"We will never grow up." "This is Neverland." "Surf is Neverland." "You could be 70, but you'll be 10." "In a place like this, you'll be 5." "So we'll never grow up." "Never." ""SURF ADVENTURES - THE MOVIE"" "This is an endless adventure, man." "You're in Europe, then in Australia, then in Hawaii... then in a place you've never been to... searching for waves around the world." "This is what surfing is all about." "Searching for the perfect wave." "Always that adrenaline. "Wow, I'll surf a new wave, or..."" ""that perfect wave I surfed last year." "Now it could be even better."" "You dream of surfing other waves across the world." "Better yet, waves that remain unridden, and... we only see in illustrations or magazines... and say:" ""Wow, what a perfect wave."" ""Will I ever ride it by myself, or with my buddies?"" "Waves we only saw in movies, as kids." "Barrels with Kelly Slater..." "Tom Carroll..." "Guys surfing barrels... at dreamspots we never thought we'd ever get to know... and have always dreamed of surfing." "After the trip of your life, you'll want an even better one... an even nicer moment." "So the search never ends." "Never ever." "If you say you're content, you're dead." "I'm Fábio Gouveia." "I'll introduce you to Fernando de Noronha... one of the world's most beautiful places." "Ifirst came to Noronha when i was 18 and felling love withit." "It was classic." "When ever icome here, i have a blast." "To me,Fernando de Noronha is Paradise." "Here, there are all sorts of waves:" "rights, lefts, point breaks, beach breaks." "What else could i ask for?" "This is a killer beach, man." "Beautiful!" "I've been across the world and this is one of the nicest beaches." "It 's a powerful wave." "It hits that rock, then peaks inside." "It 's a fast drop." "I love it." "We're a great team here in Noronha." "There's Pedro Müller, our 'Eagle.'" "My fellow-citizen, Eduardo Fernandes." "The World Pro Junior Champ Pedro Henrique, who... will challenge foreign surfers in the years to come." "The famous 'Macaco', our friend Guilherme Gross." "Cacimba can be quite dangerous... despite its sand bottom... cause there's a rock shelf under neath." "It often sticks out,so with a wave this powerful... if you fall off the lip, you'll smash your head." "So this is not a break for everyone." "Binho Nunes, with his red hair, is a real show man." "Phil is one of the world's top long boarders... who keeps innovating with his guns." "Women's surf has come along ways." "Girls are surfing better and better." "Andréa Lopes is one of country's top women surfers." "She'll leave a lot of guys flabber gasted." "Frankly, I've never been prejudiced against." "On the contrary." "I'm often the only girl in the line-up, paddling with the guys... but with a little charm, like:" "'Please, give me that one'... in a girlytone, i get the wave." "I also see many girls who... take up bodyboarding,but soon turn to surfing." "There's an increasing number of girls surfing." "After they stand up on a board, they won't want to bodyboard anymore." "I'm Rato Fernandes from the bad lands, 'caatinga'" "Here i am having some fish at Cacimba" "5 feet of torso, 4 inches of legs:" "Pit Patolinha." "Benigni, from Life is Beautiful." "Thanks." "Benigni, star of Life is Beautiful." "Fábio Gouveia." "That guy?" "Rajzman woman." "Phil Rajzman woman." "This is our drag queen ." "Check out his hair." "PORTO BEACH" "This is such a great trip that even the rarest Noronha point broke:" "Porto's left hander." "It breaks only in giant swells, with perfect sessions." "If i hadn't been into surfing, I'd be totally lost in the world." "I wouldn't be a shappy as i am today." "I just came from Hawaii." "I thought I was happy there." "I'm 10 times happier here." "Wonderful, beautiful, inspiring..." "An adventure!" "Hanging out on a beach all day... then eating a fish barbecue with your mates... seems almost surreal compared to what is going on around the world." "So many wars, so many fights and conflicts... and here we are, living in a world apart... removed from that harsh daily reality." "I feel I am a privileged guy." "To