!" "We're being invited for lunch!" "Look, this is my friend Juliette." "Suha." " Wait, what's her name?" " Suha." " Suha." " This is like my family here." "Oh." "Shukran." "Oh, it's hot!" "Ooh!" " You wouldn't think hot tea would do the trick in heat, but you'd be wrong." "Oh!" "Tell her, uh, it's" "It's delicious." "It's delicious." "Ah!" "It's so beautiful!" "Is this, um, where you sleep?" " Yes." " Over here?" "Yes." " Oh!" "Uh, my barrette?" "Do you want this?" "Ah, this?" "That?" "Oh, wait here." "Turn around." "Turn." "If I put it up there..." " Come, have a seat." " A little house?" " Yes." "The sun..." "Oh!" "I first came here with Ali." "We had lunch with Bedouins." "It was great." "I fell in love with him when we first came here years ago." "I almost left John for him." " Really?" "Why didn't you?" " He became very possessive and demanding." "They always do." "They start out great and then, you know, it always comes out." "But he was a great lover." "You have been always with your husband, haven't you?" " Yes." " Well... you seem happy." "That's all that matters." " Tareq?" " Ms. Juliette." "How are you?" " Oh, it's so good to see you." " It's good to see you." " Have- have you been sitting here long?" " Oh, not long." "About an hour." "But now I understand why you're so desperate for good coffee." "You've caught the sun?" " I went to the White Desert." " Ah, you've been busy." " Yes." " Well, Mark has been held up." "So I decided to find out how you were." " Oh, you spoke to him?" " Not directly." "But he sent someone to contact me." " Well, I'm fine." "Thank you." " So, what would you like to do?" " Oh!" "Uh..." "Explore." " Okay." "Explore." "This is the best time of day to ride." "Yalla!" "Mark gave me this last year when I retired." " Can I see?" " Of course." " I like it." " I'll save a copy for Mark." " May I have one?" "Thank you." " Normally I don't like these new modern things but I took a photo of my mother when she was just waking up and now I love to take surprise photos of people." "The water makes you uneasy?" " I can't swim." " Really?" "But I thought everyone in the West had a swimming pool in their home." " And everyone here has 4 wives." " No, just 3 for me." " Are you married?" " No, I never married." " Really?" "No children?" " No." " How long have you known Yasmeen?" " I was a student in Aleppo and we met there." " Oh, really?" "I've always wanted to go there." " It's a beautiful city." " The center for Oriental music." " You know this." "Yes." " Of course." " I studied composition and she was a student, uh, but I didn't take it any further." " Why not?" " I was not very good." " Yasmeen is beautiful." " Yes, she is." "It was a childhood..." " Crush?" " Crush." "They say that once you have drunk the water of the Nile, you will always come back." " Here's to coming back." " It is made with sesame seed and honey." "It is very delicious." "It's very good." "I am so sorry." "No." " I like Cairo the way it was." " This was a wonderful afternoon." "Thank you." "For saving me." "Would you like to join me on the terrace?" " Thank you." " Thank you." " For what?" " I always wanted to try that." " What do you think they're smoking?" "You don't need to." "No, no, no." "Um..." "I need bobby pins." "Shukran." "Maybe I'll, um, do an article on Egyptian street children." " What was the name of your magazine again?" "Oh, shukran." "Vous." " Vous?" " Vous." " Yes, we... we deal with, uh, social issues, women's issues, that sort of thing." " And you think your readers would be interested in the plight of Egyptian street children?" " Of course, yes." "Why not?" "Many of these children are left to fend for themselves and no one seems to care." " You don't live here." "It's complicated." "Please." " Oh, it's apple." " Sure, it's very good." "That's enough." " Hello?" "Hey." "No, I just..." "I wish you'd called sooner." "I was worried." "Oh, you did?" "Oh!" "Oh, no." "I" " I was out." "With Tareq." "Yes." "We went on a Nile ride." "Yes." "Oh, it was..." "It was stunning." "Yes, I went on the water." "Oh, it was..." "It was incredible." "You can..." "Mark..." "You can see the Pyramids all over the city." "It's..." "I'll