" What's wrong?" " I'm just tired." "Have you travelled far?" "Yeah." "You're a surfer, aren't you?" "Yeah, I'm a surfer." "I always wanted to try that." "It seems like it wouId be so much fun." "Yeah, it can be." "It depends." " On what?" " On if you make it your whole life." "Have you?" "I guess ..." "What if I told you there's a wave out there,   and when it hits a little island off Mexico, it will be massive." "And all I can think about is riding it." "Kick his ass!" " Take this, Mickey." " I have him right where I want him." "Kick his ass." " How much did we bet?" " If we lose, we don't eat." "I'm gonna kick your butt!" "A little hot sauce will fix this guy." "You enjoying your visit to bail?" "Jet lag's got me down, but I'II get used to it." "As soon as we can, we're going to move the car." "If I understood what you're saying, it wouId help." "Hey, nice to see you, man." "tell him, nice to see him." "No problem." "These guys are friends of mine." "Guys, how's it, man?" "How are you doing?" "Good to see you." "Good to see you, man." "It's been a Iong time." "I've got to get back in shape." "It's been a Iong summer." " I believe these belong to you?" " Keep them." "You never know when you might need them." " Who are you?" " Just a fan." "I was hoping I couId train with you guys." "Very few surfers have the courage and skill to ride really big waves." "And here, in a marketplace in Bali, on the other side of the world,   he was about to become one of them." "Some mornings I wake up and ask myself,   "Will I die today?" You never know when you'll go." "If something goes wrong, the jet ski is your only salvation." "Jet skis, ropes!" "You've got equipment on the brain." "In Hawaii, I'II paddle into those 40-footers with my bare hands." "You can't paddle." "It's too big." " It's just a wave, man." " It's too fast." " You can't paddle 35 mph." " Horse shit!" "It's just a wave, man." "You've got to be in the right place at the right time." " Dream on." " Are you towing me in?" "You, no problem." "As for him ... no way." " And just why the hell not?" " Because you're crazy." "Thank you, Keoni." "I Iove you, too." "But I will tell you one thing." "For us, the partying's over." "Starting tomorrow, we train." "AII day, every day." "That's reality." "There are two types of surfers to watch when surfing dangerous waves." "One is gung ho." "He doesn't consider the risks." "The other is gun shy." "He doesn't want to accept the risks." "In this "cage" here, one focusses on his abilities,   and the other, on his limitations." "Pete, what is the worst-case scenario you can think of?" "The worst thing I can see is if someone goes down,   and gets held under, and the rescue team can't find him." "Rush, what is the worst-case scenario?" "If you let go of the rope too soon, and you lose speed   and the wave comes from behind and gobbles you up." "Shane?" "I think the worst thing would be to get sucked over the falls   and lose all your air on impact, and get sucked down. 30 or 40 feet." "And it's getting darker and darker, and all the clouds surrounding you." "Like you're just about to black out, and it's really loud and dark ..." "I think that'd be a really bad scenario." " How long have you lived here?" " Forever." "I came for the surf." "I couldn't see leaving." "I travel, but I always come back." " Are you a writer?" " Yeah." "Got a wife?" " Kids?" " Yeah, three." "girls." " They surf." " Of course." "The Navy's got things called "rebreathers"." "It fits in your mouth and pulls oxygen from the water." "It won't be long till we stay down indefinitely." "Rebreathers, my ass!" "You sound like astronauts." "You guys don't tow me in, I'm gonna paddle in." "You don't think I can?" "I was number two in the world." " That was eight years ago." " Eight long years, bro." "Eight years!" "Eight years!" "Eight years, my ass!" "Eight years, eight years, eight years ..." "You understand, we can augment our abilities through technology,   but technology isn't everything." "You need speed and strength." "You must be quick and agile to fly, and flexible, to reduce injury." "With big waves, you can be held under for more than one wave." "You could be held under for two waves." "You could even be held under for three waves." "We understand the risks in what we're up against." "We know exactly what our bodies are able to do." "We practise extreme safety when we're doing extreme things." "Technology brings surfing to another dimension,   