me, this is God's blessing." "Being free, on a beautiful beach... surfing with my buddies all day long." "It's a dream." "Teco's gone after our lost luggage." "Almost all is set up for yet another surf adventure." "I'm Danylo Moraes, but people call me Grillo." "I'm 19." "Well..." "that 's it." "We got to carry all this." "From Brazil to Indonesia... it's a four-day trip." "One plane trip somewhere... another 15-hour flight somewhere else... then another 5-hour flight to God-knows-where... another 2-hour flight somewhere else." "Then, a boat trip somewhere... and, 5 days later, you arrive at your destination... exhausted." "Completely worn out." "I'm Flávio Padaratz, but they call me Teco." "I've been a professional surfer for 15 years..." "No, 12." "I'm Guilherme Gross, and i'm 29." "I was born in Rio de Janeiro." "I've surfed since i was 13." "I'm from Recreio, and lived there until i was7." "Then i moved to Leblon... where I've lived ever since, close to Caneco 70." "I'm Vitor Ribas." "I'm a surfer from the city of Cabo Frio." "I started surfing at Forte Beach, at 12." "SIPORA ISLAND" "When ever you get here, it's always like your first time." "Always that adrenaline rush:" ""I'll surf a new wave, or..."" ""that perfect wave I surfed last year." "Now it could be even better."" "A nearth quake has killed 58 in the Island of Sumatra, Indonesia." "The 7.9-quake on the Richter Scale... was followed by a series of after shocks." "I opened my door, Danilo was..." "Desperate." "This guy here told me to run." " I said, "Run, run!" -"Fire exit, fire exit!"" ""No elevators!"" "I said: "Which way then, brother?"" "My bed started to shake." "I said: "What the heck?" "!"" "My bed was shaking badly." "I said: "What 's going on?" There was a hideous noise." "Teco also woke up." "We looked at each other... and ran out." "I opened the door... to the hallway and saw nobody there." "Then I saw man staring at me, and everyone came out." ""Where's the stairs?" "Go to the elevator."" ""No, the elevator will fall."" ""Where's the fire exit?" Teco kept pushing me." ""Focus on the stairs, focus on the stairs..."" "The hotel was shaking and everyone was screaming." "We finally came out in the lobby... and someone cried:" ""Check out the chandelier!"" "It looked like aviking ship ride from a theme park..." "like this." "Seeing that, I ran even faster... out of the building." "The ground, the street lights... the poles and wires shaking, and people outside staring at us." "We looked stupid in our pajamas, and briefs, man." "We were cracking up... but, at its epicenter, the quake measured 7.9 on the Richter scale." "We were laughing, but many died." "It was awful." "It was the scariest moment of my whole life." "We should pray and thank God." "Even if we pray in silence." "I pray in silence, man." "Let 's make a silent prayer." "Should I do it?" "Yeah." "Pray in our name." "Thank you, God, for this food we're about to eat." "In the name of Jesus, amen." "Thanks." "A blessing for this meal." "One potato for me there, please." "In the name of barrels, amen." "It was going so well..." "It was going great, Danilo." "Till he messed it up." "Bullshit." "Barrels are part of..." "Religion?" "Divine things." "Tubes are inexplicable things." "Tubes are the reason I surf." "The best feeling in the world is catching a really big tube." "You spread your arms and come out with the spray." "It 's our strongest motivation for surfing." "Inside a tube, you're a part of it, not aseparate thing." "The way you paddle into awave... influences how you'll pull into a tube, and ride the wave." "So you have to be in total harmony." "It's the most magical moment, when you're one with nature." "I like to stay as long as I can in those barrels." "I like to pull in deep, the deeper the better... and stay there, enjoying the view." "That's why i'm always in there, breathing, watching everything... in their tiniest details, from within." "Their colors, how barrels differ from one another." "This place is every surfer's dream." "As a kid, I used to dream of places like this... and catching killer waves with