keep them for you." "I promise." "I mean..." "Wh- when are you coming?" "It's been..." "It's been- You were supposed to be..." "Okay, okay." "Okay." "Love you too." "Bye." " Bus to Gaza, 5 minutes!" "Five minutes for the bus to Gaza!" " Shukran." " Excuse me." "Do you have the time?" " Yes." "It's 2:30." " Thank you." "I like your bracelet." " Thank you." "My son gave it to me years ago." " He must me enjoying Egypt with you." " Oh, no." "He didn't come." "He's on his honeymoon in Spain." " I miss Cairo already." " Were you visiting?" " I was studying at the university and staying with my aunt." " Oh, what were you studying?" " Tour guide." " Your English is excellent." "Really." " Thank you." "Everyone here has a degree in English and Tourism." " Two degrees?" " Yeah." " You can do a lot with that." " You can't, really." "I won't graduate anyway." " Why not?" " Are you alone in Cairo?" " I was supposed to be on vacation with my husband." "He's help up in Gaza." "I'm hoping to see him." "He works for the UN." " Oh, I find them a bit useless." " He thinks so too, sometimes." " And what does he do?" " Uh, he organizes a refugee camp in Gaza." " Oh, he speaks Arabic, then." " He's become quite good, actually." " I'm very surprised you haven't visited Cairo earlier." " You know, we talked about, actually planned for it, but something always came up." "Children, work..." " Do you have a photo?" " Of my children?" "Yes." " They're pretty." " Thank you." "She's about your age, I think." " She should have come." " Ah, she's busy." "She's traveling across country." "She just graduated." " She doesn't live with you?" " Oh, no." " She's married?" " She's single at the moment." " And you still talk to her?" " Of course." " She's lucky." " What's happening?" " You'll be fine." " Oh..." " I needed to give something to a friend of mine." "He has no idea I have left." "Please, it's very personal and "complicate."" " What- what is it you want me to give him?" " Please, please!" "Please take this to him." "Please!" " Passport." "Passport." "What are you doing here?" " Uh, my husband works for the UN." " What's his name?" " Mark Laroche." " Ms. Grant, why are you here?" " My husband works for the UN in Gaza." " Yes, we know." "We have already informed his people that you are in our possession." " Is he coming?" " No." "This bus isn't going anywhere." "You got to call somebody to pick you up." "You want to stay?" " Thank you." " You're welcome." " Tareq..." " You should go to your room." "Mark will be trying to contact you." " Good morning." " Good morning." " Anything?" " There is an envelope that came for you yesterday." " Yesterday?" " Yeah, here it is." " Yesterday?" " Yesterday." " Shukran." "Hey." "Mm-hmm." "No, I'm fine." "I'm" " I'm fine." "Yeah." "No, I know." "I'm sorry." "I just" " I wanted to see you." "I thought..." "It's all right." "I understand." "Mark..." "I understand, Mark." "I understand." "So..." "You don't know when you're coming." "Okay." "Mm-hmm." "Yeah." "Okay, I guess I'll talk to you... soon." "I" " I have to" " I have to go." "I" " I have to go." "Bye." " Oh!" " I'm sorry." "I'm so sorry." " Oh, no, no." "No, it's okay." "It's okay." " Are you all right?" " Yes, oh yes." "Yes." "Yes, I'm fine." "Thank you." "Shukran." "No, I'm fine." "Your hi- hijab is- it's- it's very beautiful." " Oh, shukran." " It's..." "I'm sorry." "I'm sorry." " Ahlan, Ms. Juliette." " Ahlan." "Uh, I'm here to see Tareq." " Uh-huh." "Welcome." " Shukran." " Welcome." " Hello." "Hello." "Please." " Oh." " Sit down." " Thank you." "Hello." " Hello." " I trust, uh, you are well." " Uh, yes." "Thank you." " Will you take some coffee?" " Oh, coffee I've heard so much about." " Is- is it okay?" " Sure." "Why not." " Oh, uh," "I've interrupted your game." " I was teaching Abu Hamedi how to play." "But he doesn't like it." " I hate." " He hates it." " Um, well, uh..." "I'd love to play." " Hmm..." "Should I be worried?" " Uh, is this the queen?" "This is delicious." " You are my guest." "Please, go first." "Check." "What did they say?" " They agree things look bad for me, okay?" " Thank you." "I need your help with something." "It's a