allowing a rider to match the speed of a 50-foot wave at 35 mph." "But the question is, at what price?" "When only the most skilled can survive,   to ride waves this big is to put yourself in God's hands." " What's the matter?" "Side pain?" " I can't breathe." " What's up?" " Take a deep breath." "Breathe." "relax, relax ..." "Okay, Iet's walk him home." "He's burning up." " Maybe malaria ..." " I'II be fine." "No matter what, no hospitals, okay?" "Because I hate doctors." "One time my mom had a skin disease ..." "It got really infected and we had to take her to hospital." "A stupid doctor gave her all the wrong things." "Ruined her teeth, ruined her hair ..." "He made her look old." "My dad freaked." "He drove his truck right through the doc's living room." "Right through the picture window." "You'II be okay." "You're strong." "The strongest man on earth." " What is this place?" " My home." "There's a rock concert once a year." "We get invaded for three days." "Daddy, Daddy!" "Hi, girls." "I've missed you so much." "Hi ..." "Look how big you are!" "Oh God, I missed you." "Wyatt!" "I'm not gonna die or anything, man!" "I've just got a temperature." "help me get him to my house." "Serena's with him." "I hope it's not malaria." "Welcome, travellers." "Time to rock." "Remember you're guests in another people's land, so listen up!" "There's trash cans and port-a-potties galore." "Use them." "If you choose to partake, then for heaven's sake be discreet." "This is for you, and this is for you." " Why aren't you with your friends?" " Too many people." "I know what you mean." "Come on, I want to show you something." "AII over the world, people are returning to their tribes." "You may not realise it, but you and your friends are a tribe." "It's a tribe built on mutual respect and a common understanding   of what it takes to do what we do." " I never really saw it that way." " What about riding the big waves?" " Are you frightened of them?" " Yeah." "What about using a jet ski to help you get in?" "That's one way ..." "Mickey thinks you can paddle into them." "He hates jet skis." " He says it takes the purity away." " What do you think?" "I haven't really made my mind up yet." "It's morning." "The night is over." "Hey, you okay?" "Rough night, huh?" "The guys are training." "I've got to get out there." "They'II take care of you." "Need anything?" " Come on, Mickey, focus!" " I got it." "Wait for the wind." "Perfect!" "Faster, faster!" "This is wrong." "I got it, I got it." "As I watched them train today, I was filled with sadness." "So many people aspire to greatness, so few succeed." "I could see the separation happening before my eyes." "Hawaii's big waves await them." "A challenge to one, a threat to the other." "It will get worse before it gets better." "I wish there was more I couId do." "You could talk to me." "I Iike it when you talk to me." " Did you see me out there today?" " I heard it was brutal." " That's my point exactly." " Shane got it." "You'II get it." "It takes time." "You were number two in the world." "Yeah ..." "I was." "We heard that in Hawaii there's a huge swell coming in." "We have to go." " We get one shot at one this big." " We have to wait here for the kid." " We'II pick it up again there." " I hope we get there for the swell." " See you later." " Take care of the kid." " He ain't coming in, you know." " I know." "He's preparing to surf big waves all his life,   but he'd never leave the kid behind." "He's got a strange way of showing his feelings." "You'II get used to it." "To all my friends, good evening!" "Brothers and sisters, I'm glad to see you at our musical carnival." "I want you to give it up for "Scorn"." "I want to be just like you." "Shut up!" "Shut up!" "Shut up!" "Let me go." "It's okay." "You'II be okay." "You'II be okay, it's over." "Keoni's not getting any better." "I'm taking him home." "I'II get him to a doctor." "I knew when I came with you, it wouldn't be forever." "My father's boat's coming back soon." "I miss him." "Shane ..." "It's been a beautiful journey." "I Iove you." "Hawaiian sea and weather forecast." "Small craft, stage five alert." "I'm ready." "The fever's gone, Iet's go!" "My point exactly." "Does Serena know what I did?" "The fire, and all?" "Yeah." "Was she mad?" "No, she wasn't mad." "I really liked her." " They beat us here." " Of course." "They left first." " Who's the guy in the baseball cap?" " That's the Wizard." "Mike Stewart." "The only