by buddies." "This is the stuff we used to draw in our notebooks as kids." "I'd get bored in History class and... draw an island, palm trees... and the perfect wave breaking on a reef." "Just like that one, breaking over there." "Don't racers test Formula One cars?" "They test different cars in perfect tracks... and they rip!" "We come here and it 's the same." "We test different fins... and boards with various tail designs, with or without channels." "And we also rip, and forget all else." "You ride at a speed here you won't ride anywhere else." "You shred the waves on a short board." "Perfect waves coming at you." "You do what every ou want, a different way every single time." "You get barreled, then you slice it." "You can train your maneuvers... 10 waves in a row, the same maneuver." "This is a high-performance wave." "You can step on the gas, cause it will spare you." "And you'll get to try again." "If you fall, you go back out, and catch an identical wave." "This is the most perfect surf spot I've ever seen." "The sky looks wonderful." "It 's all lavender." "Check it out!" "It 's lavender, man." "Nine hours of surf." "There's few places... across the planet where you'll enjoy a week... surfing killer waves with friends." "Look!" "There comes a perfect series." "Perfect!" "Back there." "Check out that tube!" "Awesome!" "Now I look like a heartthrob." "What a hunk!" "I'm sorry for you guys." "He's going to a night club." "Honestly..." "I shaved only for Macarrones' waves." "PAGAI UTARA ISLAND" "I'll tell you, man." "My girlfriend once asked:" ""What 's your biggest dream?"" "I said: "Surfing Indonesia's perfect waves with my friends."" "'Hanging out in Mentawai...' and surfing only killer waves.'" "She said: "You're so going!" I said: "I am?" "How come?"" "'Rick just called." "You're going to Mentawai to shoot a movie.'" "I said: "No way." "I don't believe it." "Really?"" "And up to the day we left, I still couldn't believe it." "I kept saying: "Is this for real?" "I'm in!" I was stoked." "When i got here in Macarrones' line-up, i said:" ""My dream came true." This is a dream." "Indonesia is a dream come true for me." "Check it out." "It 's a painting, isn't it?" "!" "Way!" "It 's a painting for your..." "A gigantic painting." "...living room." "Look!" "Look there." "Those lines..." "SIBERUT ISLAND" "Look behind it." "The one behind it!" "Check out that one peeling off." "Check out that barrel." "No way!" "Look at that session." "If you don't surf for 1day, the next you're dying to surf." "Like yesterday." "We didn't surf, sailing all day." "The captain wouldn't give us the dinghy." "We snatched it... to checkout the waves." "And they were perfect!" "Palm tree sin the back,green waters." "A painting!" "I said: 'l'm tripping." "This left hander is so perfect.'" "And the guys came back, screaming: 'Uhuu." "Awesome!"" "It was gnarly." "We had surfed many days of great swells... but all it took was one look at a perfect, different wave... to make us crave for more surf." "Someone almost lost his board." "Got to keep cool now." "Press "auto."" "Harder." "No." "There!" "There's a silver thingy there." "That 's it!" "I'm stoked I got to come here with you guys... and show you this place, which, I think, is the most... beautiful place I've ever seen." "I wanted you all to see it, too." "It 's paradise, huh?" "What a paradise!" "Better not take anything." "Leave it all here, right?" "I wanted some shells, but... they belong in this paradise." "This is where they belong." "From Mentawai, lended up going straight to South Africa... for another leg of the World ChampionshipTour." "Experiencing S. Africa is great... cause we get incontact with nature... and there's killer, perfect waves." "The WCT is the 'GrandSlam' of surfing." "Only the top-44 surfers in the ranking can compete." "This is my work environment, actually." "I am a professional surfer." "These are my work colleagues." "This is my office, so to speak." "I got lucky that wave came in at the very end." "I saw the series coming in... and had faith in it." "Simply had faith in it." "I love testing