sensitive matter." " Of course." " Uh, on the bus, I sat next to a young woman who urged me to, uh, deliver this letter to her lover." " Her lover?" " Women's intuition." " It is addressed to a man." " What are you doing?" " I'm going to read it." " No, it's private." " You must understand that this letter could incriminate us." " I" " She's a young student, Tareq" " Juliette, Juliette..." " I sat next" " I talked to her for quite a while" " Underneath the facade, Cairo is still a dangerous city." " We are not" " I am not reading the letter." "I'm not reading it." " A few weeks ago, two Americans were murdered right outside that hotel." " Why were they murdered?" " Because they're American." "She's pregnant." " Yes, I know." "Hi." " Hi." "Welcome." " Hello." "Do they ever go to school?" " School here costs money." "They need to save for their weddings." " The eldest couldn't be more than 13." " Maybe." " Thank you very much for the tour and don't forget to visit us again." "Thank you." " Magdy." " Yes?" "Um..." "Jameelah wanted you to have this." " Jameelah?" "Where is she?" " Shh." "Read the letter." " That's her brother." "Don't tell him anything about her." " I hope Jameelah is all right." " This is none of our business." " I'm going to have Mark look into it." " Between you and your husband, you may yet save the entire Middle East." "We've delivered the letter." "Let them take care of their problems." "There's nothing you can do to help." "I hope you're sleeping better." " You're changing the subject." "I'm not sleeping better." " I'm sorry to hear this." " I'm beginning to like it, actually." "I'm" " I'm thinking about all the work I'm going to get done when I get back home by not wasting time sleeping." " I remember the ungodly long hours you work, the strange commutes you all do." " No, I don't do them." "I live in the city." " Yes, yes, I know, but how many hours do you work?" " Eight." "Okay..." "Twelve." "Sometimes longer, if I have deadlines." " This does not sound like a good life." " A good life?" " Here, we work until 3." "We go home, relax, maybe meet with family, and organize the evening's activities." " Well, those girls certainly don't get off at 3 and certainly don't look like they're living the good life." " This is different." " What is the difference?" " This is different." " How?" " They're not educated." " So, the carpet school doesn't offer a Ph. D." " How many carpets do you have?" "In your home?" "How many do your friends have?" "Look, Juliette, I know, I'm not blind." "Any" "Coffee?" " That'll help me sleep." " It might." "You know, tomorrow I will take the day off." " When did you decide this?" " Just now." " You can do that?" " Yes." "Of course." " But your café..." " It will survive without me." " Hi." " I did not do so well on this, uh, quiz." " Oh." "Well, this may be the lowest score ever." " This is very upsetting." " Where did you find this?" " In a British bookshop." "Well..." "It says here that, uh, not only are you not marriage material but even owning a goldfish is too much responsibility." " I'm curious, um, whether or not the article on Egyptian children should come before" ""How to keep your lipstick on all day long"" "or after "How to take your sex life to the next level."" " This is- this is a..." "very old issue." "The magazine has grown." "Let's go." " She really does have a lovely voice." " You have a good ear." " I always wanted to sing." " What stopped you?" "My voice." " I would happily go to hell if I knew that Umm Kulthum was singing there." " Why would you go to hell?" " Some Muslims believe that a woman's voice should be forbidden in public spaces." " Sounds like something a crazy husband thought up." " A crazy husband who hates his wife's voice." " Thank you." "I read it never rains in Cairo." " It never snows, either." "Actually, I quite like the rain." "It used to rain quite a bit in Damascus, in winter." " Do you miss Damascus?" " Sometimes." "Sometimes." "You know, these trees, they have a privilege to live alongside their ancestors." "Some of them are 500 years old." " And Yasmeen?" " Yasmeen?" " I told Mark we ran into her at the airport." " I see." " I didn't