guy with guts enough to ride this place on a body-board." "It'II be here by morning." " How big?" " Big." "No hard feelings, but ..." "We took a vote." "I'm not towing you in." " I'II be there just the same." " I'm not towing you in." "Yeah, I know." "You voted." " Merry Christmas, Darrick." " Merry MaIikimaka to you, too." "Looks like the kid's feeling better." "She gave me her number and her eyes were as big as the moon ..." "I'm going to be in her arms tonight ..." "What's going on?" " Stay out of this!" " What's wrong with you?" "Shut up!" "You've been told." "So you ride a big one tomorrow." "What's it going to prove?" "I've never tried to prove anything." "Go on the pro tour, make some money, before it's too late." " cool down." " Shut up!" "You lose that step, and it's gone." "And it ain't coming back." "You're going to burn out." "people burn out." "I'm paddling into one of those bombs tomorrow." "I know you are." " I hate the stink of jet skis." " I know you do." "You think I'm nuts, don't you?" "It can be done, you know." "I know it can." "You've just got to catch it right." "Are you ever going to tell me what's on your mind?" "Are you ever going to tell anybody what's on your mind?" "Jesus ..." "I'm treating you Iike a chick." "Line up with the palm tree on the cliff." "Sit deep." "The wind will be like nothing you ever felt." "This wave's an animal." "Imagine 50-60 swimming pools converging on this reef shelf." "It's 30 feet when it breaks, then shaIIows to about 1 5 feet." "So there's a Iot of force there." "You're out first." "Run with it a while outside." "I got the power for 40-50 mph." "I know it'II seem like a Iong time, but wait for the whip." " Where's Mickey?" " Don't worry, he'II be here." "The waves come from the north-west at about 350 degrees." "They surge right over the shelf." "So if you make it past the initial intense impact,   the current should take you to the channel." " You hold your breath for 80 yards." " So it's a Mach ten express." "If a guy wipes out on the inside corner and gets dragged under,   he'II be spat out on the shore." "The current runs parallel to it." "So watch the inside section, it can wash you onto the rocks." "What's Mickey doing out here?" "Just make sure he stays out of the way." "Shane's up!" "So I take off from a 30-foot wave, impact the water,   and hit the bottom, which is about 40 feet deep, on jagged coral." " And hopefully survive and get in?" " It's possible." "I was pinned to the bottom." "I couldn't get up." "I counted 21 seconds before I pushed off the bottom." "I saw a blue spot and went through, and I made it." " kyle, do something." " Mayday." "We've got a man down." "Okay, we've got a visual." "Let's go." "High speed pick-up." " Okay, we've got him on board." " Okay boys, go back out." " What do you want to do?" " Go again." " Are you sure?" " I'm sure." "That's the biggest wave I ever saw." "You're up." "Grab the rope, I'II tow you in." "I can't." "I'm scared, man." "Everybody's scared." "I'm really scared." "What do you want to do?" "How can I face that kid again?" "How can I face anybody again?" "It doesn't matter." "You just had a bad day." "Let it go." "tell the kid I'm cool." "That I'm waiting for the right one." "I know you could, Mickey." "It can be done, you know." "You can paddle into these waves." "You could do it." " What's going on?" " He's waiting for the right one." "Jesus, Mary and Joseph!" "Mickey!" " Mickey, no!" " We've got a man down!" "Go, go!" "Do something!" "Get him!" "He's not coming up!" "The big waves of Hawaii ..." "until we ride, we're just men waiting for a train." "Mickey was right." "I hate the sound of those damn jet skis." "Me, too." "My son, you're home." "I Iove you." "I'm so sorry, Mrs. McCormack." "I'm so sorry." "What would you say if I told you there's a wave out there,   and by the time it hits an island off Mexico, it will be massive?" "And all I can think about is riding it." "Then what?" "My point exactly." "What's so funny?" "Have you ever had a friend   who makes you smile just by thinking about him?" "No." "That's too bad." "The waves are very big." "The rocks are very dangerous." "Thank you." "So you want to surf." "And the waves where you live aren't half bad." "And then you hear about this wave in a far-away country,   whose name you can't even pronounce." "What then?" "How far are you willing to go?" "What sacrifice are you willing to make?" "How good do you really want to be?"