myself, competing, paddle by paddle... the head rush before a heat, the butterflies in my stomach." "It 's what I like the most in life." "It 's what keeps me alive." "I know i should start preparing myself for, in a few years, I'll miss all this." "I kept telling myself, "Easy, easy!"" ""Wait till the last second." -"Easy, bro." "Your wave will come in."" "And I waited, saying: "God, it will come in, I know."" "I was cool, and prayed for that wave to come in indeed." "How about your first wave, man?" "Awesome, huh?" "It was killer!" "The other guy sat out." "I snapped, pulled into a tube, then another." "Just like Matinhos in Winter." "Behind the rocks." "Yeah." "Matinhos behind the rocks." "No shit." "A rock bottom, a dangerous wave very fast, shooting you forward." "Always at top speed." "It's a very long wave, of an amazing length." "You got to be in top shape." "Besides being practically a picture-perfect wave... the water is freezing." "So that sort of messes with our maneuverability." "Every surfer who's seen these waves in photos or movies... dreams of surfing them, cause they are just awesome." "Super Magnum, Magnus Tubes." "Then Super Tubes, then Impossible, then that little beach." "Some say Picuruta's surfed all the way down there." "I doubt it." "I've connected awave from the outside all the way down there." "Few people have done it in the history of Jeffrey's Bay." "I made my way back on foot, quite a stretch... talking to myself." "I couldn't believe what I'd done." "There's no channel to paddle out?" "Not even a little channel?" "No rock channel?" "It 's all a big rock channel, with waves breaking on it." "This is no piece of cake." "But that 's normal." "At worst, you could get a few scratches." "With the cold, you won't even feel it." "Brazilian Pro Surfers are known and respected worldwide." "For one of them to become a WorldChampion... it's only a matter of time, I'd say." "Since today is our day off.... we thought we'd have some fun in town." "We're gonna go bungy jumping." "We'll see "Bronquinho" jump from over 650 feet." "It 's an adrenaline rush." "It 's the first time ever...a" "I'll jump." "Some say it 's the highest in the world." "I'm stoked." "Jeffrey's Bay it was flat, so..." "Renan psyched us all up." "I'll jump, cause I've parachuted before." "It 's cool, exciting." "Let 's feel that rush." "Great!" "Awesome!" "One of the best things in the world." "My head's spinning." "I flapped my arms like wings to fly longer." "I'm not a bird, but I'm stoked!" "e" "It 's like dropping on a giant endless wave." "It's 700 feet, the highest bungy jumpingin the world." "Now I can't believe I did that." "It 's unforgettable." "It 's fucking freezing." "It so cold it hurts." "From up here, I'd say: 'That's not ridable." "Impossible.'" "'Yeah, there are waves on top of all that kelp.' 'lt's a beautiful place, but surf?" "!"" "'Never.'" "In ever thought I'd find a place so unusual." "After being all around the world, you find... a place that 's even crazier than all the spots I've ever surfed." "Looks like another world." "If there were surfing Mars, it'd be like this." "I'm cool." "I'm in the finals." "I can't wait to call my girl, my manager, my mom." "I've got to concentrate on the final now." "I hope it 's against Teco Padaratz." "He's at the semis now." "Two Brazilians in Jeffrey's Bay would be wild." "It seemed like a good wall... but it closed out way too fast." "Then, it was over." "Nobody got a series such as the one he got now in his last wave." "It happens." "A heat is a heat.y" "That 's cool." "Let 's root for Peterson now." "I'm ok, but bummed I couldn't show all I know." "I caught much better waves in my heats before the final." "But I'm fine." "On to the next one!" "Competing is how i show my parents... managers,doctors, in short... all Brazilians, that surf is a quality sport." "That surfers are not drug addicts, and beach bums." "That 's why I started competing: to prove I could make a living with it." "Surfing is as good a profession as being a doctor... or a great lawyer." "We make as much as them." ""Meanwhile, in the Hall of