know she was the love of your life." " Mark exaggerates." " You should have kept in touch with her." " Absolutely not." "She was married." " She used to send you letters." " Mark..." "Traitor!" " And you never responded." "It's important to matter to someone." " I agree." " Well?" " Well, I matter to my mother, my sisters, my employees." " No, no." " No?" " It's not the same." " I hate agreeing with you." " Mm-hmm." "She's single now." " She's a widow." "It would be disrespectful to her daughter." " I'm sure her daughter wants her to be happy." " She's happy!" " Happier." " Juliette, here we believe in fate." " What is your fate, Tareq?" "What?" " I like the way you say my name, Tareq." ""Hi, Tareq."" "She broke my heart." " What happened?" " She married." "It's nothing." " She seemed very happy to see you." " She is Christian Armenian." "I am Muslim." "It is totally forbidden." " Let's go to the wedding." "I love weddings and I've always wanted to visit Alexandria." " You know the library burned down?" " Really?" " You'd be surprised how many people ask me this." " Good night." " Good night." "Oh." "This is nice." " It seems like you are getting used to the way of life here." " Maybe I'll stay." " Stay." " Rent an apartment." "Buy a water pipe." " We have created a monster!" "I was watching television last night and they said this phrase, and it made me laugh!" " I can't imagine you watching TV." " Oh, I do." "Late, at night." "If I can't sleep." "What?" " I'm trying to imagine what I'd do on my first day of living in Cairo." " And?" " Open a female-only café." "Yasmeen!" "Welcome, Juliette." "Mahabba." " Mahabba." " When Hanan told me you were coming, I couldn't believe it." "Wallah." " You look lovely." " Ah, shukran." " And this is beautiful." " Let's get out of the scorching sun." "Please, come inside." " Thank you." " Tareq... do you still like dates?" " Of course. - Wallah." " Wallah." " My daughter picked this dress for me." "I wanted something more casual but she wouldn't even... she wouldn't even..." " Consider it." " Oh, my English is so bad!" " No." "No, it's not." "It's not." " Oh, you're really nice." "Please, sit down." " Oh, thank you." " I've been thinking so much since my daughter became engaged." " My son was first to marry." "He eloped." " Eloped?" " He married without telling his mother." " Did you disown him?" " Oh, I wanted to." "I..." "Oh, no." "No, no, no." "No, no, no, no." "Of course not." "No, no." " You must really have been upset." " I remember feeling very strange." "Like he didn't belong to me anymore." " I was beginning to wonder where you were." " I was congratulating the young bride." " Yes." "She looks very much in love." " I never... thought my trip would turn out like this." " Yeah, absolutely." "Mark has had such difficulty." " I'm going to miss you when I go back home." "And since I know you're not fond of writing back..." " I'm terrible at writing letters and e-mails and texts." "But in your case, I may make an" " And I'm bad with phones." "I hate talking on the phone." " So I suppose we are destined to, uh, never see each other again." " Yes, I..." "I guess so." "Well then, I will miss you." " I'll miss you." "Here we go." "You know, a wedding in Egypt is not a wedding without dancing." " Well, it's the reason I wanted to come." "Would you like to come upstairs for some tea?" " Yes." "Let's go." " Mark!" "When did you arrive?" " About an hour ago." "Tareq." "How can I ever thank you?" " It was an honor." " How are your sisters, your mother?" "I miss their cooking." " They are well, thank you." "And they miss you." " It's good to see you again." "Hasn't been the same." " Indeed." " Tareq." "Join us for coffee on the terrace." " I fear the terrace is closed." "And my rebellious employees are in need of me." "But please, come around anytime for coffee." "Ms. Juliette." "It was a pleasure." " Thank you." " I don't know if we can go to all three of them." "Maybe." "Maybe we ought to go to only one of them." " Can you, uh, turn that up, please?" "Uh, up?" "Uh..." "Uh, no." "Shukran." " I missed you too." " Got a cartouche?" "Is it my name?" "Oh, it's fantastic!" " I'm happy I waited."