Justice..."" ""our super-hero, Peterson Rosa, struggles with the champagne."" "Am I doing it right?" "Yeah." "Try harder." "It 's coming along.o" "Me again." "Man, the cork won't pop up." "C'mon..." "C'mon...o" "Alleluia!" "In terms of quality, variety of waves, and... swell sizes, there's no place like the Hawaiian North Shore." "For those who value natural beauty and nice beaches with great waves... this is it." "It 's important for any surfer who... really digs waves:" "the North Shore." "Hawaii is synonymous with total adrenaline." "I've dreamed of this place since when I used call Pipeline, "Peeplynne."" "Hawaii is surf's temple." "Sunset, Pipeline..." "So when I first surfed Pipeline it was not awave." "It was a name in my head." "Pipeline, wow!" "It would freak me out." "I like to say Pipeline is my karma... cause it 's hard to train here with the crowd and it 's a truly scary wave." "Hawaii is scary." "I always get an adrenaline rush." "I know I'll have to go beyond my limits." "I know the swell is gonna go off, and... it will be 10-foot overhead in the impact zone." "I get insomnia when the ocean roarslouder... when the forecast is: "High Surf Advisory." It 's sheer adrenaline." "I start to get anxious 3, 4 days before a giant swell." "I psyche myself up, so I won't claim to be sick, or... to have an injured ankle, or leg, or a headache." "I prepare myself ahead for that day so I'll drop... in those monsters with the best gear." "You get anxious to go on the dawn patrol to test the water." "It 's kind of complicated." "To most surfers, the eve of a big swell... is more complicated and way more tense... than the very day the surf's up." "Fear is constant." "I totally admit I am afraid." "But fear nourishes me." "I like it." "Big surf is scary to everyone." "It 's like... driving a fast car." "Everybody's afraid, but goes ahead." "Sure I'm afraid." "Everybody is." "If you say you're not, you're lying." "Some people feel less fear... or have learned to appease it." "I'm apprehensive something might happen... but I'm not afraid." "Or I wouldn't even go out." "The first year I moved here, I learned a good Hawaiian lesson." "I woke up one day, before buoy reports, and the lnternet." "We had to check out the waves, and the wind." "I said: 'Pipeline must be going off today.'" "I was a kid, excited, but scared to death." "After beingin the water for 1 hour, I got nervous, and said:" "'l'll catch the next wave that comesin.'" "All I remember is paddling, taking off, and then coming to later." "I must 've hit my head so hard all went blank." "Then I came to underwater... but I was lucky I didn't swallow any water." "My head was swollen, my whole body was bruised." "I hit the bottom, for sure." "I dropped in on awave, but on the inside... my nose sank." "I fell, shoulder first... then hit my head on the bottom like I'd never had." "My helmet cracked." "I said: 'Thank God i wore a helmet." "It saved my life.'" "I could have fainted." "I smashed my head." "Those are 10, 12-footers... over a depth of 1,5 feet, 3 feet tops." "It 's risky." "A rock bottom of volcanic lava." "It sucks to fall off the lip head first in the coral." "Many have died out there." "People who challenged it... and didn't make it." "I'm a cleaning lady." "The deal is: women cook... and we guys do the cleaning." "We get to eat like pigs, and stuff our faces... and then we burn off the calories, right?" "Life is very practical here." "Everything is practical, carpeted, and stuff." "In NE Brazil, this would give you rashes, make you sneeze." "But here it 's very practical." "Where are the chickens?" "I don't see the chicken." "We never leave home without having 5 shakes." "Ifit's well-made..." "It's our staple food." "It 's a mix of bananas, strawberries, peaches..." "Powder milk." "Granola..." "Honey..." "Potatoes to boost it." "Here in America, there's dehydrated potato puree." "You don't have to peel them." "Just mix the powder with milk and water." "It 's carbohydrates in powder." "This is "Little Shoe", our car." "It 's the #1 car in the N. Shore." "It 's got no keys." "The only way to start it... is this battery switch here." "Then we push it, and jump start it." "It 's all automatic." "Everything works... except it 's got no keys, the trunk won't open... and you can't lock it." "We can't leave valuables inside... and that window is broken." "Other than that, it 's 100%." "LITTLE SHOE COST US$ 1OO" "At the buoy, the swell is already 16 feet, 17 seconds... but out front it is still small." "Let 's see the conditions here, and later this evening... we might catch some 18-footers." "The adrenaline is way up there." "It 's been hard to sleep." "Especially with the size of this new swell." "A 1O-SCORE WAVE This year we went to Tahiti... and Fidji." "But even surfing big waves... at those places, we kept thinking of Hawaii... cause we think of Hawaii all year long." "The closerit gets, the faster our hearts start beating." "Now you'll get to know one of the world's most dangerous waves." "The air temperature is freezing, and so is the water." "You surf with huge guns, paddling out is tough... in mushy waters, and lots of rocks." "Jeff Clark is a pioneer here at Mavericks." "He's fearless." "The most respected local surfer." "Wipeouts?" "The best you can do is relax... to save as much energy as possible." "If you panic,you waste more energy and oxygen, and you're screwed." "So relax and enjoy that moment." "You've got to enjoy being a big rider." "You feel like a pair of socks in awasher." "That 's the feeling you get, kinda." "45 FEET PLUS" "From the channel, it looked tough." "In the line-up, when i spotted the first wave, i was shocked." "The ratio between the surfer's and wave height wasreally... really abyssal." "It was unbelievable." "I'd never seen anything like it." "15-meterwaves,some 45-footers." "That day was impressive." "I live to surf." "I can't stay out of the water." "I've got to surf." "One week without surfing, and I get nuts." "Nothings works right." "I can't think straight.." "So I need to surf." "When you come out of the water... you feel good, zen-like." "Your mind clears up." "You can do anything after surfing." "I want to give back to the sport of surfing... everything it 's given me:" "happiness... financial security... peace." "Everything." "I don't consider myself financially rich... but one of the world's wealthiest guys... in terms of fun level." "I've enjoyed my life fully so far." "I'm enjoying it, and hope to enjoy it much more, for sure." "I never thought I'd be here today... in this place, with my buddies, searching for the perfect wave." "It 's a dream come true." "Weird, huh?" "My friends took awrong turn in life." "They didn't have many incentives." "They dropped out of school..." "it was tough." "I could have ended up like them... on the wrong side of the tracks." "But surfing has saved my life." "I'll surf until I'm physically able... to stand up on a board, cause that 's the soul of my business... and I have to surf to survive." "So..." "God grant I surf for a long time." "Surfing is everything to me, man." "It 's my religion." "I want to die surfing..." "like so many the sea has claimed while they were surfing." "When I'm old, with a cane, I hope to still be able to do it." "Even if I have to surf straight to the beach." "Standing up on a board rules." "Riding waves is the nicest thing in the world." "So we're out in the street, thinking it 's over... and I heard:" ""No, it 'll start again."" ""Let 's go back in for our money, and passports..."" "we left in our rooms." So we went back in... took the elevator to the fifth floor, then I said:" ""Teco, it 's shaking." He said: "Relax, it is not."" "I said: "Look, the window's shaking."" "Vitinho said: "Relax, it 's only the wind."" ""The wind?" I said." "Then I touched the ceiling." "I meant to tell Teco to run out... but he'd already left." "I followed him, then everybody ran out again.... down the fire exit again." "The chandelier was doing the very same thing as before." "I freaked out again." "That could not be happening." "Me going back in, that thing falling onto my head." "It almost happened." "Had the quake been stronger, we'd have been doomed."